In more recent times, the orientation seems to be "replace" rather than seek to adjust. This IS presuming that the reman gear will be adjusted correctly to start with.
There are TWO adjustments on the gear, the adjustment on the top of the gearbox and the adjustment at the input shaft of the gearbox. You can adjust the top adjustment all day long, even enough that you have to manually return the steering wheel after a turn, and still have what appears to be "too much play" at the steering wheel. So, do NOT tighten that top adjustment too far, so that the steering gets stiff and will not return from a turn, easily and freely.
DO look at the input shaft of the gear. Have an assistant turn the steering away from "center" and watch the input shaft. IF it moves in and out, that is probably where the adjustments need to be made. In the GM world, that part of the gear is termed "adjuster plug", which explains why it has the notches in the ring near the input shaft, as a special tool is used to set that end-play spec.
Alsio, check the steering shaft coupler to the gearbox input shaft, too.
Compared to GM Saginaw power steering gears, the Chrysler gears just seem looser, by observation, when they really are not. Once you start keying on the Chrysler "play", then it can become very obvious and noticeable, from what I've seen. Even when everything is adjusted correctly, or even "from new". The same orientation can also happen with how the steering wheel is positioned when driving on a "flat" roadway. KEY word is "flat" as not all roads which appear to be flat really are. IF they were, then water would not drain from them, so all usually have a very slight slant to the shoulder for that reason, if not cambered per se. Which can tend to make the alignment appear to be off and the steering wheel not centered. Which ALSO can tend to make things appear worse than they might be!
If you read the FSM, the "adjuster plug" setting is mentioned, but as it takes a special wrench to do it, it doesn't usually get done once the gear is rebuilt (or once the gear is in th car, later on). IF the input shaft moves in and out visibly, then it might also mean those thrust bushings have some wear, but might not be worn out.
Personally, I would be a bit inquisitive as to why the steering wheel has as much play in it as it appears to have. What's there is more than what our C-bodies have, for example, with the engine running.
So, follow the FSM specs and see how what you have compares to them. Then go from there.
Just some observations,
CBODY67
