NOT MINE 70 300 Hurst @ Copart?

Not that it matters much but I think hemi cars can be patina or day 2 and still be desirable. I agree with the hurst.
I would agree regarding 60s cars, but not the E-bods. In the E world you're either concours or the subject of negative comments.
 
David makes a good point (particularly the $8K number), but "doing their own work" eliminates 98% of people who what any sort of collector car, be it Mopar or other. Getting the bodywork straight is far beyond the abilities of most fellows who want a nice car to drive around and take to shows, etc. And getting the mechanicals squared away is similarly difficult for most, as we've seen here with all the questions about simple timing and carburation. Except for @Samplingman and David Hill, nobody in their right mind would want to take on the work required to bring a big C back from the near-dead.

As for turnkey Hursts, we've seen exactly zero on the market during my time of ownership.

Here's a Hurst that's for sale in PA. Anybody wanna give it a try? It's got a good washer bottle! :thumbsup:
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Yes, I agree on the washer bottle, yet you passed up on the air cleaner w/ the proper pie tin, a proper repaint and restore the pie tin. A very hard part to find today not to mention the correct manifold stove minus the flex pipe. More of a parts car.
 
I passed up mentioning a lot of things about this car that I wouldn't want to tackle. For instance....let's talk about that warped decklid. :eek:

Air cleaner? I spent $460 so I could toss the MOPAR air cleaner (and valve covers) and buy a used, needed work dual snorkel from Obsolete, so I know a bit about that subject. :BangHead:
 
I passed up mentioning a lot of things about this car that I wouldn't want to tackle. For instance....let's talk about that warped decklid. :eek:

Air cleaner? I spent $460 so I could toss the MOPAR air cleaner (and valve covers) and buy a used, needed work dual snorkel from Obsolete, so I know a bit about that subject. :BangHead:
There are waves on the deck lid you could surf on.
 
I passed up mentioning a lot of things about this car that I wouldn't want to tackle. For instance....let's talk about that warped decklid. :eek:

Air cleaner? I spent $460 so I could toss the MOPAR air cleaner (and valve covers) and buy a used, needed work dual snorkel from Obsolete, so I know a bit about that subject. :BangHead:
Ouch, I paid less than that for a restored one for my brother's 70 rt/se charger
 
David makes a good point (particularly the $8K number), but "doing their own work" eliminates 98% of people who what any sort of collector car, be it Mopar or other. Getting the bodywork straight is far beyond the abilities of most fellows who want a nice car to drive around and take to shows, etc. And getting the mechanicals squared away is similarly difficult for most, as we've seen here with all the questions about simple timing and carburation. Except for @Samplingman and David Hill, nobody in their right mind would want to take on the work required to bring a big C back from the near-dead.

As for turnkey Hursts, we've seen exactly zero on the market during my time of ownership.

Here's a Hurst that's for sale in PA. Anybody wanna give it a try? It's got a good washer bottle! :thumbsup:
Thanks, I’ve been told I’m not in my right mind many times, but I keep on doing the same thing over and over again expecting a different result. :BangHead:

Funny I keep reading the comments about paying $50k + to restore a C. I’m about $12k into mine and and have just come over the horizon and can see the finish line, maybe another $5k needed. Then again, I have done 98% of the work myself, but really if you have the time it’s not that difficult to do most things yourself.

Where is this one on PA? It doesn’t look that bad, the interior looks very good and that’s half the battle with these things. I’m one that would pay $8k for a decent driver. Even with patina, it would still be the only one at any local show.
 
No, I'd store the car at a friend's house in the Princeton area and go to all your local shows just to make sure you weren't the only one there! :rofl:

The $50K+ number depends upon two things...the starting condition and the owner's skills in mechanical, electrical and metalwork. Most of us wouldn't try to paint something that needs to be accurate like a Hurst. Even the highly skilled Wade (65MonacoND) didn't do his own paint, at least not the overall white. I wonder what his cost is to date, what with a parts car and all the metalwork that was needed.
 
No, I'd store the car at a friend's house in the Princeton area and go to all your local shows just to make sure you weren't the only one there! :rofl:

The $50K+ number depends upon two things...the starting condition and the owner's skills in mechanical, electrical and metalwork. Most of us wouldn't try to paint something that needs to be accurate like a Hurst. Even the highly skilled Wade (65MonacoND) didn't do his own paint, at least not the overall white. I wonder what his cost is to date, what with a parts car and all the metalwork that was needed.
I'm planning on painting the car in my back yard next spring. 8 coats of clear should take out the bugs and the dust, lol.

Bring the car to Princeton, I'll show it for you, win some trophies and maybe make a sale. We have some money up here in Jersey in the hill country and they love gold cars :poke:. That's right near Trumps golf course.......
 
I just sprayed my screen with coffee when I read "8 coats of clear should take out the bugs and the dust, lol."!! Too funny.

I think Trump would love to buy my car. Why? Because it's huuuuuuuuge.....
 
Because it's huuuuuuuuge.....
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The late Billy Fuccillo,
 
No, I'd store the car at a friend's house in the Princeton area and go to all your local shows just to make sure you weren't the only one there! :rofl:

The $50K+ number depends upon two things...the starting condition and the owner's skills in mechanical, electrical and metalwork. Most of us wouldn't try to paint something that needs to be accurate like a Hurst. Even the highly skilled Wade (65MonacoND) didn't do his own paint, at least not the overall white. I wonder what his cost is to date, what with a parts car and all the metalwork that was needed.
If you do a car up to high level it is way more than $50,000 by the time you source NOS, fix fiberglass, etc, even doing a majority of the work yourself. If you are building a good driver, yes it can be done for less, but if you are trying to replicate as close to factory at a high level, it cant be done for less now days unless your interior is already mint, chrome and stainless is still straight and perfect, etc. Its not about cost anymore if you chose to build to that level as you will never recoup your money. I had 1500 in a parts car and 4500 for the Hurst. That is the inexpensive part. The new seats, the rechrome, refinishing the aluminum and stainless trim, the rebuilding of the 800 electrical motors and switches, etc lol, that's where the true cost is.
 
I'm planning on painting the car in my back yard next spring. 8 coats of clear should take out the bugs and the dust, lol.

Bring the car to Princeton, I'll show it for you, win some trophies and maybe make a sale. We have some money up here in Jersey in the hill country and they love gold cars :poke:. That's right near Trumps golf course.......
That's more like amber with a dragonfly trapped in it! Think of it like added jewelry to the car!
 
If you do a car up to high level it is way more than $50,000 by the time you source NOS, fix fiberglass, etc, even doing a majority of the work yourself. If you are building a good driver, yes it can be done for less, but if you are trying to replicate as close to factory at a high level, it cant be done for less now days unless your interior is already mint, chrome and stainless is still straight and perfect, etc. Its not about cost anymore if you chose to build to that level as you will never recoup your money. I had 1500 in a parts car and 4500 for the Hurst. That is the inexpensive part. The new seats, the rechrome, refinishing the aluminum and stainless trim, the rebuilding of the 800 electrical motors and switches, etc lol, that's where the true cost is.
Hello Wade! Thanks for chiming in on this topic, one that I figured you knew really, really well. Is there an update coming on your car? We'd love to see where you're at! Also, I think you're exaggerating the number of motors and switches. It's more like 650. :)

1979: A shop was painting my Cuda after months and months of prep by me. They'd shoot in the evening, off the books, to save this young, broke college boy some money in exchange for me doing prep and reassembly to customers cars. Final coat of clear (Imron paint)......moth gets in the booth, lands on the roof. Grrrrr....
 
1979: A shop was painting my Cuda after months and months of prep by me. They'd shoot in the evening, off the books, to save this young, broke college boy some money in exchange for me doing prep and reassembly to customers cars. Final coat of clear (Imron paint)......moth gets in the booth, lands on the roof. Grrrrr....
Gotta tell the paint story.... Many years ago I bought a '75 NYB years ago from a friend at his shop. He said "Hey, we've got a bunch of brown paint leftover and my brother will paint the car if you tape it". I was good with that and we made a deal. The car was actually yellow, but really needed paint.

So, I taped and prepped the car... His brother was a great guy, really good painter too, but had a drinking problem. He was at the shop and probably the most drunk I've seen anyone that was still upright. I finished masking the car and figured he would just pass out and never get the car painted.... I was wrong. He painted that car that night after everyone left and yea, it looked like a drunk painted it. If someone wanted an example of bad orange peel, this was the car. You could probably light a match off it. In hindsight, I should have just painted the car myself since it was all set to go, but I had already put in a full day at work and had to get home to the family.

Not much could be said... The car was cheap and now all one color. The paint job was pretty much free anyway. It wasn't worth messing up a friendship to ***** about it... and I needed a car right then. But every time I looked at the car, I just shook my head. The car lasted a couple years and all was good.
 
I'll add to the paint stories: I was still at my parents house in 1985 and decided to help a friend spruce up his truck. It was one of those crew cab, 4-wheel axle, extended bed, huuuge truck that did not fit in my parents garage. He wanted a two tone blue and silver, I thought no problem, finish the body work and just paint in the driveway. Yeah, we lived in a suburban, lawn crazed neighborhood, with the next door houses 20 feet away.

I did the whole thing up with the two tone and clear coat, clouds of silver and blue Centari enamel with hardener fogging up the street. It started to drizzle midway through the clear coat so 5 guys surrounded the truck with a huge tarp while I finish spraying. At one point the neighbor across the street screamed out her window that the paint smell was making her sick. Oops. My mom got an earful from the woman and needless to say that ended my driveway auto body career. It actually came out pretty good all things considered, and the paint held up until he sold it years later.
 
Door sticker looks right to me.

I've written about "the Hurst Situation" before here and many of you chimed in with general agreement. We've seen about 10 worn out, beat up, and rusted out Hursts for sale in the 4 1/2 years I've owned mine. And they rarely sell even at the $7-12K range. Why?

Because nobody want's a "driver quality" or a "patina" Hurst. Same goes for an Olds 442, a Mid-year Vette, any Hemi car, the Boss Nine Mustang, COPO or Z28 Camaro, etc. A collector wants them to be "right". If we agree on that collector car situation, what are the specifics of the Hurst?

Two things. The very high cost of restoration to a high standard (which maybe impossible if you're starting with a crashed rust bucket with a destroyed interior. You can't call AMD for sheetmetal like you can for all the muscle cars now, the wheels are practically unobtainium as are the deck lid and hood)), and the totally unknown market for a high standard Hurst once you're done with it.

I called this the Step Function in earlier posts on the viability of Hurst restoration. Who is going to buy a car like this Boston car for maybe $8-10K, knowing it'll take maybe $55K to reach a high standard, with an unknown chance of selling it someday?

The reserve of $24K is a joke, unless Leno want's one to restore. I figure the seller learned that it's a "rare" car (it's a 300 with a paint job!) and thought he had a payday after buying it from the fourth owner's kids for $3K just to get it out of the deceased parent's driveway.

Thus, the Boston car and several others like it just don't sell. At any price. Makes a good derby car, tho! :(
How do we know the reserve was $24k?
The auction is closed, and Copart reportedly removes some of the $$$ numbers from the webpage unless you are a member.
Earlier there was some confusion that the bid was at $24k, when it was the BIN.



Because nobody want's a "driver quality" or a "patina" Hurst.
I'm not a collector and won't make the outlay to have perfection (too many other things in life to invest in).

So for me, based on the pics of the Copart car, it would be perfect for my needs. It looks exactly like it's supposed to except it's a little faded overall.
I'd do some type of repair to the warped trunklid corner and drive that thing everywhere.
If I was in the market for a car, and there wasn't a SFGT available, I'd buy that thing for $10k. (and that's a sure-fire way to make a SFGT pop up)

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