71 Yorker Window channel rust repair (with pix)

DasBoot

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Hi folks,

Since the internet is littered with posts on how to repair window channel rust ranging in cost from cheap to professional, figured I'd help the board out and illustrate how I'm doing mine. This is on my 71 New Yorker. Its pretty evident why the trunk was getting water into it after a hard rain (I also have several Dusters that do the exact same thing). I welcome any constructive criticism or tips on doing this from anyone on this board, please provide feedback! Sorry for the large pix, but I wanted to show as much detail as possible.

Keep in mind this is a budget repair with the tools I have on hand, but also from the viewpoint that I don't want any further damage to the car for future generations. I realize that's almost an oxymoronic statement, but I don't have the funding to pay a shop to fab a channel from scratch.

I first figured out what I needed to cut. Since there are two layers of metal that make up the small strip sections where the window rests and by the grace of god, mine were only rusted thru to the first layer, I decided to just remove the first layer and replace it with good steel.







You can see the patch panels on the package tray I've cut out and plan to weld into the repair in the above photo. I used the chrome trim as a guide for making the patch piece that the window rests on. Its the same shape and swoop as the channel itself. Pretty handy so far.

I used an air chisel to remove the first layer of rusted channel (along with an air cutoff wheel from Harbor Junk for the sides). After removing the entire trunk and tail light panel on my sons duster and learning how the air chisel works on dual layer sheetmetal joints, I was able to chisel gracefully so as not to disturb the bottom layer of factory metal (which is what I'll be welding to).

I'll post some more pix as soon as they're uploaded.
 
In my earlier post, I used the chrome trim as a template for the patch. Notice how it closely follows the shape of the edge:



I've cut out the offending rusty metal from the top layer. Note that the bottom layer of metal is solid and hasn't lost any integrity or structure. You should see the remnants of the spot welds. Those will be ground off and painted over with weld-thru primer.





 
Good start right there, you are going to take out the speaker panel before you weld right?
 
I was going to cover it with a thick moving blanket. My son accidentally put his elbow thru one of the grates when helping me remove the trim so I'm not terribly attached to it at this point since I'll likely replace it with one I make from scratch.

How do you remove it exactly? I'm assuming a couple screws/bolts from inside the trunk?
 
The back seat will have to come out then you will find it is kept in place with some push pins, lifting it up with something with a wide blade will do it to release those pins. then it will pull forward into the car.
 
Perfect. I'll tinker with it after the window channel is done. Thanks! You are awesome.

I'm assuming the back seat (the *** part) is a "push in and down/back" to remove it from the base clip thing? If its anything like an A-body, I got this.
 
Perfect. I'll tinker with it after the window channel is done. Thanks! You are awesome.

I'm assuming the back seat (the *** part) is a "push in and down/back" to remove it from the base clip thing? If its anything like an A-body, I got this.
Yup should be the same, I dont think formals did it different to other C,B,E bodies
 
You were right, they are like all other mopars. I got the back seat out (including the upper) and was disappointed to find only straw wrappers and cigarette plastic wrap. Usually I find money, old baseball cards, etc. I did see a build sheet in the upper part of the seat (theres also one under the passenger seat).

I'll have more repair photos posted here shortly.
 
Album: http://imgur.com/a/ZiyvS

The channel is coming along nicely. I hate plug welding! There is an obscene amount of grinding to do when its needed. Some of the welds are kinda shitty because I think the welder or the ground clamp were acting up/not working. About every 5th trigger pull, I'd get a nice clean round spot of weld. The rest of the time it looked like chicken ****.

I tried to run a spot of weld on that rusty patch....NOPE. It blew thru the metal. So I cut it out and made a patch for it. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to describe the steps I took. This is my very first time making a sheetmetal patch/rust repair, I just read an insane amount of stuff on the internet on how others did it.
 
Moving to the passenger side rust, there was only one hole in the channel that rust had eaten thru.

I did a different (and better) patch style on this side. Far less grinding in a 90 degree corner which sucks major. This is the way to do a proper patch for channel repair as far as I'm concerned. Its better since you are grinding welds on a butt joint instead of that 90 degrees.

PQK3cHY.jpg
 
Thank you. All I used was a vise and a body hammer from the Harbor Junk 10 piece set of body tools. it was about 20 trips from the back of the car to the vise in the garage. I'm really pleased with how this side turned out.
 
nice work. tough area to work in with the tight spaces and compound curves.
 
UPDATE: I got the body filler all done on the back window area and nearly finished removing all the old contact cement from the roof of the car. Found out my son enjoys hand sanding bodywork, and is pretty damn good at it to boot.

I sprayed some cheap primer over the bodywork to protect against light moisture under the tarp (its been 100 degrees here for almost 2 months now) so we aren't seeing any rain or moisture. Besides, we're in a pretty deep drought right now.

I only have the one pic so far, its just your standard body filler photo, nothing fancy. If anyone wants or needs more pix of my work thus far, let me know.

All thats left will be putting the back seat in, installing back lite, fixing tranny leak, painting the top, and finish assembling the steering column (if i can figure out how these DAMN turn signal and tilt lever shields go back in!!! If anyone has any tips on how they go in, PM me please!).

cz59Abi.jpg
 
Nice work!
I had same problem on my 68 Fury. What I did - I made the new channel (one piece) first and made sure it lined up properly and only after that I cut the rusty metal out. Had to do both sides.

IMG_20141214_140921050.jpgIMG_20141214_140932885.jpg

IMG_20141214_140921050.jpg


IMG_20141214_140932885.jpg
 
I sprayed some cheap primer over the bodywork to protect against light moisture under the tarp (its been 100 degrees here (in Washingto!) for almost 2 months now...
I'm so glad I moved to southern Florida where it's cooler...
 
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