A 273 Build (aka Barracuda engine 4.0)

The 65 and earlier 273 have the different bolt angle, the 66+ use the same heads as the 318. All moot point as long as you pair up the intake. The later heads will bolt up to the earlier block, intakes can be redrilled to match heads so the combinations are open.

Alan
Cool, now I know but will probably forget.
 
It should be a fun little engine. Solid flat tappets are hard to find one that I think would really work as I wanted. So I would replace the cam too. You have to replace the pushrods with it because the pushrod seat is higher in the later design hydraulic lifter. But once set, they should stay put.
To answer the other flat tappet/windage tray deal - The cam is lubricated by splash coming up from the crank. It's not from the sump. The windage tray stops the windage from the crank from picking up and holding oil from the oil pan. The tray itself does nothin to help or hurt cam oiling. The only thing that helps the cam is rpms being higher than idle - which is why a cam break in is at least 1800rpm. At that rpm there is sufficient splash to oil the cam and lifter faces.
 
Day 6

The day started off with putting the crank seal in the timing cover, a section of exhaust pipe was the perfect fit to drive it in, although the seal has a coating on it sealant was used. The timing cover and water pump were installed, after the bolts were all installed the balancer was put on loosely to insure the covered was properly centered on the crank. An oversize nut was used to make up for the lack of the alternator bracket and spacer. With the cover properly positioned the bolts were all tightened.

While I finished up cleaning the gasket surfaces on the oil pan my friend worked on fitting the oil filter adapter, we had used the Barracuda (has an engine still in the car) to determine the best angle for it. While tightening the bolt we heard a pop, a pretty good pop so we pulled the bolt out and saw it had broke in two places. In looking at another bolt we had we noticed a difference in both the thickness and the placement of the holes, big difference in the strength.
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Happy with the oil filter adapter we moved on to the oil pan, no real surprise here. Additional sealant was applied in some key area at the corners. With time up we finished the day with putting the dowels in for the heads. One of the Cometic head gaskets was test fitted out of curiosity, these have a 3.670 bore that is a perfect match for the 0.030 over, much better than the one size fits all gaskets.
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Alan
 
Is it one of the 90-degrees oil filter adapters? I remember having one on the 318 in my Dart. I originally had it in there to clear headers, but I think it also meant the filter spun on vertically rather than at an angle and no longer spilled oil. My memory could be flawed tho
 
Is it one of the 90-degrees oil filter adapters? I remember having one on the 318 in my Dart. I originally had it in there to clear headers, but I think it also meant the filter spun on vertically rather than at an angle and no longer spilled oil. My memory could be flawed tho
It is seen in the last picture, I would never loosen it to remove the filter as there is sealant on the gasket (I guess you could redo that).


Alan
 
Ahh, of course. I see it now.

Again, going from memory 20+ years ago, but the similar one I had enabled me to mount it vertically. With it horizontal like that you might find yourself spilling oil every oil change. Or maybe not. You seem to do things with greater care than I do.

:)
 
Day 6

The day started off with putting the crank seal in the timing cover, a section of exhaust pipe was the perfect fit to drive it in, although the seal has a coating on it sealant was used. The timing cover and water pump were installed, after the bolts were all installed the balancer was put on loosely to insure the covered was properly centered on the crank. An oversize nut was used to make up for the lack of the alternator bracket and spacer. With the cover properly positioned the bolts were all tightened.

While I finished up cleaning the gasket surfaces on the oil pan my friend worked on fitting the oil filter adapter, we had used the Barracuda (has an engine still in the car) to determine the best angle for it. While tightening the bolt we heard a pop, a pretty good pop so we pulled the bolt out and saw it had broke in two places. In looking at another bolt we had we noticed a difference in both the thickness and the placement of the holes, big difference in the strength.
View attachment 183776

View attachment 183777
Happy with the oil filter adapter we moved on to the oil pan, no real surprise here. Additional sealant was applied in some key area at the corners. With time up we finished the day with putting the dowels in for the heads. One of the Cometic head gaskets was test fitted out of curiosity, these have a 3.670 bore that is a perfect match for the 0.030 over, much better than the one size fits all gaskets.
View attachment 183778

2018-04-01_015.jpg



Alan

Enjoying the build, you are making it look very easy and like how you are going step by step with pics for viewing.

Another question on the 2 adapter bolts. The one on the left which snapped may not necessarily be about lesser strength, but better oil flow due to the larger inside diameter of the bolt and the larger holes at the top section?
 
Another question on the 2 adapter bolts. The one on the left which snapped may not necessarily be about lesser strength, but better oil flow due to the larger inside diameter of the bolt and the larger holes at the top section?
Whereas that may be true about the bolt, the heavier bolt has the same size orifice as the filter nipple on the adapter. The return port in the adapter is the same size so at the end of the day there is no loss in flow.


Alan
 
Whereas that may be true about the bolt, the heavier bolt has the same size orifice as the filter nipple on the adapter. The return port in the adapter is the same size so at the end of the day there is no loss in flow.


Alan

OK, just thought size might have had an effect on the oil flow.
 
Day 7

The day started with verifying the valve rocker geometry, once we were happy the Cometic head gaskets were copper coated. While we waited for the gaskets to be ready the head gasket surfaces were cleaned and the block surface. Once the gaskets were ready the heads were put on.
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Next up was to check the pushrod length, a lifter, pushrod and the rocker assembly were put on. Because we are using hydraulic lifters with the adjustable rockers different pushrods were needed. The geometry was checked through the rocker travel, everything checked out. The new valve springs are a little larger in diameter and are very close to the rockers so the decision was to clearance them, time was up so took care of that after my friend left. Due to the grinding the rockers were thoroughly cleaned with Brākleen.
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Day 8

New day, first up was to install the balancer now that we had an installer. Oil was then poured into the engine through the valley over all the lifter sleeves, the oil was pumped till it came out the first lifter (number 8 exhaust) then the lifters were put in leading the oil forward on the right head and back on the left till they were all in, at that point the pleasure climbed to a good point. The push rods were then put in with assembly lube on both ends. The rockers were put on the shaft and assembly lube applied as they were slid into place. The assembly was bolted in place and the clearance checked, still not enough. The rockers were removed, cleaned and ground some more then cleaned again, rinse and repeat. Rocker assemblies once again installed, the engine was rotated to TDC (compression) and the rockers adjusted rotating through the sequence.
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Alan
 
Day 7

The day started with verifying the valve rocker geometry, once we were happy the Cometic head gaskets were copper coated. While we waited for the gaskets to be ready the head gasket surfaces were cleaned and the block surface. Once the gaskets were ready the heads were put on.
View attachment 184358
Next up was to check the pushrod length, a lifter, pushrod and the rocker assembly were put on. Because we are using hydraulic lifters with the adjustable rockers different pushrods were needed. The geometry was checked through the rocker travel, everything checked out. The new valve springs are a little larger in diameter and are very close to the rockers so the decision was to clearance them, time was up so took care of that after my friend left. Due to the grinding the rockers were thoroughly cleaned with Brākleen.
View attachment 184359

Day 8

New day, first up was to install the balancer now that we had an installer. Oil was then poured into the engine through the valley over all the lifter sleeves, the oil was pumped till it came out the first lifter (number 8 exhaust) then the lifters were put in leading the oil forward on the right head and back on the left till they were all in, at that point the pleasure climbed to a good point. The push rods were then put in with assembly lube on both ends. The rockers were put on the shaft and assembly lube applied as they were slid into place. The assembly was bolted in place and the clearance checked, still not enough. The rockers were removed, cleaned and ground some more then cleaned again, rinse and repeat. Rocker assemblies once again installed, the engine was rotated to TDC (compression) and the rockers adjusted rotating through the sequence.
View attachment 184360
View attachment 184361


Alan

Not trying to be a pain in the rear, but trying to learn a bit by asking questions so hope I am not ticking you off. LOL

Having the tight clearances on the rockers-to-springs, and seeing you are using the adjustable rocker arms...... would it not have been better to use shims under the rocker shafts to raise them up to gain the needed clearances rather than grind on them and then adjust your rocker arms accordingly? Rocker Shaft Shims
 
We did get shims and chose to not use them, he liked the geometry better. More than anything we just took off the casting ridge.


Alan
 
had that same issue of rockers hitting the springs , springs are to big in dia . so i just ground some material of the rockers . no issues now .
 
Day 9

One thing we had planned on doing was to block off the heat crossover on the intake, with today's gas vapor lock is more an issue. I used an old 440 valley pan and cut a couple pieces out to cover the ports on the heads, these pieces were stuck to the head with some high temp sealant.
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Sealant was liberally applied to the joint where the heads meet the block, sealant was then put on the cork gaskets and installed. Before the intake gaskets were put on sealant was applied around the coolant ports on the head. The Fel-Pro composite Printoseal gaskets were then put in place, with the gaskets in place sealant was put over the cork gaskets and where they meet the heads. Before the intake was put on sealant was applied around the coolant ports and the surfaces where it meets the cork.
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The intake was placed, sealant applied to the ends of the bolts and the bolts put in and torqued. The expansion plugs were then installed, before the block was cleaned with emery cloth and Brākleen then sealant applied.

After my friend left I finished up a bunch of stuff. First up was the thermostat, before installing it I drilled hole in it to help let air out and coolant in when filling.
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The valve covers needed to have the flange fixed at the holes, with a bar clamped in the vice they were hammered flat. Sealant was put on one side of the gaskets and installed the covers.
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A box wrench was used to press the dipstick tube in, sealant was used.


Alan
 
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For some reason one of the heads didn't have the hole needed for the ground wire (same hole that the negative battery cable would use). The head was drilled and tapped, the engine stand was in the way so every 3/4 turn I'd have to remove the handle and rotate it 1/4 turn and continue.
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I wrapped the day up with drilling holes in the 4-bbl lifting plate, there were no provisions for a 2-bbl.
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Alan
 
Day 10

The day started with moving both cars out of the garage so I could paint the engine.
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The engine was originally painted with Dupli-Color Chrysler red, not quite right knowing I'd be doing a full assembly paint when done. After cleaning everything I went over all the marred hardware and gaskets with the Dupli-Color till it all looked even. The Mopar was chosen to have the best match to what I thought the original color was, while working on the engine I was putting some clear paint on some other parts and hardware.
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Once I was happy with the paint on the engine I put the cars back in the garage, this time I backed the Barracuda in as next up was to pull the engine. After a break for lunch I set in on clearing the engine compartment, with this rebuild I'm refreshing the entire engine compartment. By the end of the day I had everything out but the engine and it was ready to pull short of draining the coolant and pulling the radiator.
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Day 11

A simple hookup and pull, nope first drag the hoist out from the yard in pieces. Even though it was just used a few months ago all the finger tight bolts needed wrenched to remove so I could assemble the hoist. System drained and radiator removed. Finally able to pull the hoist was hooked up and away it went. The engine was lowered so I could put the dolly on it, I have use this dolly before but I guess I never had a filter on the engine, off it came good to go.
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The car was pushed all the way into the garage so I could make room for the engine in front of the car (temporarily). With the car moved I had no room in the garage, the door locks from the inside and I have to climb over stuff to get into the house.
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Alan
 
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