A few questions for the experts. 65 300L convertible

capyjack

capyjack

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Just stepped into this project and I am going to be looking for some parts and advise.
First I will ask about the seat motors, drivers side only, there are two motors and I have one out at the moment.
It was locked up but with a shot of WD40 I was able to get it to turn freely. However, I can't get it to motor.
There are no motor shops near me anymore.
So, where do I buy a couple of motors? numbers are 2486180 and 24?8372. That ? might be a 3.
Speaking of motors, it may have been on this forum a few years ago that I got some info on some current window motors for my other 65 300.
I bought 4 motors that bolted right up but I had to do my own wiring. Sound familiar? There are lefts and rights.
I will go on with a couple of more things that I want to deal with.
I have the door cards off to get at the window motors and the upholstery is in pretty good shape, but the cards themselves are kinda funky. Anybody punching these boards out this day in age or are we making our own?
Here's another thing I want to figure out. The drivers door doesn't stay open by itself. It has a roll pin that I assumed was broken (and it was) so I punched it out. The flat arm and the spring are still there.
It looks like there should be a bushing for the lack of a better term that maybe has that roll pin thru it. I suspect that I will have to take that door off to get into the hinge to fix this. Kinda not looking forward to that. The hinges are not worn and the doors line up pretty good still. Any easy fix on that? I hope.
Thanks for reading my rant, there will probably be more.
Cheers, Jack
 
Just searched my history and found the window motors. Still need the seat motors.
 
Nice project! As to the door hinges, what does the other side look like?

www.mymopar.com has Chrysler MasterTech videos, factory service manuals, and factory parts books for free download. Also, www.jholst.net is good for 1955-65 Chrysler letter cars (with manuals and information that also applies to normal Chryslers of those model years).

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
CBODY67 said:
Nice project! As to the door hinges, what does the other side look like?
Click to expand...
I can barely bet my finger in there to feel around, but it seems that It may have a bushing or the likes that the flat bar with the detents runs against. Probably held in there via a roll pin. I don't feel that on the offending side.

Thanks for the links, I will do some investigating.
 
capyjack said:
Just stepped into this project and I am going to be looking for some parts and advise.
First I will ask about the seat motors, drivers side only, there are two motors and I have one out at the moment.
It was locked up but with a shot of WD40 I was able to get it to turn freely. However, I can't get it to motor.
There are no motor shops near me anymore.
So, where do I buy a couple of motors? numbers are 2486180 and 24?8372. That ? might be a 3.
Speaking of motors, it may have been on this forum a few years ago that I got some info on some current window motors for my other 65 300.
I bought 4 motors that bolted right up but I had to do my own wiring. Sound familiar? There are lefts and rights.
I will go on with a couple of more things that I want to deal with.
I have the door cards off to get at the window motors and the upholstery is in pretty good shape, but the cards themselves are kinda funky. Anybody punching these boards out this day in age or are we making our own?
Here's another thing I want to figure out. The drivers door doesn't stay open by itself. It has a roll pin that I assumed was broken (and it was) so I punched it out. The flat arm and the spring are still there.
It looks like there should be a bushing for the lack of a better term that maybe has that roll pin thru it. I suspect that I will have to take that door off to get into the hinge to fix this. Kinda not looking forward to that. The hinges are not worn and the doors line up pretty good still. Any easy fix on that? I hope.
Thanks for reading my rant, there will probably be more.
Cheers, Jack
Click to expand...
I made my own door cards. Door Panel repair

Take a look at this thread for seat motors. I can't tell you if they are the same as a '65 Chrysler though. For Sale - Bucket power seat tracks - rebuilt

Stay away from using WD-40 on parts like this. It's meant as a moisture displacer and it will leave a gummy residue behind and can make things worse.
 
fury fan said:
I looked thru the beginning of that thread, I must've missed if you said what material you used for the door card.
Masonite, 'hardboard', 1/8" plywood?
Click to expand...
I used this, but I see that they aren't selling a smaller quantity online now. Panel Board-Waterproof-Kraft Tan for Auto Upholstery

This duplicated the original pretty well. I don't have a good source to tell you now... Maybe contacting Perfectfit may give an answer... Or just google Kraft panel board or something like that.
 
UPDATE...
I got the door hinge dealt with and went into the seat motors and got them working.
I was asking if there was anyone that reproduced the door cards.
Apparently not, so I used the old ones for now.
I still don't have the windows working properly.
Funny thing, I had them all working, but after I put all the interior back together only one is working. Goes to prove that its always something.
 
@Big_John
I think I did see one of those sites before somehow.
Hardboard and 1/8" plywood are both readily available at home stores, and door cards are something I could make on my CNC router (with a bit of trial work).
Hardboard is probably more moisture-resistant, but not as friendly if any backside-stapling is required.
Plywood is far better for stapling, but might be less accepted by customers. And softening the edge is more time-consuming vs hardboard (splinters and sharpness).
As neither material is ideal nor 'correct', I haven't pursued it.

To do it 'right', buying the correct material (with its high shipping cost) would make the final product (with another shipping cost) quite pricey for the guys on here.
And I'd need some patterns other than the ones my own cars can provide (front cards for 65-68 2-door and rear cards for 65-68 'standard' 2-door hardtop).
Just another fantasy put on the shelf...
 
fury fan said:
@Big_John
I think I did see one of those sites before somehow.
Hardboard and 1/8" plywood are both readily available at home stores, and door cards are something I could make on my CNC router (with a bit of trial work).
Hardboard is probably more moisture-resistant, but not as friendly if any backside-stapling is required.
Plywood is far better for stapling, but might be less accepted by customers. And softening the edge is more time-consuming vs hardboard (splinters and sharpness).
As neither material is ideal nor 'correct', I haven't pursued it.

To do it 'right', buying the correct material (with its high shipping cost) would make the final product (with another shipping cost) quite pricey for the guys on here.
And I'd need some patterns other than the ones my own cars can provide (front cards for 65-68 2-door and rear cards for 65-68 'standard' 2-door hardtop).
Just another fantasy put on the shelf...
Click to expand...
If you could find a local supplier, you might be able to cut down some initial shipping costs and while the finished product isn't going to be cheap to ship, it is going to be smaller and perhaps able to ship UPS.
 
As to the "door cards", back in the later 1990s, a friend in another car club rebuilt his own door panels using the correct materials, which I believe he sourced from a local San Antonio upholstery supply business. They came out well.

Plywood or similar is usually too thick, of if thin enough, prone to warping in damp conditions. Which means they would need to be finished in a good coat of polyurethane varnish to keep the moisture away from the wood itself.

If SMS does correct door panels, then they have to be getting the correct stuff from somewhere.

Finding that "somewhere" might be the trick, though, even in a Google-dependent world. BUT it should be possible. Just as local automotive upholstery shops have suppliers other than SMS, too. You might have to get the upholstery shop to get the cards for you, though, unless the supply warehouse might sell them directly to you.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
capyjack said:
Mine is a convertible, probably different yet.
Click to expand...
Yes, for the rear pieces.

Big_John said:
If you could find a local supplier, you might be able to cut down some initial shipping costs and while the finished product isn't going to be cheap to ship, it is going to be smaller and perhaps able to ship UPS.
Click to expand...
Yeah, thought about local sourcing.
Seems like the length/girth measurements would make them UPS-shippable, although a quick trip on Amazon showed that a box for each shipment would be at least $10.
It's almost a business that one needs to start first, to see if it's gonna get wings.
What I need is a car that needs doorpanels, so I can proof-of-concept on my own dime/time, and see what results.

1696281786375.png


CBODY67 said:
Plywood or similar is usually too thick, of if thin enough, prone to warping in damp conditions. Which means they would need to be finished in a good coat of polyurethane varnish to keep the moisture away from the wood itself.
Click to expand...

That was my concern on plywood also, although a 9" roller would make quick work of coating them.
Or maybe marine plywood, although that is surely more expensive, but might be cheaper in the long run.
 
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