Big Block Into a Small Block Sub Frame

[BDR529]

Well I have all of the parts I'm going to need down at my house and I've been talking to a few speed shops and am getting different shops for different aspects of the build. I've found one place that everyone recommends for cleaning and honing, and a separate place that is supposedly the best balancer in the valley. SO now that I'm using different shops for different aspects, should I take the heads in to the block guy for cleaning as well, or just let whoever I find to do work on the heads worry about cleaning them? Also, if I'm not going to be porting the heads, what do I need and how should I go about asking for improvements to the bowls and guide boss' and deshrouding the valves? I'm thinking I'll be able to start getting everything into shops by the first weekend in November...

 

[commando1]

If you are looking to extract every last oz. out your stock heads, the most cost efficient way is to send them to CompuFlow. That's my 2¢

(Sent using Forum Runner)

 

[livininharrow]

hey BDR find a reputable shop to do all of the work on your motor . less bullshit that way. that way you only have one company to deal with if stuff goes for a ****. everyone wants to pass the blame if you have a problem. you need to keep this as simple as possible . just my 2 sense.

 

[BDR529]

Well, I took the block into a shop (finally, to get it cleaned and honed, and just my luck, the block had a crack. I at least got some good heads and the rest of the interior engine components out of it, now I just need to find a new block! Hoping to get one for 350 or less so by the time it's cleaned, honed, and ready to build I'm less than 500 into the block...

 

[BDR529]

OK, I have ANOTHER block in the shop. On the plus side, this one mag checked good and should be ready to pick up this weekend. It is a very slow going build and completely dependent upon cash flow and time. My first goal is to get the rotating assembly in place. Cleraly, from my previous posts, you can tell I've never done this before. What all to I need to do to get the crank and pistons in? I know how to physically install them, my question is do I need anyhting else taken to a machine shop prior to installation? My main concern is different sized main bearings. Do I need to have the crank checked somehow? And I was thinking that I could reuse the stock piston rods and replace the pistons with some KB237-STD's. Is there anyhting wrong with this logic? Thanks again for any and all help!

 

[Wollfen]

All I know is that I'm no longer buying into all the b.s. hype and I'm simply going with a MP Purple camshaft on my next build.

Fwiw, I've been surfing CL looking for a MH 440 block to keep myself busy. Getting restless again...

(Sent using Forum Runner)

Just a thought i do have a MH 440 that is supposed to be a good runner sitting on my shop floor.

 

[commando1]

Just a thought i do have a MH 440 that is supposed to be a good runner sitting on my shop floor.

Old post. Very old.
I have one on a stand right now...

 

[Fratzog]

Did the block only need to be honed? If you are using stock rod's and KB pistons will you have any wrist pin issues?

 

[BDR529]

I had the block checked and was told it was .003 over standard bore. I talked with the mechanic and we decided that although it's close, I'd rather err on the side of safety. I wanted to keep it as close to an original 440, but after some research found that .010 and .020 parts were difficult to find and not readily available, so we decided to bore it .030 over. I still like the Keith Black pistons because they have a great reputation, but I was also looking at Speed Pro TRW pistons. Does anyone have any input on these? I honestly have no idea about whether or not the pistons are direct replacement for stock, or how to go about even checking that. Any info on that aspect would be great as well. Also, speaking with my mechanic about the crank, I'm going to bring it to him this weekend and he's going to measure it to verify what size main bearings I need. Do I need to do anyhting else with the crank other than have it measured? And for balancing the rotating assembly, what all needs to be installed in the block to have this done? Just the crank and pistons or does the cam need to be in?

 

[commando1]

At .003. I think I would have considered just a hone, new gapless rings and 10-50 oil.

 

[1978 NYB]

i'm considering doing a 451 stroker motor.

 

[commando1]

Right....................

 

[has2bmopar]

...we decided to bore it .030 over. I still like the Keith Black pistons because they have a great reputation, but I was also looking at Speed Pro TRW pistons. Does anyone have any input on these? I honestly have no idea about whether or not the pistons are direct replacement for stock, or how to go about even checking that. Any info on that aspect would be great as well. Also, speaking with my mechanic about the crank, I'm going to bring it to him this weekend and he's going to measure it to verify what size main bearings I need. Do I need to do anyhting else with the crank other than have it measured? And for balancing the rotating assembly, what all needs to be installed in the block to have this done? Just the crank and pistons or does the cam need to be in?

If you go with the TRW/Federal Mogul pistons go with the forged pistons. If you go with the cheaper aftermarket cast pistons you will have broken pistons within a month or two. Been there, done that on a 360... To be blunt, they are $hit. I have a set of Kieth-Black pistons in the 440 in my '74 Power Wagon and have had no issues, but have heard good and bad with them also.

TRW has a forged piston with the compression height about in the range of a '70 440 which I believe are nearly .200" taller than the mid-late '70's 440s. This should give you about 9.5:1. If you want to know your compression ratio exactly, you will need to check the CCs of the combustion chambers on your heads, know your gasket thickness (.039"?), piston compression height, valve relief CCs etc.

If you have never assembled an engine before, I would either get some experienced help, or just pay your machinist to assemble the shortblock. Too much money involved theses days to learn as you go, and many times in this area beginners learn by failure. Rebuild your lawn mower if you want to play, and if it comes apart, you can still afford to go on vacation... Just my 2 cents... :dontknow: