commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Edelbrock dual plane low riser Performer....
Big Block Into a Small Block Sub Frame
- Thread starter BDR529
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BDR529
Member
Well that was easy. Now I'm looking for someone that knows a lot about tech stuff. What cam/lifter set would you recommend for a mild engine build that can run on 87 octane? Also, any other things I should consider updating in the heads?
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BDR529
Member
So the only recommendation I've gotten so far was the Lunati VooDoo 10230702 cam/lifter set. Doing a very mild amount of research I think I want an lobe separation angle of between 110 and 112, and narrowed it down to the Lunati 10230702LK, the edelbrock EDL-7194, and the Comp Cams CL21-670-4. Anyone have any experience or input on these cams, or any other suggestions?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
What made you come to the conclusion that lobe spec was what you needed for a cam?. That's akin to scoping out all the shoe laces out there to determine the right pair of shoes.
Motorhome cam, OEM replacement lifters, pushrods, valve springs, locks, and retainers. Use cup type seals on both the intake and exhaust.
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Motorhome cam, OEM replacement lifters, pushrods, valve springs, locks, and retainers. Use cup type seals on both the intake and exhaust.
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BDR529
Member
From what I was reading it seemed like the higher the lobe separation the more choppy the idle was, and I'm looking for just a bit more lopey that stock. Unless I completely mis-read the articles on summit and comp cams. And I'm not sure exactly what you were saying at the end, was that a recommendation for a set-up? I thought earlier you recommended buying the cam and lifters etc as a set, which is why I was looking into the aftermarket options.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Skip what I said at the end. I was just thinking out loud. No, your choices are all ok
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has2bmopar
Senior Member
The closer that the lobe separation is, the more overlap you will have causing the lope, and the longer duration cams will in general have less lobe separation and will have less low end torque. A 112 centerline will be more street friendly than a 108 centerline.
There is a big difference in the Lunati vs. the Edelbrock and Comp Cams cam that you listed. You should choose your cam with the duration specs @ .050" lift and the power range in which you will be using it, and be compatable with your gear ratio. The Lunati will work with your stock low compression pistons, but the other 2 larger cams will not work well at all without having your compression ratio up around 9.5: 1 with iron heads. The larger cams would also need headers and higher ratio rear end gears to work well also.
The compression ratio of the later 440s was 8.2: 1, and if you do not want to change the pistons you should definitely stick with the Lunati cam with the 220/226 duration @ .050" valve lift. I would assume you will be running about a 3.21/3.23 rear end ratio, and this also will work well with a cam in the 220-230 duration range.
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BDR529
Member
Based on that in of I've changed up the selection a bit. In order I'm looking at the Lunati 10230702LK, the Summit SUM-K6401, Com Cams CL21-306-4, and Mopar Performance P4286677. I've also been hearing a lot about pistons. I had every intention of replacing them, but I guess that final decision will come once I actually get the motor apart and see what kind of condition they're in. How much would new pistons effect the choice of a cam?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Your choice of cam will change according to the final CR you end up with on your piston choice.
You want to stay on pump reg. gas so you can't go over 9.0:1 That's why I was thinking aloud about a motor home cam....
If you stay with your stock pistons (low CR) I'm still convinced on a motor home cam and stock-type valve train. $$$$, remember???
If you have to bore out your cylinders and go .030 over which will require new pistons, your choice of CR's is limitless.
has2bmopar
Senior Member
If you are replacing pistons, this will definitely open up more cam options and adding some compression will be a huge improvement.
Once you tear your engine down, CC your chambers and I can give you some help in figuring your compression ratio based on different piston compression hieght and valve relief specs.
Be sure to add balancing your engine to your list, as the new pistons will undoubtedly be different in weight than the originals. When getting a quote on this, be sure to let your machine shop know that this engine is externally balanced, and they will need your harmonic balancer and torque converter to balance it.
BDR529
Member
Thanks for all the help! How do I go about CC'ing my chambers? will this change at all with a port job on my heads? and am I going to need new valves or push rods?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I thought this was going to be a budget motor running on 87 octane.....
BDR529
Member
87 is the key. Budget would be nice. Like I said I'm in no rush to have this motor finished and ready to go, so I can throw a couple hundred dollars per pay check at it. My only concern is since I'm doing it this way, I want to try and spend less than a fully assembled crate engine. SO trying to keep it under 5,000 total...
Greg B.
Senior Member
Based on my Oldsmobile experience, I always liked Engle cams. I know they make a variety for Chrysler engines but don't know how good they are in that application.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
All I know is that I'm no longer buying into all the b.s. hype and I'm simply going with a MP Purple camshaft on my next build.
Fwiw, I've been surfing CL looking for a MH 440 block to keep myself busy. Getting restless again...
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Fwiw, I've been surfing CL looking for a MH 440 block to keep myself busy. Getting restless again...
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Motor Home 440?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Yep. The one with the 452 heads that use the GM 5/8ths "peanut" plug.......
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What are you going to put that motor in? Your NY'er or a future project?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Not thinking that far ahead, yet.
Let me get a hell of a deal on a block, first.
Just the build alone is the fun. There's something extremely calming about wrenching an engine on a stand. It's like creating a statue out of a block of fault free marble.
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Let me get a hell of a deal on a block, first.
Just the build alone is the fun. There's something extremely calming about wrenching an engine on a stand. It's like creating a statue out of a block of fault free marble.
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has2bmopar
Senior Member
Get a 6"x 6" piece of plexiglass and two syringes... one 35cc/ml and one smaller, like 10cc/ml. (I will get you some pictures in the near future, as to further details).
I wouldn't recommend doing too much port work to your heads, as it could hurt your low end torque, and it would not be beneficial for the type of build that you have described.
You can do quite a bit of improvement to the bowls and the guide bosses, but I would not try to enlarge the ports themselves, beyond a gasket match to your intake. I would do some smoothing of your chambers, and once you have accumulated some hours on your die grinder, you may carefully deshroud the valves slightly also. I would recommend getting a spare pair of used valves to protect your seats during any chamber work.
You should not need valves or pushrods, but you will need new valve springs that will match whatever cam that you settle on.
Let me know what gear ratio that you are going to have and if you are going to use headers or not, and I can give you my opinion on your cam options.
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