Can I use a b-body gas tank on my C body?

I used 30# roofing felt from the hardware store for the tank pad. It was basically the same stuff.

It doesn't really bother me having 4 gallons less gas. This car is a weekend cruiser. I'm not taking road trips so the extra 40 miles of range I'm giving up doesn't really bother me.
 
About 4 gallons loss means about 60 miles less between fill-ups, from whatever fuel gauge position you filled up from originally. For some, that might be an issue.

If the smaller capacity can become an issue, then save money for the larger tank in a year or so. In the mean time, that $100.00+ saved can be used to pay bills and other things. Plus the newer, smaller tank can provide the peace of mind of not having to worry about such things for a good while, if that might matter.

Everything has a cost, monetary or otherwise. Time for judgment calls.

CBODY67
 
I would think you would want to re-use the C Body tank straps over buying the new straps with the B Body 68 Coronet tank. I believe since the C Body tank was larger, the mounting points will be further apart. The B Body straps make not be long enough.
 
I would think you would want to re-use the C Body tank straps over buying the new straps with the B Body 68 Coronet tank. I believe since the C Body tank was larger, the mounting points will be further apart. The B Body straps make not be long enough.
Right. I did get the C body straps, but the sending unit and tank is for the b-body Coronet. We should know in about a week or so
 
There IS a thread in here, from several years ago, about using a particular B-body tank on a '68 or so C-body car. Using the C-body straps. With pictures! The poster was in Houston, TX.

I DM'd him for details. C-body straps. C-body filler neck. The B-body tank's size is a bit shorter and a bit narrower.

One hallmark of a "luxury" car, back then, was the capability of travelling about 300 miles in comfort between fuel stops. Which generally meant a gas tank of about 25 gallon. Other "lesser cars" normally had a 18-20 gallon tank, by comparison. With the current gas prices, I normally do either an 8 gallon fill amount or $25.00, rather than "sticker shock" of doing a 3/4 tank fill-up.

CBODY67
 
I had a 1990 Ramcharger. Tank was huge. 24 gallons maybe? Can’t help but wonder how it compares in shape to a C body tank. Also have had rust on both my 66 Newport and my 65. Both rusted around the sending unit. Leaking when filled up over half tank. Fixed both with a cheap product called Seals All. 66 had a 1” hole, just above the seam. I made a small patch, gooped it up good a few times for good luck. Fixed the leaks both times. I considered buying a b body tank also, only because I planned on buying a 62-64 push button b body and using my 65 Eng/trans as a donor, along with a 65+ rear axle.
 
It would be nice to be able to use a b-body tank as tanks inc makes a nice tank with a sump and baffles, and will sell you an in-tank pump and pickup, which makes it nice for any fuel injection setup, or by using a bypass regulator allows you to feed your carb with cool fuel from the tank, which would mitigate vapor lock. It would also be nice to eliminate the fuel pump pushrod as a small bonus.
 
Ramchargers, like the similar Chevy Blazers back then, had an optional 31 gallon tank. Standard tank was abt 20 gallons?

The B and C-body tanks are somewhat wedge shaped. Thinner at the back than the front. Ramchanger tanks are more square, front to back.

CBODY67
 
From my experience with a C Body you will want a C Body tank for the extra fuel capacity due to the mileage of these land yatchs.
 
Ramchargers, like the similar Chevy Blazers back then, had an optional 31 gallon tank. Standard tank was abt 20 gallons?

The B and C-body tanks are somewhat wedge shaped. Thinner at the back than the front. Ramchanger tanks are more square, front to back.

CBODY67
My '87 Ramcharger had a 38 gallon tank.
 
putting 440 with dual exhaust. narrow tank may keep exhaust inside frame
FACTORY dual exhaust ran inside the frame with the 25 gallon tank. IF you are worried about heat issues, there is always ThermoTec wrap for that . . . just like for headers.

The factory routing is quite detailed in the illustrations in the Factory Service Manuals, which can be found at www.mymopar.com . Might need to manually input that address.

CBODY67
 
A KRY issue on prices, which have been stable for about 5 years or so at Van's, is where the tanks are produced. All things considered!
 
A KRY issue on prices, which have been stable for about 5 years or so at Van's, is where the tanks are produced. All things considered!

Just looked around a bit more extensively. Prices and manufacturers vary surprisingly this season! I like a Spectra CR20B for $268 just fine for now. Admittedly, it seems true that B-body tanks, 19-20 gallons run about half the cost, but its clear that this is a buyers market for the present. I sure as **** don't mind popping between $220-300 for one made for a C-body of decent steel. As you know WELL, Sunny Southwestern roads run looooonnnnnngggggg, so full capacity gas tanks in our corner are the prudent shopper's safe bet.
 
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