Chads Yellow Polara thread, New dual exhaust, wheels on!Yee!

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Chad

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You guys crack me up. I would put lol but it’s more like lmfao. I don’t know what makes you guys tick, but it’s hilarious and I love it. I’m at a car show enjoying myself, people love the car, and I check FCBO and reality strikes! I won’t get $8500 for the car! I can always go down on price, but I can never go up.
Let me have some fun... “one and a quarter owner, all original, CLASSIC Mopar monster! Ultra low 46k highway only miles. Blistering HO performance 360 cubic inch Mopar muscle! My grandma bought it new and always babied it since day one! Turns on a dime. One of a kind, show winner. Just ask those C body Mopar geniuses on FCBO! But wait, there’s more! GUARANTEED CLASSIC ON THE RISE! A true gem.”

FCBO reply- .....$2500.... ruined Chev wannabe.

Maybe it was 100 half hours... you know how it goes... towing it home took an hour and a half, that doesn’t count. The time I spent diagnosing the timing chain sprocket (new starter, plugs, compression testing, draining fuel tank, charging battery, messing with timing, clearing fuel lines, etc) doesn’t count either. That’s not real car enhancement.
I’ll tell you what. Let’s call it 50 hours. I’m going straight to Sherwin Williams automotive and the the shop after the show. I’ll get my HPLV gun out, tear motor back down. Strip engine bay and firewall of everything, meticulously mask the bay, and put true Mopar blue on the motor. Then I’ll sand my ridiculous rattle can blasphemy off, and respray the bay with a gun to legitimize the application of the paint.
Then, I will bolt on the original 15’s with the separated tires and immediately spend $1780 on some 15 inch road wheels with a real Cooper Cobras or BFG Radial TA’s. I’ve got enough room on my credit card to spend with reckless abandonment, and the safety of the tires is just a temporary worry. I can make up some of that cost with the drivers side exhaust setup that I’ll cut off and sell to someone who wants to add duals to their car.
I bet you by then I’ll have had the 100 hours. I’ll feel better about myself and the car as well. Jeeze I don’t knkw what I would do without you guys. Thanks for straightening me out. What I was doing made no sense And I was having no fun.
Who wants to buy some wheels and driver side exhaust setup?
Hugs and kisses.
$2500 hehe. Smh :wtf:
 

71Polara383

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I'm the dumb kid that had originally showed a bit of interest in this car. But given it was not a 70 or 71 I was not very interested. Is the car ruined? No. But if you planned to appeal to the SMALL crowd of people that will actually pay good coin for a C body, you have failed in that attempt. Good luck with the sale I guess.
 

cantflip

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You guys crack me up. I would put lol but it’s more like lmfao. I don’t know what makes you guys tick, but it’s hilarious and I love it. I’m at a car show enjoying myself, people love the car, and I check FCBO and reality strikes! I won’t get $8500 for the car! I can always go down on price, but I can never go up.

FCBO reply- .....$2500.... ruined Chev wannabe.

Maybe it was 100 half hours... you know how it goes... towing it home took an hour and a half, that doesn’t count. The time I spent diagnosing the timing chain sprocket (new starter, plugs, compression testing, draining fuel tank, charging battery, messing with timing, clearing fuel lines, etc) doesn’t count either. That’s not real car enhancement.
I'm the dumb kid that had originally showed a bit of interest in this car. But given it was not a 70 or 71 I was not very interested. Is the car ruined? No. But if you planned to appeal to the SMALL crowd of people that will actually pay good coin for a C body, you have failed in that attempt. Good luck with the sale I guess.
FWIW... I don't have a problem with Chad... I did what I could to help, he didn't do anything that was so terrible, even if he "went the wrong direction" with some of his work.

A cheap set of usable tires isn't so awful, but I thought this started off with a new set of WSW tires... Dual vs single exhaust... no biggie IMO, but probably louder than I'd prefer (so are some of mine). Incorrect paint color on engine components... he didn't go for something intentionally wrong, I like that he painted the stuff he needed to (and more). The biggest change I can recall, which I disliked, was the Holley and aftermarket intake... not a true tragedy...

Advice I recently gave to a coworker (an accomplished older technician) who was expressing interest in finding "something like" my NYB. Parts and repairs are a PITA when compared to certain GM and Ford products (which can be just as bad for full size cars). The best way to go cruising a full size anything, is to start with a model you love enough to put up with... and love her for what she is. It's better to pay more for a good car, than to expect to be able to bring an neglected one back for the same dollars. I even plugged @commando1 's car as the most debugged NYB I know of.

For Chad, GLWS, but you do realize that tracking hours and trying to make the car's value become a profitable or break even situation is unlikely. There's an ass for every seat... and lots of folks who don't research values very well before buying into old cars. You might find a buyer, FCBO is not usually the place to get top dollar... more like "fair and realistic" money for a car someone here is looking for. The only wrong in your car, is that she is a nice unmolested (mostly) example... and many of us would hate to see her done wrong as a "muscle car" wannabe. The bright exterior color, that you did not change is funny, in that it appeals about as much as the original color... depending on the tastes of the viewer.

If you loved her and built her as a "forever car"... you would have eventually won more folks over. As someone who admits he wishes she was a B Body... any attempts to bring her closer to one will create more outrage. I kinda hope you fall for this car, and start to reevaluate what you want to do with her... or find her another owner who will want to love and preserve her for what she is.
 

TomTom

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Will do! Do you guys know much about my 4 bbl Edelbrock performer intake manifold and 4 bbl carb swap? My question is this. I have a Holley 650 with what looks to be a vacuum secondary, and I also have two thermoquads, one which is in good shape and another that’s complete but needs rebuilt or to be used for parts. I can either use the Holley or use the thermoquad and have plenty of parts if needed. On a 360 2v with 9.1:1 compression and stock cam I’m not sure which way to go. I know I can dial the fuel back, and I always hear Steve Dulcich praising the thermoquad religiously on Roadkill and RK Garage. I have no experience with either.
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Also, I need a tech tip. I’ve noticed that after about 20 mins of driving, if I have the car idling in Drive against the converter the oil light begins to flicker. In N it’s gone. But the longer I drive the worse it seems to get. It gets to the point where I need to have the car at 11-1200 rpm to get the light out. The motor doesn’t knock or anything, but it’s definitely losing pressure the longer I drive. No lifter noise either. My thought was the screen is getting blocked and when I shut car off for a while whatever debris drifts away from the screen. I just don’t know what could possibly have gotten into the case/ pan since the motors never been open, except maybe a couple teeth from timing sprocket. Yesterday I changed the oil/ filter and same thing. Any ideas? Should I pull pan? Maybe sending unit? I don’t know the threshold for the dummy light in this thing...


And a few mins later...


so... Holley or thermoquad?
And increasing low oil pressure the longer I drive.
Thanks guys I appreciate it

On the subject of the oil pressure light coming on. There is a problem, and hopefully it isn't too big yet. I had a similar 71 Fury with a 360. The camshaft plastic teeth all sheared off and wound up in the oil pan/pump pick up screen. If you haven't already, you need to pull and clean the pan, oil pump pick-up tube, and possibly even replace the pump. It's likely those pieces of plastic chunks which are like small pieces of rock were all stopped by the oil filter. It's difficult, but possible to pull the oil pan and do this work with the engine in the car. I actually replaced the crankshaft on a 318 70' Fury without pulling engine. I added electronic ignition on the 71' and damn near got killed when it stalled on a multiple train track crossing. I would have given you a tip about the timing chain, but you've already replaced the chain and gears. If not going a roller route on the small block Mopar,, I always went with a 1958-1959 timing gear set for a Dodge truck. The chain was almost twice as wide, and naturally the cam gear was steel.
 

atlas

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Car is beautiful and you have done a nice job just one thing you have a flat tappet cam so the oil you use has to have a lot of zinc [ZDDP] Vavoline racing oil is great for this motor it is high in zinc. A higher weight would be good to. Atlas
 

Chad

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Thank you gentleman for the input. I blew my shoulder out of socket Monday so I’ve been a bit MIA. I appreciate your guys recent input, it’s good to know some of these things. I haven’t pulled the pan completely, I just dropped it down and scooped from different angles what I could. Also thanks for the input on the high zinc oil. I knew the flat tapper was important to have it for break in, but not all along. I did add a couple courts of hyperlube to thicken up the oil, and it definitely helped. Now I only get a very slight flicker when the engine is full temp on a hot day, when I am resting against the trans.
Also I bought a case (6 cans of the correct Chrysler blue engine enamel) which are available with the car. If I get a chance I’ll do the paint work myself.
Yes the exhaust is too loud. I am going to try and get the car in for an h pipe and a couple large resonators.
The car isn’t ruined, but after getting it to a more done point, I have wished I had spent more time on a few of the things, instead of pushing to get finished.
I am very much enjoying the car. I found a 66 charger 383 4 speed that I am going to buy that’ll be done right. The 71 Polara is out for a new vinyl top.
That car will be in the 3500 range. Runs and drives great. Triple green, very much original.
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Again best wishes to everyone. I did drop the price on the 72 Polara. And if it’s a forum member here, there is another $1000 I’ll come down.
Have a great Sunday everyone
 

Chad

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That green one is a 72
I have a question. With the green car. After the top is done and back window in, I just want to check the car out mechanically, and spruce it up with a wash and wipe it out. I was trying to see exactly what the factory wheel caps look like. Do you have a pic? I just want to put very little money in so I can sell it cheap to it’s next owner. No engine dress up or exhaust (well muffler needs replaced). Motor and trans are great so I’m thinking 32-3500 will be a good deal for what the car is.
 

polara71

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You sure? It has different front side markers than my 72. Mine are big and down below, these are smaller and up towards the top. Could it be a 73? I’ll check the Vin I swore it was a 71

Because your other car has cornering lights, this car has standard marker lights .

And , No , not a 73
 

Chad

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Lol if you don’t like the thread then don’t open it.. 2 more cars in the pit lane one is meh one is amazing. Have fun
 
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