You guys crack me up. I would put lol but it’s more like lmfao. I don’t know what makes you guys tick, but it’s hilarious and I love it. I’m at a car show enjoying myself, people love the car, and I check FCBO and reality strikes! I won’t get $8500 for the car! I can always go down on price, but I can never go up.
FCBO reply- .....$2500.... ruined Chev wannabe.
Maybe it was 100 half hours... you know how it goes... towing it home took an hour and a half, that doesn’t count. The time I spent diagnosing the timing chain sprocket (new starter, plugs, compression testing, draining fuel tank, charging battery, messing with timing, clearing fuel lines, etc) doesn’t count either. That’s not real car enhancement.
FWIW... I don't have a problem with Chad... I did what I could to help, he didn't do anything that was so terrible, even if he "went the wrong direction" with some of his work.I'm the dumb kid that had originally showed a bit of interest in this car. But given it was not a 70 or 71 I was not very interested. Is the car ruined? No. But if you planned to appeal to the SMALL crowd of people that will actually pay good coin for a C body, you have failed in that attempt. Good luck with the sale I guess.
Will do! Do you guys know much about my 4 bbl Edelbrock performer intake manifold and 4 bbl carb swap? My question is this. I have a Holley 650 with what looks to be a vacuum secondary, and I also have two thermoquads, one which is in good shape and another that’s complete but needs rebuilt or to be used for parts. I can either use the Holley or use the thermoquad and have plenty of parts if needed. On a 360 2v with 9.1:1 compression and stock cam I’m not sure which way to go. I know I can dial the fuel back, and I always hear Steve Dulcich praising the thermoquad religiously on Roadkill and RK Garage. I have no experience with either.
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Also, I need a tech tip. I’ve noticed that after about 20 mins of driving, if I have the car idling in Drive against the converter the oil light begins to flicker. In N it’s gone. But the longer I drive the worse it seems to get. It gets to the point where I need to have the car at 11-1200 rpm to get the light out. The motor doesn’t knock or anything, but it’s definitely losing pressure the longer I drive. No lifter noise either. My thought was the screen is getting blocked and when I shut car off for a while whatever debris drifts away from the screen. I just don’t know what could possibly have gotten into the case/ pan since the motors never been open, except maybe a couple teeth from timing sprocket. Yesterday I changed the oil/ filter and same thing. Any ideas? Should I pull pan? Maybe sending unit? I don’t know the threshold for the dummy light in this thing...
And a few mins later...
so... Holley or thermoquad?
And increasing low oil pressure the longer I drive.
Thanks guys I appreciate it
I have a question. With the green car. After the top is done and back window in, I just want to check the car out mechanically, and spruce it up with a wash and wipe it out. I was trying to see exactly what the factory wheel caps look like. Do you have a pic? I just want to put very little money in so I can sell it cheap to it’s next owner. No engine dress up or exhaust (well muffler needs replaced). Motor and trans are great so I’m thinking 32-3500 will be a good deal for what the car is.That green one is a 72
You sure? It has different front side markers than my 72. Mine are big and down below, these are smaller and up towards the top. Could it be a 73? I’ll check the Vin I swore it was a 71