Chads Yellow Polara thread, New dual exhaust, wheels on!Yee!

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LocuMob

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My other point was this could have been a great starting point for someone getting into the hobby. You've done a good job of bringing the car to life, no question there.
 

polara71

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From this (with no cam teeth)
View attachment 201504
To this... cruising up the highway
View attachment 201505
Sitting for 30 years....dead,wont run
View attachment 201506
Healthy, rumbly V8. Buy, drive to car show
View attachment 201507

So, pay $1650 and tow it home, only to discover after countless hours motor has to be torn down? Still a dirty mess, rotten exhaust that doesn’t make it to the axle, and needs lots of other parts.
Or, pay 3-4 times that, car is licensed with collector plate, clean, runs drives excellent tons of new parts, serviced front to back, new healthy dual exhaust, 2 sets of wheels, just enjoy!


If it took you over 100 hours it will take the new owner who gives a damn 200 to undo all you incorrectly did. I presume you are a car salesman on a sleazy lot and do the same snot jobs on your auction cars ? If not you probably should be .... I'll give you 500 for it
 

Chad

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If it took you over 100 hours it will take the new owner who gives a damn 200 to undo all you incorrectly did. I presume you are a car salesman on a sleazy lot and do the same snot jobs on your auction cars ? If not you probably should be .... I'll give you 500 for it
Now Polara71 remember to make sense.... usually when you give people shit, it makes total sense. Painting a timing and valve covers and unbolting a set of wheels is nothing at all. Quite literally a couple hours. Don’t get away from the smack talking based on common sense. I’m really surprised you’ve jumped to sleezy salesman and snot jobs. This is an open forum, I’m not phased but a lot of guys would get chased off with real, like REAL LIFE hurt feelings. I’m not going to do too much back and forth unless it’s all in good fun. Don’t want moderators jumping in, then thread is drowned with you and your disapproval.
It could’ve been a great starting point for someone getting started! After 3 weeks they hadn’t bought the car, so I did. Sometime it’s just the way it goes.
Polara71 acts like I donked it with a General Lee motif.
What’s a suicide ball? Very curious
 

detmatt

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What’s wrong with the General Lee?
 

73 T&C

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Chad.... you worked like hell on it, spent your money, and did it your way....

I say:

Welcome to America! “Where a profit is no crime and a good profit should be celebrated.”

Good luck with your sale and don’t let the bloviating members among us to spoil your fun. We are a little bit too passionate sometimes and forget how we got that way.
 

Chad

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What’s wrong with the General Lee?
Absolutely nothing! Not sure a C body with orange paint, 01, and a confederate flag would fly with you guys though!

Thanks 73 T&C! FWIW if I thought the Polara would make a decent street and strip car I would keep it. I’d rather buy a ratty old Dart, Duster, or Demon and focus my attention on motor, suspension, traction, and ET’s than spend what little extra cash I have to make something an original type cruiser.
BTW if anyone here is interested I really am not looking to sell the car high dollar. All done I’m about $3800 invested. I do want to make some money for my time, but will sell to anyone here at a very good price.
 

Tobias74

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You guys are my kind of people! I have covered a lot the reasoning behind the wheel purchase. Regardless if they stayed on this car or not, I needed replacements to be able to drive the car, and the setup and great deal in my eyes seemed to be lots and lots of value for the money. The juice was worth the squeeze. I could trade these wheels, sell them for a profit, and have extra cash to get something that was better for the car overall. These wheels fixed the immediate issue, as well as opened up more options for other wheel and tire packages down the road. Plus it was a good lesson for me, which is probably most important. The exhaust was needed, and a subtle dual setup doesn’t take away from any originality of the car IMO. Single exhaust systems aren’t bad, but there isn’t anything (except maybe a Cadillac or Lincoln) that a mild dual system will hurt, except for exit location, gaudy tips, or obnoxious mufflers. Aside from that I really have just been focused on the reliability, items that don’t function needing repair, and cleanup of the car. The color on the motor was a mistake. Oreillys claimed to have ordered Chrysler blue engine paint, and by the time I had my first color coat on and noticed it was off, I was in full tilt to get car back together and back on the road. It’d be easy enough to pull valve covers and paint timing cover on the car the real Chrysler blue.
I’m not sure what the Chev engine dress up is, but if you’re referring to the 4 bbl setup I have ready to go on, then I can explain at least my POV behind it.
After driving the car the first few days, I really was beginning to enjoy it. IMO I feel like it was about 80% of the power and torque I think the car really needs to be as enjoyable as possible. I have lots of experience with cars, driving, racing, and road tripping. I’m not looking for a hot rod, but there’s a level of acceleration that really delivers a pleasure experience. The sound of the exhaust, the rumble of the OHV V8, and a level of acceleration on kickdown and on ramps that needs to be on tap when spirited driving is asked of the car. I felt another 20% power increase would put the car there. I like the highway gear, so I wasn’t going to mess with that. I want to keep the factory a/c (minus an R134 conversion), so that needed to stay on. Obviously bumping the power was the most suitable course. Not only will it pick up some low end power and torque, but the top end can be more tunable and increased as well. This’ll help acceleration, the exhaust will definitely sound better with added power, and the sound of the secondaries at full trot is quite a good sound/ feeling as well. I will keep the factory mani/ carb with the car, and any future owner can easily return the car to stock form.
Lastly I had the carb laying around, and the manifold was only $70. For that kind of low investment it wasn’t hard for me to move forward with the 4 bbl swap.

Again I love the input. 2 weeks ago this car didn’t run. Sat since 1988. I’ve been thrashing on this thing to bring it back to life. At every turn I’ve learned a lot. Made some mistakes. One thing that’s awesome though is I get to be driving and enjoying the car everyday.
I wouldn’t be worried for the next owner. I wouldn’t be worried for the car. I’ll make sure the car goes to a proper owner who will continue these ideas you guys are helping instill in me as we go. The original equipment will all stay with the car. I am not planning on just selling the car ASAP. I’m going to drive it and continue to fix it as I go. If someone comes along that appreciates the car and wants to buy it, I’ll sell. At this point though if the car was alive or had a soul, it would be very happy to be in its current state, especially after sitting not running and being neglected for 29 years. Actually! I have some interior pics I finally cleaned her out and cleaned her up.
View attachment 201121 View attachment 201122 View attachment 201123 View attachment 201124 View attachment 201125
amazing the carpet, headliner, dash, and seats on this car. Such good condition. Still needs real proper detail, but not full of junk anymore either way
I like those wheels they fit great in my opinion and for the money you can’t go wrong is a really cool car Chad
 

cantflip

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Absolutely nothing! Not sure a C body with orange paint, 01, and a confederate flag would fly with you guys though!

Thanks 73 T&C! FWIW if I thought the Polara would make a decent street and strip car I would keep it. I’d rather buy a ratty old Dart, Duster, or Demon and focus my attention on motor, suspension, traction, and ET’s than spend what little extra cash I have to make something an original type cruiser.
BTW if anyone here is interested I really am not looking to sell the car high dollar. All done I’m about $3800 invested. I do want to make some money for my time, but will sell to anyone here at a very good price.
Thanks Chad... I don't have time to go deep right now, but I agree that you haven't ruined her. A rebuild of the 2bbl and the Holley in the trunk would have been the biggest changes to your actions I would have recommended.

You are correct, that C Body will not make the street/strip car you want... and appears to be too nice to do that to her. I won't speculate price, yours is not a model I watch... but you might make a few bucks from an enthusiastic new owner and save this one... so for that, thank you.

I'm glad you realized this wasn't what you wanted before things got too radical. :drama:
 

Chad

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Thanks a lot for understanding. I do very much appreciate these cars, and it was actually this car that began a newly revived muscle car idea in my head. After I bought the car I started looking at speed parts and posi’s. Then being here on FCBO I figured out that these aren’t the cars to do so.
 

Chad

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Manifolds machined and gaskets in. I was surprised at how warped the manifolds were. I had heavy heavy grit on a large belt sander and it took quite a bit to get 1/7 and 2/8 flush with the inner ports. I did put a dab of high temp RTV on all 4 water jackets studs around gaskets and at the back of 7 and 8 where the ports seemed very narrow

 

Chad

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Hello everyone. I’m up early because I need to detail my car and do a few other things before the registration for a local Mopar meet. I have a couple quick questions that I want direct feedback from owners on, rather than factory suggestions.

What is the best timing setting for the 360? When I first got the car running it seemed to like nearly 20 degrees at idle, but as I drove it more it started to stumble more. So the other day I did some adjustments and I’m right at 11 degrees at idle, and yes I blocked off the vacuum advance on distributor while setting the timing. Do you guys have a solid setup on timing that you have widdled down to perfection?
Right now it runs good, I need to turn the idle up slightly as it seems to be around 550-570 against the converter. Lastly, initially the temp gauge worked perfectly, then intermittently, now rarely. Being the gas gauge has been INOP all along, I’m beginning to suspect the ballast resistor in the dash. I have no idea what this looks like or even remotely where it is. I had cluster slightly apart cause I was trying to fix lighting for cluster (didn’t figure out) but now it definitely needs to come out for gauges. Any insight on where or what this is within dash I would appreciate, as well as the ideal timing setting, and info on the dash lights would be awesome too. All the original wiring and fuses are extremely spotless and untampered with, clearly never any moisture. Thanks
 

detmatt

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This is definitely not the car for a posi.
I’m a big block guy so I won’t be able to help you on the timing issue except to say put a vacuum gauge on it and set the timing that way.
Your dash lights are likely because our panel dimmer is shot.
 

Chad

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I wouldn’t put a posi in his car. No need for it. Have to be able to spin one tire to have the need to spin a 2nd :(
 

Samplingman

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@Chad: I really can't get a handle on you to figure out who you are.
3972CB9F-87FF-4E73-8236-F907CE6DB041.jpeg
 

Samplingman

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Well played “Chad”. Nothing like 6 pages of bullshit with my Saturday morning coffee. The opening poll was a nice touch, good to get any potential “fish” engaged early on. Good luck selling a $2500 car for $8500. I’m sure you will be able to rope in an “enthusiast” at the show with the rattle can engine compartment touch up and the cheap-ass chebbie wheels. But this is ‘merica, and that’s how we keep the economy going, won’t begrudge you that.
 
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