Cold Start Issues

Bchboy33

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I have a 383 2 barrel that is giving me trouble on a cold start. I pump the pedal once and crank it. It fires up then dies. I try cranking 2-3 more times but it won't fire at all. I have a feeling it is the choke, but I am not sure how to resolve it. Thank you. I will try to upload a video of me trying to start it.

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The choke in the photo is full open, it should close on a cold engine. Check to be sure the butterfly is not stuck and then check to see if the linkage is attached to the spring in the manifold.

Dave
 
As Big John says look at the manual as there is a starting procedure as well as some checks you can do to make sure it is set properly.
One full press to the floor should squirt fuel into the intake and set the fast idle cam so you have a higher idle at start. Also as stated above when cold (even around 70 degrees) the thermostatic choke should be closed. Vacuum and heat will open it as it is needed
In some instances I have found my choke to "overcenter" so the weight of the linkage will not pull it closed as the motor cools down. There are a couple of little nubs down in the throat that are supposed to keep the choke butterfly from standing straight up. I had to tweak the bottoms of my butterfly (probably less than a millimeter) so it would hit the stops before it over- centered.
Before you do that, rattle the choke linkage a little when the engine is cold and see if the choke drops down. If not try flicking it lightly towards the closed position ( gravity should take over) and it should close. If neither of those things happen. You need to get in the service manual and figure out the choke adjustment and the fast idle cam settings.
 
On a cold engine, cold day, my car does not start with one pump.
Another example, on 1st start of a rebuilt engine, Hughes recommends 7 pedal pumps.
If you need the car to get to work, you may want to try more than one pump until you can get into all the adjusting above.
 
Good heavens! ALL of those pumps? By about 1/2 throttle, the accel pump has already pumped its full stroke, so no need to go past that, by observation.

If the engine was hot when it was parked, the choke would be fully open, but trying to close due to the thermostat's spring pressure. Just move the throttle a little bit and the choke plate will close on its own. Then, when the engine first starts, the vacuum break/choke pull-off will pull it open a bit so it does not flood or run too rich. As the engine warms, the choke thermostat (in the intake manifold) will get hotter and relax its spring tension and let the choke plate open fully.

To me, if the ignition system is in good shape, that 1 pump should be enough to get things fired off, on a cold engine. If you might want to use two pumps, I would suspect that should be plenty to puddle fuel in the intake manifold's plenum. Don't want to flood it before it starts! OR hit the starter and then do 1 pump as the engine is turning over.

That is a very nice looking Stromberg!

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
If that engine it cold, your choke is not working. Stuck at choke shaft (doubtful) or thermostatic spring is broken/inoperative, where rod goes down in manifold.
 
If that engine it cold, your choke is not working. Stuck at choke shaft (doubtful) or thermostatic spring is broken/inoperative, where rod goes down in manifold.
I think you are correct. I am assuming I remove the two bolts on either side to access the spring? I did a search but can't find that spring. Any suggestions?
 
You will have to buy the whole divorced choke unit ( the two bolts hold it down).
It may be broken so I would pull it first to make sure it's non repairable
 
I have a 383 2 barrel that is giving me trouble on a cold start. I pump the pedal once and crank it. It fires up then dies. I try cranking 2-3 more times but it won't fire at all. I have a feeling it is the choke, but I am not sure how to resolve it. Thank you. I will try to upload a video of me trying to start it.]Quote]

Make sure your accelerator pump is delivering two full streams throughout the full travel of the pump before you start adjusting your choke.
 
You can spend $10-20 and convert that choke to a manual one VERY EASILY with that Stromberg! I did so the first year I had mine, and still use a manual choke Stromberg nearly 6 years later. One advantage of this is that you can get some finer control over the idle when you want that. Its really easy to do man. Give it a try.
 
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