confused
- Thread starter nikko
- Start date
The manual brake pedal has a different location for the drive rod to the master cylinder, this is to give greater thrust on the manual application. Usually the power brake booster mounts lower on a different bracket and pedal assembly.
Dave
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
For my 1970 Fury, it was true. I had to use a power brake pedal.
Brake Pedals: Power Pedal pivot/swivel is higher. Power brake pedal is taller vertically and uses upper bolt hole of firewall bracket. Manual brake pedal is shorter vertically and uses lower bolt hole of firewall bracket.
Power is on left
Yes, true.
Jim 68cuda
Well-Known Member
I hate power brakes on 60's Mopars. I have manual brakes on most of my old Mopars, but power drum brakes on my 66 Fury and power disc brakes on my 68 Charger. I like the feel of the manual brakes better (with drum or disc brakes). The power brakes just don't really provide the feedback of how much or how little effort to apply. It almost feels like you're disconnected from the brakes and the application of pressure is a suggestion to someone else who's actually applying the brakes. Plus, anything you need to do under the dash to the brake pedal assembly is harder and more involved. Instead of attaching the master cylinder directly onto the studs on the fire wall with easy access to the four nuts holding it on, instead the master cylinder is attached to the booster which in turn has studs that go through the fire wall and you need to contort yourself under the dash to, by some miracle, get all four nuts onto the studs on the back of the booster. That part is slightly easier with the seat and steering column removed, but, it can be done by a contortionist with the steering column dropped (and the seat in place to support the column) rather than completely removed. Now, after everything is assembled, pray that all the new pieces, hardware and new booster, made in China, all work together as they are supposed to without modification. If they do work, there may still be a chance that you'll have to take it all back apart when you find the brakes drag because the moving parts that extend through the firewall to connect to the brake pedal might not be machined exactly right and might bind up just enough to make the brakes drag and also keep the brake lights from going off which in turn ends up draining the battery. For my Charger, the first new booster was defective. Had to take it back apart and get a replacement. Second new booster was fine (so far), but then the pedal linkage attached to the back of the booster was binding. Had to get new hardware and remove the booster again to attach it. But, the new pieces required some filing to make them work without binding.
If you're intent on doing the swap, it's easy. There should be quite a few people hear who can sell you a correct for your car bolt in power brake pedal assembly (65 - 68 C body).
@SGT FURY is one I'd ask.
@pomonamissel is another
@C Body Bob is another
@SGT FURY is one I'd ask.
@pomonamissel is another
@C Body Bob is another
C Body Bob
Old Man with a Hat
Thanks Ross, but I’m currently out.
fury fan
Senior Member
I agree. I have manual discs on my 68 Fury and absolutely love them.
No 'touchy' or 'getting used to them' like a PB car.
Well, maybe you do hafta get used to manual brakes!
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Yes, manual brakes are simple for repairs, can't argue that.
I replaced boosters on two '66 Monaco's last year, seats in and steering column up, and it wasn't something I'd want to do every day, because the getting up or down was the hardest part. Did have one nut that gave me trouble on one car, the other went fine. I took the old master cylinders off from the donor car, installed the dual circuit masters after the booster was installed.
stubs300
Senior Member
I would ditch that single M/C and upgrade to a dual unit, but that's just me!! You can thank me later!
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