Converting from RV-2 to Sanden

Big_John

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got pissed trying to figure some details, so I broke down and bought one. Haven't bought any of the hose making supplies yet.
View attachment 131832
I bought one of those. It works great.

I couldn't find someone that would make the hoses for me at a decent price... and that I could trust to do it right. It was so much easier for me to crimp the hoses as I went rather than figuring them all out and then taking them somewhere to be screwed up... I mean crimped....
 

70bigblockdodge

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The tip about flushing stuff with brake clean and denatured alcohol is good. I will definitely be doing my original condensor and the hardlines that way.

Any thoughts as to whether it's worthwhile or adviseable to flush the rubber hoses that way?

What about the suction line with muffler (part rubber and metal) and the high pressure discharge line with muffler coming off the compressor?

My evaporator will be new so no worries there.

Thoughts?
I don't know what is in the muffler but it is not needed if not using the RV2 compressor. It just evens the pulses of a RV2 (like a Harley compared to a 4 cyl Japanese bike). I assume it has a baffle and open chamber, like a muffler. I did use my old hoses except for suction because it was from a small block and too short. I have lost some 134 over a few years, not much. I believe I had mine too full because of a leaky shrader valve and because I originally thought it would not last the weekend I put more in thinking it might make it through Sunday of the Nats on the way home and that was 3-4 years ago.
Since I used my original lines the original drier fit best it made sense to use it, it is a 3 piece design brazed together. I sweated it apart removed and cleaned the desicant replaced with the desicant and filters from a replacement (with wrong fittings btw) cut open and gutted, brazed it back together to make my drier 134 compatible.
I flushed everything with brake clean and alcohol because I am a cheap bastard and when I saw the price of proper flush fluid well pppfffftttt on that. I think you would be fine with just brake clean as I have found out recently, that good brake clean (red CRC can) also produces phosgene gas when burnt or welded on. I would put them in compatible categories. For those of you in CA disregard this, your state deemed using the good brake clean as something the average consumer cannot handle, so you can only get the green cans and we know those will not remove oil from anything.
My 2 cents if you are replacing parts is the Sandens are easier less power to turn, lighter. RV2 is stone axe reliable, heavy, expensive. The condenser is the key, 134 freon molecules are waaaay smaller than the giant R12 molecules so the big tubes in old condensers do not remove heat from freon as well.
 

cantflip

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I don't know what is in the muffler but it is not needed if not using the RV2 compressor. It just evens the pulses of a RV2 (like a Harley compared to a 4 cyl Japanese bike). I assume it has a baffle and open chamber, like a muffler. I did use my old hoses except for suction because it was from a small block and too short. I have lost some 134 over a few years, not much. I believe I had mine too full because of a leaky shrader valve and because I originally thought it would not last the weekend I put more in thinking it might make it through Sunday of the Nats on the way home and that was 3-4 years ago.
Since I used my original lines the original drier fit best it made sense to use it, it is a 3 piece design brazed together. I sweated it apart removed and cleaned the desicant replaced with the desicant and filters from a replacement (with wrong fittings btw) cut open and gutted, brazed it back together to make my drier 134 compatible.
I flushed everything with brake clean and alcohol because I am a cheap bastard and when I saw the price of proper flush fluid well pppfffftttt on that. I think you would be fine with just brake clean as I have found out recently, that good brake clean (red CRC can) also produces phosgene gas when burnt or welded on. I would put them in compatible categories. For those of you in CA disregard this, your state deemed using the good brake clean as something the average consumer cannot handle, so you can only get the green cans and we know those will not remove oil from anything.
My 2 cents if you are replacing parts is the Sandens are easier less power to turn, lighter. RV2 is stone axe reliable, heavy, expensive. The condenser is the key, 134 freon molecules are waaaay smaller than the giant R12 molecules so the big tubes in old condensers do not remove heat from freon as well.
You rebuilt the drier??? You cheap bastard, you ARE my hero.:poke:
Well. yah, but, have you ever made a.c. hoses... :poke:
Not with this tool... but the choice to you is... you can borrow it and leave me out of the equation, you can be my guinea pig, or you can wait for me to finally get around to using it myself and then ask me to make them. It's probably not a good bet that I will actually use it right away since the parts car hoses are good enough for now...
 

cantflip

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So okay, I do have to admit, you need to get to the shop and that may well be a 100 degree differential...... but at -40 I don't go outside unless there's a serious, (life or death), need.

Makes me wonder when you would get to use the A/C...
 

commando1

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(1) you can borrow it and leave me out of the equation,
(2) you can be my guinea pig, or
(3) you can wait for me to finally get around to using it myself and then ask me to make them.
#1 puts too much pressure on me.
#2 puts to much pressure on you.
#3 is a good reason to let my local guy do it.
 

66Newyorker

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I got my kit to mount my compressor from Classic Auto Air.
IMG_0183.JPG


You can see it in this picture the rear mounting point for the compressor attaches to the cylinder head. Just another option.
 

cantflip

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#1 puts too much pressure on me.
#2 puts to much pressure on you.
#3 is a good reason to let my local guy do it.
Nah... I'll just borrow your ATC II tester to keep things simple... no pressure except on the hoses.:lol:
 

66Newyorker

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IMG_0070.JPG

No my wife likes the sound of the 4 barrel opening when she goes to pass another car. This is what I had before the engine swap last year.
 

commando1

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Alrighty, then, I just ordered the BPE 4700 Bracket and a GENUINE Sanden ( not a generic aftermarket name) U4664 Compressor. Bouchelon confirmed the 4700 is the correct bracket for my '76 440 w/A.C and Federal P.S. pump.
A genuine Sanden is about $75 more than the ebay units but I think that extra 75 is a good insurance policy.
We'll see how well this Sanden conversion goes in a Formal.
FWIW, the U4664 truck compressor is the highest output verson of this style Sanden that is used in these conversions.

PicsArt_07-10-02.15.40.png
 
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