Disc Brake Master Cylinder On 70 Newport
- Thread starter Shamu70
- Start date
It's a little more than that.
You'll need to bench bleed the MC before you bolt it on. That's fairly easy to do, but some skip and regret it later.
Bleed screws are on the caliper for the fronts and at the back of the wheel cylinder on the backing plate.
I suggest you download a Factory Service Manual here: Service Manuals – MyMopar I also suggest you but some flare nut wrenches for the lines. Yea... You can use regular open end wrenches, but the flare wrenches won't slip. Harbor Freight has some economical ones that will do the job. Double-End SAE Flare Nut Wrench Set, 5 Piece
Let me see if I can find a good YouTube video that may help.
Here's a good video that explains a lot and shows you how to bench bleed. It'll start past their sales pitches and general screwing around. You don't need to watch much more than the bleeding.
Yea, it's Ford stuff, but it's all the same.
Yea, it's Ford stuff, but it's all the same.
And bleeding the brakes... Starts at about 10 secs in.
These guys have some great info, just have to get through some of the nonsense and selling.
These guys have some great info, just have to get through some of the nonsense and selling.
Changing the cyl itself is no big deal. Just unbolt and put the new one on.
As to the lines, you would be advised to get a "line wrench" of the appropriate sizes as they will not round-off the nuts like a normal wrench CAN. There are also some "bleeder kits" for the master cyl you can find, too. Some plastic nuts, plastic lines, and a holder that holds onto the edge of the master cyl reservoir section.
Bleed the cyl on the car that way. After that, then I hook up the lines. THEN, to get any air out (from experience, just a tiny bit at the connection, which might have crept in, I gently push the brake pedal down to check things. If good, then I'll quickly cycle the pedal, short and FAST strokes, to simulate what happens when you use a scan tool to bleed a modern master cyl. Those quick pressure spikes will compress any air bubbles and when that pressure is quickly released, they should migrate upward as they temporarily expand, not unlike when they use a system vacuum to pull on the brake system on the assy line before the brake fluid is put in. Then, after a few days driving, I'll re-check the brake fluid level. PLUS driving carefully and being attentive to any brake pull feels, too!
Perhaps I've been lucky this way, but I've done it on several different cars and it has always worked the same. If all of the air which might get into the system (after bleeding the master cyl on the car, with the kit), the only air should be a the line connection, which should not migrate to the wheels. So the pressure spike/release theory should work well.
I learned of the way brake fluid is installed at the assy plant while on a tour of the Arlington, TX GM assy plant. They draw a vacuum on the cooling system, when the vac indicates no leaks, then the measured amount of coolant goes in. Plain and simple. Same with the brake system, hydraulic power steering, and a/c. Then, on the "Final Check" chassis dyno section, they take the car to 60mph and apply the brakes. Being a 4-wheel contraption, it checks all four wheels for brake balance, engine power, transmission shifting, and wheel alignment at the same time. Takes about 2 minutes or less.
Just my experiences, proceed at your own desires/risks.
CBODY67
As to the lines, you would be advised to get a "line wrench" of the appropriate sizes as they will not round-off the nuts like a normal wrench CAN. There are also some "bleeder kits" for the master cyl you can find, too. Some plastic nuts, plastic lines, and a holder that holds onto the edge of the master cyl reservoir section.
Bleed the cyl on the car that way. After that, then I hook up the lines. THEN, to get any air out (from experience, just a tiny bit at the connection, which might have crept in, I gently push the brake pedal down to check things. If good, then I'll quickly cycle the pedal, short and FAST strokes, to simulate what happens when you use a scan tool to bleed a modern master cyl. Those quick pressure spikes will compress any air bubbles and when that pressure is quickly released, they should migrate upward as they temporarily expand, not unlike when they use a system vacuum to pull on the brake system on the assy line before the brake fluid is put in. Then, after a few days driving, I'll re-check the brake fluid level. PLUS driving carefully and being attentive to any brake pull feels, too!
Perhaps I've been lucky this way, but I've done it on several different cars and it has always worked the same. If all of the air which might get into the system (after bleeding the master cyl on the car, with the kit), the only air should be a the line connection, which should not migrate to the wheels. So the pressure spike/release theory should work well.
I learned of the way brake fluid is installed at the assy plant while on a tour of the Arlington, TX GM assy plant. They draw a vacuum on the cooling system, when the vac indicates no leaks, then the measured amount of coolant goes in. Plain and simple. Same with the brake system, hydraulic power steering, and a/c. Then, on the "Final Check" chassis dyno section, they take the car to 60mph and apply the brakes. Being a 4-wheel contraption, it checks all four wheels for brake balance, engine power, transmission shifting, and wheel alignment at the same time. Takes about 2 minutes or less.
Just my experiences, proceed at your own desires/risks.
CBODY67
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