Disc Brakes for an Imperial

macr0w

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I copied this from the RamMan's page.
Where is he getting a rotor with 5 on 5.5" lug pattern? The lady on the phone said the rotors can be purchased at any auto parts store.
What car would they have come off of? If a 67 has 5 on 5" that's not the same as 5 on 5.5'.
How can he still be in business if he is selling something that he can't deliver?
If I bought this kit would I receive rotors with something other than 5 on 5.5"?
The only reason I'm asking so many questions about this guy is that he seems to be the only game in town when it comes to front brake conversions for the Imperial.
I know a bunch of you guys are saying to keep the drums and I understand that. The problem is getting new drums. All 4 of the drums on my son's car are at the end of their life. The guy at my local trusted shop said they were too thin to turn again. One of them is gouged up pretty good.
So, an easy, replaceable disc setup seems like a good option.
This is all very confusing. We have a retailer who says I have this kit for your car that uses factory components and we have a community of users that says don't trust him.
Very confusing indeed. :confused:

IMPERIAL (1962-1972) FRONT DISC KIT (Standard Rotors)

  • TRM Inc. is the undisputed Mopar Brake Expert
  • Over 500 people per day watch our YouTube Videos
  • Factory original components (as stated in DISC-O-TECH article)
  • Used on original Mopar C-Bodies 1965-1973
  • Massive factory 11.75" x 1.25" thick rotors (5 x 5.5 bolt pattern)
  • Stops a 6000 pound beast repeatedly from 60 mph
  • Big bearing, heavy duty spindles
  • 100 % complete
  • Factory maximum performance system
  • TRM Inc. exclusive
 

macr0w

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Please keep in mind that I am new to Mopar.
I have very little practical experience with these cars and I just want to get my son's vehicle repaired and safe for him to drive.
I like the idea of a little update on the brake system. I'm not a purist.
Not yet anyway. :D
 

cantflip

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.

How can he still be in business if he is selling something that he can't deliver?

The only reason I'm asking so many questions about this guy is that he seems to be the only game in town when it comes to front brake conversions for the Imperial.
I edited your post to let you explain the issue to yourself.

I'm sure the bulk of his business is from folks looking for more common stuff and not trying to engineer that which never existed in the first place. The sad part is he continues to try to quick solve to fulfill desires like yours and doesn't seem to put in the effort to assure proper fit and function.

Please keep in mind that I am new to Mopar.
I have very little practical experience with these cars and I just want to get my son's vehicle repaired and safe for him to drive.

Not meaning to offend you, but the issue isn't that you are new to Mopar... it's that you are entirely out of your depth and seem to think you can talk, wish and search your way into making this dream a reality.

The entire "doesn't know crap about cars" universe likes to think there is some easy to purchase kit that will fulfill all of their desires and create some spectacular result, despite the fact that so many wiser folk continually tell them about the downsides and flat out that it won't work. Worse yet, in my experience a large percentage of those who do follow through on the half baked plans, become nearly impossible to convince that they did not improve the situation with their modifications.

I have weighed in on too many disc brake conversion threads to count... as a rule, I am usually against it... but IF the person HAS to do it, I strongly encourage them to do the research the find parts that have a chance of working successfully. Brakes are a system that MUST be comprised of parts that will work together. Within a single model year there are so many different key components based on which brake option was originally installed... it would be impossible to create a simple "one size fits all" kit.

I've seen too many half baked threads about folks running disc masters on drum boosters and the person is fully convinced their modification is somehow better, even though they can no longer generate the force required for a high speed panic stop.

The easiest way to do what you want is to start reengineering the suspension and steering systems so that the brake system from a late model truck/suv/etc of similar weight can be used. Then you must have the bulkhead (firewall) and pedal assemblies modified to match the same application. This is the simplest way to get "disc brakes in a box" for an obscure old application. You'll find its not practical either.

Dual master upgrade isn't so hard and would add safety. Proper restoration of the entire brake system with quality parts and proper adjustment will make your car as good as she is likely to get. If the original parts can't be bought at any price, you're in a pickle and the best I can say is you will have to do the research to assure that every single part of the system works. No company that I am aware of can truthfully offer you that.

I am a career tech, recognized as highly trained/skilled by 3 manufacturers, have laid hands on most brands built within my lifetime and am an alpha amongst my peers. I say this to drive home the point that my advice and resume may be equal or better than the shop you have been speaking with and worth considering. Several of the other folks who have weighed in have my deepest respect and some have backgrounds that surpass mine. I know its the internet and everyone has an opinion, but you've been receiving some of the best advice available and still don't seem to want to accept it.

If you really want the kid to be safe, stick him in a late model with a good crash rating... he's supposed to wreck his first car anyhow.
 

detmatt

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Murray said providing a whole set of drums shouldn’t be a problem and you @macr0w could maybe even get everything else from him too.
 

macr0w

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I edited your post to let you explain the issue to yourself.

I'm sure the bulk of his business is from folks looking for more common stuff and not trying to engineer that which never existed in the first place. The sad part is he continues to try to quick solve to fulfill desires like yours and doesn't seem to put in the effort to assure proper fit and function.



Not meaning to offend you, but the issue isn't that you are new to Mopar... it's that you are entirely out of your depth and seem to think you can talk, wish and search your way into making this dream a reality.

The entire "doesn't know crap about cars" universe likes to think there is some easy to purchase kit that will fulfill all of their desires and create some spectacular result, despite the fact that so many wiser folk continually tell them about the downsides and flat out that it won't work. Worse yet, in my experience a large percentage of those who do follow through on the half baked plans, become nearly impossible to convince that they did not improve the situation with their modifications.

I have weighed in on too many disc brake conversion threads to count... as a rule, I am usually against it... but IF the person HAS to do it, I strongly encourage them to do the research the find parts that have a chance of working successfully. Brakes are a system that MUST be comprised of parts that will work together. Within a single model year there are so many different key components based on which brake option was originally installed... it would be impossible to create a simple "one size fits all" kit.

I've seen too many half baked threads about folks running disc masters on drum boosters and the person is fully convinced their modification is somehow better, even though they can no longer generate the force required for a high speed panic stop.

The easiest way to do what you want is to start reengineering the suspension and steering systems so that the brake system from a late model truck/suv/etc of similar weight can be used. Then you must have the bulkhead (firewall) and pedal assemblies modified to match the same application. This is the simplest way to get "disc brakes in a box" for an obscure old application. You'll find its not practical either.

Dual master upgrade isn't so hard and would add safety. Proper restoration of the entire brake system with quality parts and proper adjustment will make your car as good as she is likely to get. If the original parts can't be bought at any price, you're in a pickle and the best I can say is you will have to do the research to assure that every single part of the system works. No company that I am aware of can truthfully offer you that.

I am a career tech, recognized as highly trained/skilled by 3 manufacturers, have laid hands on most brands built within my lifetime and am an alpha amongst my peers. I say this to drive home the point that my advice and resume may be equal or better than the shop you have been speaking with and worth considering. Several of the other folks who have weighed in have my deepest respect and some have backgrounds that surpass mine. I know its the internet and everyone has an opinion, but you've been receiving some of the best advice available and still don't seem to want to accept it.

If you really want the kid to be safe, stick him in a late model with a good crash rating... he's supposed to wreck his first car anyhow.

This is not entirely true and it is kind of offensive.
I don't understand how you would know what my "depth" is.
How do you know what I am doing?
I have heeded and thanked everyone for all the the great advice I've been given.
I haven't decided on a plan or spent any money except on brake shoes, spring kits and wheel cylinder kits to rebuild the brakes I have.
I'm just doing research and asking questions. The only reason I am still asking questions is because almost every person/company/link I've been provided has turned out to be a dead end. I'm not trying invent anything. I'm just looking at products and sellers and asking questions.
My booster is currently at Booster Dewey. I talked to Murray Park about getting some new drums and a few other things.
Thanks for your help.
 

Big_John

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This is not entirely true and it is kind of offensive.
I don't understand how you would know what my "depth" is.
How do you know what I am doing?
I have heeded and thanked everyone for all the the great advice I've been given.
I haven't decided on a plan or spent any money except on brake shoes, spring kits and wheel cylinder kits to rebuild the brakes I have.
I'm just doing research and asking questions. The only reason I am still asking questions is because almost every person/company/link I've been provided has turned out to be a dead end. I'm not trying invent anything. I'm just looking at products and sellers and asking questions.
My booster is currently at Booster Dewey. I talked to Murray Park about getting some new drums and a few other things.
Thanks for your help.
Don't take Jeff's advice as anything "offensive". He's trying to be the voice of reason.

You're on the learning curve of dealing with Mopars, then another learning curve of dealing with drum brakes, then you've tossed "Imperial" into the mix. We've had to deal with guys here that have bought the crappy conversions with the mismatch of parts and seen them struggle. None of us want to see you struggle any more than you have to. We've been down the "dead ends" already.

I think you are trying to do this right... and conversion to discs seems at first glance to be the reasonable way. In this case, it just isn't. Dealing with Murray Park is a lot easier than dealing with the Ram Man and you'll be happier and the car will be safer in the long run.
 

Big_John

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The guy at my local trusted shop said they were too thin to turn again. One of them is gouged up pretty good.

From the pics, I'm not surprised that the gouged up one might be junk, but did your "trusted shop" actually measure the drum? The mindset for the last 40 years has been to replace the drums/rotors and not to turn. I think that's been more a profit/time decision but it's filtered down to where it's never even considered.

I would have asked for a measurement... I'll bet he just looked at them. These drums had a lot of "meat" on them to begin with.
 

USSMOPAR

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Dear OP
if you choose to stay with drum brakes be sure to upgrade the brake shoe linings to modern day linings like carbon metallic linings. The stopping power of the boat will be excellent and you won't have to worry about fade using asbestos and other lining materials. And NO the linings do not chew up the drums. You are wasting your efforts if you stay with drums and do not upgrade the linings. I have upgraded more than several drum brake cars with the modern linings and all the owners are smiling...
BTW the shoes need to be arc ground to fit the drums, this is very important for full shoe contact to the drum.
 

cantflip

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This is not entirely true and it is kind of offensive.
I don't understand how you would know what my "depth" is.
How do you know what I am doing?
I have heeded and thanked everyone for all the the great advice I've been given.
I haven't decided on a plan or spent any money except on brake shoes, spring kits and wheel cylinder kits to rebuild the brakes I have.
I'm just doing research and asking questions. The only reason I am still asking questions is because almost every person/company/link I've been provided has turned out to be a dead end. I'm not trying invent anything. I'm just looking at products and sellers and asking questions.
My booster is currently at Booster Dewey. I talked to Murray Park about getting some new drums and a few other things.
Thanks for your help.
Fair enough, I was blunt. Glad to hear your spending on reasonable items.
 

Big_John

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Your bearing thread reminded me about this. You're probably all set, but this came up in the 300 International club discussion. For anyone else in the same predicament looking for a solution!

These guys will reline a worn out brake drum with a new cast liner and arc the shoes to fit. Yes, they do Mopars.
https://www.jgrelining.com/
 
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