disk brake conversion:
- Thread starter bulldogchesty
- Start date
thrashingcows
Senior Member
I converted my 68 T/C wagon to 4 wheel disc brakes.....regret doing the rear since it has given me a lot of grief for virtually no gains...other then curb appeal I guess. I am running a big bore 1.125" I think, disc/drum MC off a full size rwd 80's mopar car...aluminum body with a plastic tank. Removed the proportioning valve for the car and running the front calipers straight off the MC, and the rear circuit runs through an adjustable brake pressure valve.
Did the MC bolt-on?
I want disc brakes to rear becouse i have big 6 piston brakes at front and i dont want to it be so out of balance..
thrashingcows
Senior Member
I had to get a 4 bolt to 2 bolt adapter....found it on E-bay I think. and other then having to adjust the length of the brake booster push rod a little shorter it was an easy install.
John Kirby
Active Member
This one of the last areas my 66 NYer needs work on to make it drivable. 20 years ago I swapped in spindles, rotors, calipers and master cylinder from a 72 Newport. Worked great. Much smoother stopping and they didn't wear out near as fast. Dual chamber was also a plus. About 6 years ago I replaced the master cylinder and booster with a Cardone version since the master cylinder puked fluid inside it. Now it takes the leg of Hercules to stop. Since the car had been sitting in the garage since the replacement I figured the calipers may have frozen. So I replaced them along with the master cylinder. Helped a small amount. I also installed a different cam and lost a lot of vacuum. So I installed a vacuum pump to fix that issue. Still having the same problem. So it looks like the booster may be the issue. What year is a good choice for a replacement? The master cylinder looks identical to the photos above. Some have mentioned a dual diaphragm version. What year had this and is it a bolt on deal or requiring a bit of surgery?
Calipers front and rear can be overrated...
twostick
Senior Member
What booster did you use when you did the swap, the original drum booster or the disc brake one from the 72?
Kevin
Definitely not Shimano. Are these from Sram?
Wollfen
Old Man with a Hat
If you are using the original power booster fitted to the car then yes it needs to be tossed and a later one put in. You could look for a dual diaphragm unit in a late 60's disk brake car or simpler still order any booster from the 1969 to 73 disk brake cars. You should also pick up the backing plate to suit the booster as a just in case. All of it should simply bolt in without any modifications.
a67furyman
Member
Hey Guys,
This is a lot of trial and error.I have done this as well. Net affect marginal, compared to daily driver. So, do you want to make your car into some thing it is not, or enjoy the car for what it is; Having 7 C body's. Respect the C Body for what it is. Increase your following distance. Relax and enjoy and become one with the cars design. When I take them out fellow drivers show respect and acknowledge the car. Have fun and be safe. The be safe part comes from the grey matter between the ears.
Looking Forward to a Great 2019,
Paul
This is a lot of trial and error.I have done this as well. Net affect marginal, compared to daily driver. So, do you want to make your car into some thing it is not, or enjoy the car for what it is; Having 7 C body's. Respect the C Body for what it is. Increase your following distance. Relax and enjoy and become one with the cars design. When I take them out fellow drivers show respect and acknowledge the car. Have fun and be safe. The be safe part comes from the grey matter between the ears.
Looking Forward to a Great 2019,
Paul
@a67furyman, how do other drivers react to Cs in NY? In Finland it´s possible to just push in and others give you space.
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