ECI c - body brake kit

Those Chev calipers actually can have more clamping force than stock Mopars because the piston is larger. That is why you can get away with using a drum brake booster.

I think Ralph told me that the kit uses 90's vintage Mustang rotors and if you pony up for the 13" rotor kit, "Vette rotors drilled for both patterns.

Kevin
 
Nothing wrong with sourcing and engineering your own disc. But I must say that dollar for dollar the scarbird kit gets my vote and you don't have to break a ball joint, uses a ford Ltd one piece rotor to keep warpage down, and diameters out to almost 12 in, uses a 90s dodge ram caliper which are plentiful and have the ability to stop those overweight pigs pads from same available everywhere. The Chevy stuff used out there I believe usually comes from more mid sized type cars~1000lbs. Lighter than a c body. I have been looking into grafting Chevy trailblazer alum calipers all 4 and their steel racks onto my Charger. I'm not trying to stop you from looking just offering my 2 cents. Let us know what you find.

Those Chevy calipers have HUGE pistons (2.75" if not mistaking) and the lots of clamping power. The reason I like ECI setup is - I can use stock 14" rims.
 
I was comparing a 99 ram caliper (scarebird kit) with whatever gm caliper they are offering, never mentioned putting Cordoba calipers on a c body. Also remember that gm with the exception of corvettes and trucks notoriously had some of the weakest brakes available.
 
Those Chev calipers actually can have more clamping force than stock Mopars because the piston is larger. That is why you can get away with using a drum brake booster.

I think Ralph told me that the kit uses 90's vintage Mustang rotors and if you pony up for the 13" rotor kit, "Vette rotors drilled for both patterns.

Kevin

Just checked - 95 Mustang rotor is very close. It is a few millimeters thinner/lower (overall height) than Nissan`s rotor, but has proper pilot hole - I will not have to cut the original hubs on the lathe. I have to measure the stud diameter though.

Thanks for the tip Twostik!
 
The calipers are 1981 Corvette.

And 1981 Malibu

Aren't Corvette calipers 4 piston? You must have meant 2.75 sq. Inches total. Carry on.

BTW c body, pu, van brakes 74 and up are 2.75" dia pistons so your on the right track with gm calipers if they are 2.75"dia but the speed of the smaller rotor will knock some braking off the late c bodies had a 12.75" rotor.
 
My bad. It is Camaro caliper. With the piston dia of 2.75 it has 6 sq.in total surface.
 
Update. Worked on the stock hub last night - I had turn the flange and the pilot diameter down on the lathe.
Here`s the pic of the standard unmodified Nissan Maxima rotor installed on the hub.
Next - make the bracket, put everything together and test fit the wheel.
IMG_20150211_234152238.jpgIMG_20150211_234224512.jpgIMG_20150211_234502190.jpg

IMG_20150211_234152238.jpg


IMG_20150211_234224512.jpg


IMG_20150211_234502190.jpg
 
I will have to make the bracket out of 3/8 steel plate. I will either make it on the milling machine or (more than likely) run to the shop and have it laser cut according my blueprint. I will be doing 3D-modeling tonight and will have the blueprint ready shortly.
 
I rememember when you needed a $4000.00 CAD program to do 3D modeling...
And you had to trash your 286 and upgrade to a 386. lol
 
I was working on the bracket blueprint tonight and to me it looks like putting the caliper on the front side of the rotor would be better and easier - I get better clearance between the caliper and spindle and the hose length will be fine (will not have to relocate the brake line). Is there any reason not to put the caliper on the front side? My concern is the strut, but I cannot check it since all front suspension is apart now.
 
Would you have to switch the calipers and put the driver on the passenger side and vice versa to keep the bleeders on top? I am not sure about clearance but here is a old pic of mine, don't know if it will help.
007 (4).jpg

007 (4).jpg
 
Yes, I will switch the calipers left to right.
Thanks for the picture. Looks like there should be enough room.
I will make a temp. bracket out of thinner steel (I just made the blueprints) and mock everything up. Once I confirm that everything fits I will cut the brackets out of 3/8 steel.
 
I was working on the bracket blueprint tonight and to me it looks like putting the caliper on the front side of the rotor would be better and easier - I get better clearance between the caliper and spindle and the hose length will be fine (will not have to relocate the brake line). Is there any reason not to put the caliper on the front side? My concern is the strut, but I cannot check it since all front suspension is apart now.

That was going to be my question, but you beat me to it. Couldn't Saylor just have put the caliper brackets on so that the calipers would be mounted in front of the spindles, and then switched the calipers from one side of the car to the other ?
 
They are supposed to be on the front to allow the hose to cross the pivot axis but if you move the hard line or check everything they can go either.
 
hey dudes :)

the thing said 441 days since I last verified my email addy ,,, really that long? I just logged in a minute ago...

ive been in hiatus.

and my car has sat.

I haven't looked at the brake brackets in a while, but I want to say the caliper holes were to the back. I did relocate my brake lines to the rear side of the arm, with some help from this forum :).

it is chevy stuff, eww, I know, but it fits. and ECI are good people.

its like was said ^^ up there, its 79 - 82 Camaro stuff? rotors too.

- saylor
 
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