EFI and fuel return line

[carrman]

Stan I know it won't be perfect, but if it improves what I have, then that's better for me. I wont make any changes that will forever mar the car.

 

[Deleted member 220]

Bla bla bla my 72 fury has a holley terminator efi love it its over kill for the 360 but who cares yes its expensive dont care yes i bought lots of extras like msd distributor and forget what box lol aluminum radiator dual electric fans yes i had to run a return line to the tank dont care set up was easy the thing that sucked was return line next time ill go a returnless system or buy a gas tank for a roadrunner with all the efi stuff in it with tjat said cant wait to do another efi swap there are easy and fun no more jetting or flooding

 

[commando1]

We do read your comments carefully. That's why we are offering corrections when you once again change the criteria for being right.

I don't know any EFI that claims it will turn an old car into a modern car. They claim to improve drivability, throttle response, cold starts, and reduce or eliminate periodic carb adjustments. You said, "Find me one person who has not said, "Works great except...""

So I did.

Now the standard is a performance benchmark that doesn't exist. In fact, Every review I've read says that EFI won't fix everything.

You don't like retrofit EFI. That's okay. The benefits don't outweigh the costs for you. That's okay. But it's false to say that nobody is satisfied. It's false to say that aftermarket EFI claims to fix everything.

I hear you loud n clear. I'm glad you stood your ground and spoke up again.
I think we're meeting on more common ground now.

 

[Knebel]

Try this with a fitech efi. Its what ill be doing on my next efi swap so i dont have to do a return line

View attachment 192564

Wow. I paid 400 for the old version...

 

[CBODY67]

The factory returnless EFI systems put the pressure regulator on the sending unit in the tank, typically.

Aftermarket returnless EFI systems run the pump "as needed", possibly at varying output levels.

Main thing the aftermarket retro-fit EFI kits replace is a carb that's worn, needs some attention, OR a carb that's been jacked with and/or modified by somebody who thought they knew what they were doing. That includes "jetting", too!

For the return line, there's a company that sells EFI retro-fits that use OEM components and a GM computer (circa 1985 or so) to run it. A generic (instruction) chip might be installed and a customized chip can be done for your specific application. With that kit, you go to the auto supply and get a reman TBI unit (usually 2bbl), do the electronics, put the fuel return line bung in the filler neck of the existing tank, hook it all up, and see how it does. A friend did one of these on his '52 Buick straight 8 and it works pretty well. Everything works better, plus more mpg on trips. Not as fancy as the FiTechs and such, but it worked for him. YOUR results might vary.

I had the EFI "bug" a year of so ago, when the self-learning systems appeared. Seems that many of the initial write-ups were for vehicles with mis-matched engine components (cams and rear axle ratios, for example), so their results weren't that impressive. Other than cold starts and improved throttle response. THEN I thought how long it'd take to re-coup the $2000.00+labor+ignition system pricing with fuel savings . . . and I ordered a Street Demon 650 instead. Then an AVS2, later. Just had to have that TQuad-look Street Demon! Always liked AVSs, too. The new items on the AVS2 made the case to me. Carbs . . . something I understand.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[carrman]

Those of you who ran the Sniper, where did you screw in your water temp sensor? I have both an aftermarket gauge and the idiot lights hooked up. Will I have to lose one of those for the EFI coolant temp sensor?

 

[jct]

most likely you would have to lose the idiot light sensor

 

[carrman]

Maybe use a 3/8" street tee and screw both sensors into it, or put it in the heater hose outlet, plumb the hose in one leg, the sensor in the other?

 

[jct]

or you can go this route for it into the upper radiator hose

 

[Jimmyse23]

You really want the sensor before the t stat. That way it doesn’t take as long to get to the learning temp. Here how I did it.

 

[carrman]

How hard was that to drill?

 

[Jimmyse23]

How hard was that to drill?

Well it wasn’t easy. There was hole there anyway that was plugged. I just took my time and then tapped it by hand. Originally I had two adapters that took the place of the OE temp switch. But I wanted my idiot light.

If you go with a sniper, ditch the CTS that comes with it and purchase one from AC Delco. Much more accurate.

 

[carrman]

I have no pre-existing hole to tap.

 

[Jimmyse23]

Well you could get another pump housing. But unless you’re wanting to keep your idiot light I’d just get the adapters and put it there.

 

[carrman]

Well it wasn’t easy. There was hole there anyway that was plugged. I just took my time and then tapped it by hand. Originally I had two adapters that took the place of the OE temp switch. But I wanted my idiot light.

If you go with a sniper, ditch the CTS that comes with it and purchase one from AC Delco. Much more accurate.

Got a part number?

 

[Jimmyse23]

Let me check and see if I can see it. This will be crazy, but if you check the FI section of the chevelle.com forum there is a ton of info for fitech and sniper.