Engine Stall on Tip-in

The_Eagles’_Nest

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So I got my 73 Fury running after the carburetor pooped the bed and guzzled fuel so bad the car would barely stay running. I rebuilt the carburetor and it had no effect on this condition, so I ordered a rebuilt carburetor from Autoline and it came and after some tuning I got it to run great! I ended up swapping the power valve, jets, external linkage rods, idle mixture screws and idle speed screws and setting everything up like the old carburetor and it ran perfectly for two days. Now it will run rough at idle warm or cold and it will stall with a typical push of the accelerator and it will bog down when feathered.

The carb is a Holley 2210 on a stock 360 with 60,000 miles.
 
So I got my 73 Fury running after the carburetor pooped the bed and guzzled fuel so bad the car would barely stay running. I rebuilt the carburetor and it had no effect on this condition, so I ordered a rebuilt carburetor from Autoline and it came and after some tuning I got it to run great! I ended up swapping the power valve, jets, external linkage rods, idle mixture screws and idle speed screws and setting everything up like the old carburetor and it ran perfectly for two days. Now it will run rough at idle warm or cold and it will stall with a typical push of the accelerator and it will bog down when feathered.

The carb is a Holley 2210 on a stock 360 with 60,000 miles.

I must not be understanding - the carb came back and didn't run well so you swapped a bunch of parts to make it run perfect for two days and now it runs badly again??? That really does not make sense to me at least...........

The Holley 2210 has been discussed ad-nauseum on this site for the fact that if you overtighten the air cleaner wing nut holding the air cleaner in place, you will easily cause the air horn to warp and then the carb will run badly as you describe.

Usually Autoline is pretty good about making sure the air horn warpage is fixed when they rebuild these carburetors but they also have a large turnover of employees and some of the newer ones may not make sure the airhorn warpage is fixed properly before returning them to you - I would check with their technical support person and let him know that the carb is running badly after returning the carburetor and ask them to check/fix the warpage as needed before returning it back to you. On your end you must make sure that you DO NOT overtighten that wing nut any more that to just keep the air cleaner in place. Chrysler offered a "bridge kit" to fix this problem well after start of production so very few carbuuretors have that fix. When these Holley's were new, they ran well but it didn't last long because the air cleaner tie down rod is attached to the air horn rather than the carburetor base wherein the latter approach prevents such warpage since the base is much thicker and resistant to warpage.

If you want more information on this topic, use this site's "search" function and type in "Holley 2210 carburetor warpage" and use my site name or others to complete the search and you will see more information on this issue.
 
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Sounds like the carb is picking up dirt in the fuel system.
Has the csr sat before your ownership? Could be crud in the tank.
Process of elimination ....
 
The original carb was running perfectly and it ended up flooding out. Rebuilding it did no good.

The new carb ran much better but, when blipped it would pop through the air horn and cut out. The only way to drive the car was to ease in to the throttle.

I swapped parts from the old carburetor and it worked much better. Two days of running perfectly and now it will cut out only under load. The warmer the engine is, the better it runs.
 
Sounds like the carb is picking up dirt in the fuel system.
Has the csr sat before your ownership? Could be crud in the tank.
Process of elimination ....
I will have to see if there is anything in the fuel filter. I want to put a new fuel pump and tank in it eventually.
 
I have verified my engine settings and they are not where I left them, and they cannot be adjusted. The carburetor is at fault. The curb idle cannot be lowered past 1050-1070. I had it set to 750. Always in N with the high beams and blower motor going.
 
What is your initial timing set at?
Ignore the " factory" setting since today's gas is full of corn juice.
try setting the timing at 10 degrees and try accekrratibg again. Bump up the timing if needed.

Use a vacuum gauge to set the carb and timing.
How much vacuum you have as of now at idle?
In a perfect world in a stock engine should have 18 20 inches of vacuum.


If it wont idle, the idle circuit it plugged. At 1000 rpm you are not running on the idle circuit of the carb.
Hope this helps.
 
This is my carb after I dropped the tank and had it professionally cleaned and new fuel filter installed after blowing out the lines.
Still collected garbage from the fuel system.
Car sat for 6 years.

20200620_124443.jpg
 
What is your initial timing set at?
Ignore the " factory" setting since today's gas is full of corn juice.
try setting the timing at 10 degrees and try accekrratibg again. Bump up the timing if needed.

Use a vacuum gauge to set the carb and timing.
How much vacuum you have as of now at idle?
In a perfect world in a stock engine should have 18 20 inches of vacuum.


If it wont idle, the idle circuit it plugged. At 1000 rpm you are not running on the idle circuit of the carb.
Hope this helps.
Initial timing is 5°BTC any more timing and it shoots fire out of the carburetor.

I will be pulling the carb off tonight to investigate again and Frankenstein it with the other carburetor.
 
Those new performance complaints sound "non-carb" a bit, to me. If the timing changed without the distributor physically moving, that might point to an ignition electronics issue? Whereas the tip-in issues could be a combination of throttle plates being open too far at idle and accel pump being weak. For some reason, 750rpm hot base idle sounds about 50-100rpm too high to me for back then.

Personally, I like to use dwell tachs to make sure where I'm with carburetor things and such. I could never see that much difference when we started to get the first RFG and then E10, other than a 3% loss in gas mileage. My adjustments didn't change that much, if any. I gave up on vac gauges for adjustments in about 1969, when I got my first dwell tach, fwiw. NOT that a vac gauge can't be used, just that I liked the higher precision of the dwell tach for what I wanted to do. Just my experiences. Obviously others' experience with E10 has been different than mine. BTAIM Whatever works . . .

The sudden flooding issue is interesting. Normally, flaky needle and seats or fluid-filled floats are culprits. Another possibility is that the idle air bleeds for the idle system or main system suddenly became much smaller in diameter, which would send those circuits toward "full rich" just with that change. Those air bleeds are exposed to incoming air specifically, inside the throttle bore near the air cleaner base.

Check for an ignition issue, which might also lead to a timing chain issue (due to age). Please advise.

I'm now curious as to what it would take to recalibrate a Rochester 2bbl to replace the Holley 2210-family carburetors? As much as I like the Holley 2210s, though.

CBODY67
 
Put up a video of what it is doing.
Initial timing is 5°BTC any more timing and it shoots fire out of the carburetor.

I will be pulling the carb off tonight to investigate again and Frankenstein it with the other carburetor.
Sound more like an ignition problem.
Simple thing first and as mentioned, swap out the ECU box.
How many miles on the engine?
Pull the distributor cap, rotate the crankvo #1 TDC.
Then check for slop or how slack the timing chain is by rotating the crank oposite direction.
Obsrve how long it takes for the rotor to turn.
It may be posdible she jumped a tooth if the timing chain is wotn or misdibg sny nylon teeth.
 
The flooding issue came out of nowhere. The car was running perfect and then I shut it off at the gas station and filled up. When I went to restart the engine it would only run with my foot on the accelerator. I limped it home. The thing I noted was a puddle of gas on the intake.

The ignition uses NOS N13Y spark plugs, new Mopar performance orange wires, NOS Mopar cap and rotor. The ECU is a new Mancini Racing unit and the alternator and voltage regulator are new.
 
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