For Sale Factory 65-68 C-body Factory BUDD Disc Brake Set Up

Status
Not open for further replies.
Might this be a good idea for potential disc conversion for my '67 New Yorker? I'd still have to find 15" wheels, but at least there's this part.

I don't have plans to imminently, but maybe for future use, or to include in case I need to sell it?

I got a set of 15 x 7 wheels from Murray Park. He delivered them to me at Carlisle last year along with a set of those wheel covers too.
 
Might this be a good idea for potential disc conversion for my '67 New Yorker? I'd still have to find 15" wheels, but at least there's this part.

I don't have plans to imminently, but maybe for future use, or to include in case I need to sell it?

Under no circumstances do you want this setup for anything other than a concours restoration. You can buy a running driving Cbody project for the cost of rebuilding Budd brakes.

69-73 single piston is the setup you need.

Kevin
 
Very rare, but discs were offered on Cs in 65. Very rare. Marketed to police and trailer tow/fleet use at first IIRC.
I remember we discussed this before, probably on the Dry Dock. At that time I found some info in a 1965 parts book that specifically listed the disc brake setup under special police equipment.

EDIT: I found it. Here is what I wrote. References are to the 1965 Factory Parts Book. I also remember that the 15" wheel covers depicted were not the ones for 66-67 disc-equipped cars which @Ripinator posted pics of in this thread.

Section 2 does not list the special lower balljoints for disc brake cars.

Section 5 shows exploded diagrams of the disc brake system for C-body Plymouth, Dodge and Chryslers. However, the part of section 5 listing part numbers is missing, so we can't see if the disc specific parts are called out here.

Section 22 lists hub and brake related parts for discs, specifies they are for Polara and Fury and specifically for police vehicles. It also shows only one style of 15" wheel cover, and specifies that it is for police and taxi use.

Looking in the Police and Taxi section, there are disc brake related part numbers shown for Dodge Polara and Plymouth Fury under the police car section, but not under the taxi section.
 
Last edited:
Under no circumstances do you want this setup for anything other than a concours restoration. You can buy a running driving Cbody project for the cost of rebuilding Budd brakes.

69-73 single piston is the setup you need.

Kevin
This is false news at best.:BangHead:
 
This is false news at best.:BangHead:

Agreed - Perhaps up to about 10 years ago the system was a bad choice to do an upgrade... but now with stainless steel sleeving the calipers don't seize up - and arguably the Budd's performance is better than the later 69-73 system.

What about the lower ball joint availability? Are the rebuilts any better than they used to be?
 
This is false news at best.:BangHead:

I realize technically the lower ball joints aren't part of a brake rebuild but if you are converting from drums you need them and you aren't doing that conversion for less than $2500 with new rotors, sleeved calipers etc. The last time I looked up the price of a Budd lower ball joint they were north of $600 each and that was a few years ago.

Kevin
 
Agreed - Perhaps up to about 10 years ago the system was a bad choice to do an upgrade... but now with stainless steel sleeving the calipers don't seize up - and arguably the Budd's performance is better than the later 69-73 system.

What about the lower ball joint availability? Are the rebuilts any better than they used to be?

From just a resistance to fade standpoint, I don't see how a .875 thick rotor can outperform a 1.250 thick rotor. As I recall the Budd rotors were prone to warping for this reason. A thicker rotor will be able to handle more heat than a thin one.

As far as the 4 piston caliper goes, is it capable of more clamping force than the single piston? That can be calculated but I suspect they are probably similar. I'll grant the 4 piston likely has better/more even pad wear than a single.

Kevin
 
From just a resistance to fade standpoint, I don't see how a .875 thick rotor can outperform a 1.250 thick rotor. As I recall the Budd rotors were prone to warping for this reason. A thicker rotor will be able to handle more heat than a thin one.

As far as the 4 piston caliper goes, is it capable of more clamping force than the single piston? That can be calculated but I suspect they are probably similar. I'll grant the 4 piston likely has better/more even pad wear than a single.

Kevin

True - and I don't have any first-hand experience to back up my claims... I'm just parroting what I've heard. :D:rolleyes:
 
Well of course you’re not going to convert a drum car to disc with the Budds but you don’t need to convert your existing BUDD equipped car to another style because of cost or performance. I do wish the rotors were thicker but the new ones are an inch thick and are $400 for the pair, you can either get sleeved calipers done for about $550 or opt for standard rebuilds for $100 each, pads are increasingly hard to come by but they’re out there and are a hundred bucks a set. Oh and front hoses are from a Ford Bronco.
 
Well of course you’re not going to convert a drum car to disc with the Budds but you don’t need to convert your existing BUDD equipped car to another style because of cost or performance. I do wish the rotors were thicker but the new ones are an inch thick and are $400 for the pair, you can either get sleeved calipers done for about $550 or opt for standard rebuilds for $100 each, pads are increasingly hard to come by but they’re out there and are a hundred bucks a set. Oh and front hoses are from a Ford Bronco.

Agreed, but the guy I was replying to was planning a disc upgrade on his 67 New Yorker.

Kevin
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top