Finally a 70’ Fury Owner

Various questions. Are these seats from a ‘70 Fury III? I don’t see them referenced in the sale brochure. They look similar to a ‘69s Sport Fury Bucket seat.

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Also - I’ve replaced all exterior lights but this drivers park light. I’m getting voltage to the connector and I get about 10.5 volts to the park light connector. That should at least make it light dimly. I suspect a bad ground but all my headlight harness grounds are replaced and clean. Are the park lights grounded through the wiring harness ground cable? Or are they grounded through the housing itself?

I say that the seats are correct despite that odd-looking upholstery on them. 71s have seat back latches operated via push buttons and 70 to somewhere pre-Fusie time
the latches had a release mechanism with that vertically moving lever. Also the head restraints look good, because they where ``skinnier`` on Slabbie seats, and only 69-70 had that adjustable type on the buckets. Divided bench seats are another thing like my 73 Imp shows. Will the wheel covers from a Chrysler stay on?

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Thanks for keeping us posted on your restoration! I took the liberty a few weeks ago to link to the fender tag of your car (which is a cousin to my red 318 '70 Polara), in the thread about the last C-body convertibles. @Yeahrightgreer's car is among the last Fury 'verts of which I know:

P: Plymouth Fury
M: Medium
27: Convertible

G: 318 230HP 1-2BBL 8 CYL
0: 1970
D: Belvidere, IL, USA

271331: Sequence number

E44: 318 cid 2 barrel V8 230hp
D31: A904 3-Speed Auto Trans.
ER6: Red Exterior Color
M6XA: Trim - Opt. Decor Group, Vinyl Bucket Seats, Charcoal/Black
TX9: Black Int. Door Frames
526: Build Date: May 26
182329: Order number

V3X: Black Convertible Top
C21: Center Front Seat Cushion
C55: Bucket Seats
M31: Belt Moldings
R11: Radio Solid State AM (2 Watts)
V01: Mono Tone Paint Treatment

V5X: Body Side Stripes, Black
Y05: Build to USA Specs
Y14: Sold Car
END: End of Sales Codes
 
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Finally got around to dropping the trans pan. Pretty happy with what I saw. No sludge or discoloration of the fluid. It looked pretty new and still had a pungent smell. Replacing the filter there were very small flakes of metal - and some at the bottom of the pan but there was none circulating through the fluid. Doesn’t look like it was enough to warrant immediate action and the transmission still shifts strong with all gears working. It always surprises me how something so little as changing old fluid can “wake up” a car in its throttle response. It does seem like the Pan has a tiny leak at one of the front bolts. Not excited about dropping it again to fix it but we will see.
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Drained all the oil out of the block and popped the valve covers. Nothing alarming and no gump or metal flakes but the oil was pretty discolored so I’m sure it was passed due on it oil change. Don’t know what was run before so just changed to Rotella 15W-40 non-synthetic. There was a leak coming from the oil filter before so we will see if this one holds up. Replacing the valve covers with a nice rubber set from Edelbrock. The first set valve covers cracked and leaked like hell so I’m on my second set.
I’ll take my time on this set as I’ve been taught there’s only 2 ways of doing something. The right way. Or again
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The carb runs like garbage while cold - sputtering and coughing, shaking until it reaches a good temp. Amp gauge fluctuates and doesn’t regulate until the engine warms up. Will go and try and adjust the choke and settings a bit but I believe it’s the original carb and who knows the last it’s has a rebuild. At least a 1bbl should be relatively simple. It’ll be a learning experience.


However. It is a great night cruiser. I’ve been training her up as I would like this to eventually be her car. Still getting use to the touchy brakes and overly assisted power steering.
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You gonna keep that one barrel or upgrade to something bigger? I had all the same issues with mine. I messed with it for a while but it was essentially an on off switch. Best thing I ever did for my 69’s 318 was that Holley 600. That little motor loves that thing and I think it helped mileage vs the tiny sewer hole it replaced. Just wondering. Nice going on your fury man. It’s a beautiful thing whenever so far so good happens!!!
 
Will the wheel covers from a Chrysler stay on?

It look like the PO probably lost the Plymouth covers and put the similar style Chrysler covers. To an onlooker they might not notice but it drives me crazy. They stay on fine. While I’m in the search of a set of road wheels I picked up a set of covers from a ‘69 SF and am using those for now.

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You gonna keep that one barrel or upgrade to something bigger? I had all the same issues with mine. I messed with it for a while but it was essentially an on off switch.

I’ve thought about switching out to something - but haven’t done any research into what would be a good replacement. Something easy to rebuild and with a nice automatic choke. Not too keen on electric. Might have to look into that Holley!
 
I’ve thought about switching out to something - but haven’t done any research into what would be a good replacement. Something easy to rebuild and with a nice automatic choke. Not too keen on electric. Might have to look into that Holley!

My vote goes for a 4bbl on the +500 CFM range. It could be on the 600-650 range, if you decided to hop up the engine (heads, cam etc).
 
I’ve thought about switching out to something - but haven’t done any research into what would be a good replacement. Something easy to rebuild and with a nice automatic choke. Not too keen on electric. Might have to look into that Holley!
If you want some pics let me know. I did a Holley 600 square bore with a two to four adapter plate I’ve had lying around for years and years. I know they’re for testing mostly and I did buy a stock iron 340 intake for $25 but it runs so well with the 2 to 4 plate I’m not messing with it. I also run with the choke bailing wired dead. Don’t need it out here where it’s warm all the time. If it’s ever a bit cold an extra pump does the trick. Everything works and fits like stock. The kick down, throttle cable, etc , everything swapped over fine. That’s only if you buy the Holley mopar adapter arm when you purchase the carb. Without that arm it’s an unworkable mess. Keep up the good work. Great car & great story!!!
 
Way late to this thread so first off congrats on your acquisition and it sounds like you dodged a bullet wrt the fire. Having a 318 70 Polara convertible myself I have a soft spot for your car. Glad to hear you are keeping the 318. I put a kit in the original Carter 2l and never looked back. Have never felt the need to reinvent the wheel with a 4 bbl. Your car is a beauty :thumbsup:.
 
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Rebuilt the carb this weekend. Reattached all the linkage and cleaned up the intake a bit. The car idles in P, N, great. Fast idles fine and kicks down to normal idle smoothly. Engine RPM smoothly increases and throttle opens wide open when gas depressed.

As soon as car is shifted into R,D or 1,2 it quickly bogs down and starts to stall out.m while not moving. Pressing on the gas feels as if it’s out of breathe and severely lean. Gonna try and plug all the vacuum ports. And detect any vacuum leaks. Will report back.

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Found and plugged at least 2 vacuum leaks. Tightened loose carb base bolts and used a thick flange.
Will check and tighten down on intake bolts to see if any have worked their way loose.

Although it is noticeably better i.e. not stalling out when just sitting in drive, it still is overly lean. Acceleration while in gear causes backfiring (through carb) sputtering, little to no throttle response (WOT causes nothing) etc.
Adjusting mixture screws richer seem to make the engine unstable.
Might check my float adjustments again but they should be good.

Fuel filter has been replaced and might go ahead and do fuel pump as well. Will also be sure to check timing and change out plugs that are probably old.

After taking the car for a test drive tonight, combining accessories features like lights, wipers, brake lights and turn signals cause the engine to stall out. At fast idle acceleration voltage is fine but under normal conditions, voltage does not regulate.
I’ve chalked it up to low or fluctuating RPM causing the regulator and alternator the fail in tow.
 
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When you rebuilt the carb did you set all the measurements and setting correctly, usually the rebuild kit has all the proper specs listed. But it sounds like an accelerator pump issue or a vacuum leak....but leaning towards a bad PCV valve or other vacuum leak. Another thought Is the choke flap staying pinned open once warmed up, I've had bad linkage/choke mechanism and the flap swinging closed during low RPM operation, but worked fine at high RPM since it was pulling lots of air and keeping the choke flap open.
 
Weather has been freezing. And with no garage the car has just been sitting there looking sad. Took a look at the intake and there are visible vacuum leaks from a poor installation, missing bolts and failed gaskets
 
Acceleration while in gear causes backfiring (through carb) sputtering, little to no throttle response (WOT causes nothing) etc.

Could you have a timing problem? Maybe look at the distributor, gap, dwell and vac advance. At some point maybe do a compression check, you might have a funny intake valve.

Good looking car, like the color too!!
:canada::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Much neglect for this thing has been going around. And since I need to put away the Chrysler for a while, it’s time to get this ball rolling and actually make this thing a driver.
Gary was able to help me out and let me get a 4bbl manifold. Need to clean up the surfaces a bit but its a clean piece and should bolt in easily.

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For fuel delivery - switching things up. On the Carter the fuel line and seat were almost fused to the body, the lines got kinked/bent and there was damage to the carb body. So. Decided to ditch the Carter for now.
To sit on top the new manifold, Picked a Holley 4160 4bbl 600CFM. Ill have to use the Mopar Adapter Arm PN: 20-7 but other than that, all the linkage looks like it should switch over easily. Hopefully the kick down linkage isn’t too short now. New Carter fuel pump. New filter and lines from pump up.
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Replaced the old wires with a set from Taylor. Old plugs were corroded and abraded. Changed out plugs with NGK 3459. Out come the old.
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For ignition

Since I got the car I’ve wanted to get rid of this spaghetti wire mess that is an MSD-5 setup. I’m sure its been in there since the late 80s. Lots of electrical gremlins and haphazard wires that I’ll need to fix. Day by day.

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Out comes the old distributor. Rotor looks to have some damage and internals are all but corroded.
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Replacing is a nice points dizzy from @Rehrenberg on eBay. Very nice POC and great shipping time. In goes a new coil. Resistors. Lots of new wires I’ll have to splice in or create.
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For the kicker. The timing cover has a major crack in it. So it’ll all be coming out. Taking this opportunity to do the water pump, reservice balancer, belts, alternator, and cooling system. Took a peak inside and it already has a double roller in it that looks tight. So hopefully dont need to replace it. Will have to check the slack and teeth. While the front end is tore down - what else should i check?
 
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Could you have a timing problem? Maybe look at the distributor, gap, dwell and vac advance. At some point maybe do a compression check, you might have a funny intake valve.

Good looking car, like the color too!!
:canada::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Whole ignition system looks a mess. Gonna retime the system. Definitely trial by fire for me here. And thanks. Too bad mine isnt a 440 like yours :rolleyes:

Something sure is happening, it doesn't look like a good thing though. I am guessing it wouldn't start?

A suddenly got new orders to a different base - I didn't
have any of the linkage or carb set up so i had it towed to my new base. Thankfully Hagerty covered most of the mileage.

That dudes almost bigger than the flatbed !!!
You ever get that carb - stumble - stall figured out ? I know it’s hard to do when it’s cold.
Nowhere as cold as back up north - but it gets to about freezing + wind chill so i lose all motivation to go outside and crack open the hood

I really hope that you picked up a carb with an electric choke.
Done senior - just have to find a good place to run a wire. Didnt want to mess with any of the manual linkage
 
Drained the block of coolant today. Every passageway was caked to the point of needing to cut rubber. Will try flushing out the system and cleaning the waterways once its warmer out.

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Took off all the attachments and bolts from the intake. (Not pictured) Doesn't seem to budge from either end with a pry bar. Have hit it a bit with a rubber mallet to loosen it. Any suggestions?

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The car has a 28" radiator and shroud which from PN's shows its from a 74-75 Chrysler w/ 400 or 440. Seems alittle overkill compared to the factory 19" it would of came with. It takes up an absurd amount of room in the bay and has lots of modifications & cuts in order to fit around the car. Doesn't do too well at keeping it cool but at least it doesn't leak - yet.
 
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