Fitment & performance Trial on MOP753A Radiator on 1966 Chrysler Newport

65Polara

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I am just joining this thread, and am wondering if I could help out the vendor. I see you are located in Hatfield, PA. I happen to be about 45 minutes from there, and am looking for a cooling solution for my built motor that I anticipate achieving ~500 hp. I have a 1965 Polara with the 22'' radiator. Maybe we can work something out for you to use it for fitment etc.

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Ccas

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I believe we already have a solution for that radiator if you are going to run a full kit. What we had hoped to do is make a correct one that you could run the OEM fan shroud with. At 500hp, you start to get to a point where the electric fan kit can do a better job than the mechanical fan. So in your case, we can probably get you set up. I'd just need to borrow that radiator for a day or two to confirm. Shoot me a PM if that's a possibility.
 

mathiew

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does a MOP753A will fit in my 1965 300 838 2 barrels? I have no problem to cut/fit from my 22'' to 26'' just want to know if it will be hard to fit trans line?
 

Ccas

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does a MOP753A will fit in my 1965 300 838 2 barrels? I have no problem to cut/fit from my 22'' to 26'' just want to know if it will be hard to fit trans line?
As far as fitting the 22" unit in your car, that's not an issue and the trans lines should match up pretty close. Our radiator is deeper than yours so the trans lines have to get pushed back a bit. That might require putting an extra 's' bend to create some space.
Going to a 26" radiator on a car that never had one, could be done an unlimited amount of ways. Each one would change the position of the trans line inlet. So I couldn't guarantee your trans lines will match up. Personally, if you went the 26" route, I'd run a separate trans cooler and then you won't have to worry about the trans lines placement.
 

Ccas

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Hey @Ccas
Did you ever get the taller cores put together for the 22" radiator?
Ready to buy a kit.
This topic is pretty old. In re-reading, I don't see anything mentioned about a taller core. I'm also not sure 65polara ever supplied us with that sample. Members have been using both our 22" and 26" rads for the C-body. We just haven't figured out the 22" oem shroud fitment yet.
 

65Fury440

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Good show then! Yes, DO combine the 18 inch core of the MOP751A with the tanks of the MOP753A and you WILL have a REAL WINNER for mid-60s C-body MoPars! I chose the 753A because it was the CLOSEST of your product line to my needs, but I expect a bit of added volume and surface area will only IMPROVE performance!

I can measure my old fan shroud brackets for you if it will help you design new methods for attaching the original shrouds to your radiators. I KNOW some of the other conservative hold-outs on this forum would LOVE to see somebody in modern industry tackle this exact problem. I can also measure how the nuts were placed on my 2524984 radiator. Mind you, THOSE DON'T fit the shroud brackets I obtained, but it still would be useful data I think.

About half way through post #1 Gerald mentions the core is about 2 1/2 " shorter than original, and on post #3 makes a suggestion that sounds pretty easy to incorporate. My 65 big block car came from the factory with a 22" radiator, and now has a warmed over engine. The extra capacity sure wouldn't hurt in the Florida heat.
My radiator now is from another company and has 2- 1" rows. The temps creep up when it is hot out.
 

Gerald Morris

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About half way through post #1 Gerald mentions the core is about 2 1/2 " shorter than original, and on post #3 makes a suggestion that sounds pretty easy to incorporate. My 65 big block car came from the factory with a 22" radiator, and now has a warmed over engine. The extra capacity sure wouldn't hurt in the Florida heat.
My radiator now is from another company and has 2- 1" rows. The temps creep up when it is hot out.

You might try their MOP751A for a full 18" height. That should bolt up on a 65 C body which came w a 22" radiator to start with. The only difference between that one and what I had in mine is where the upper hose is situated. On my old one, its all thge way over to the right, while on the 751A, like MANY old Mopar radiators ofd the mid 60s, its about in the middle. I COULD run that with little trouble, and might try it if I have money to throw around again.

Cold Case did me a pretty good deal for my being a tester. I'd HAPPILY test the 751A for them, and compare notes. The 753A has been a true boon in this evil Arizona heat these past 2 summers. Those 1.25" tubes shed a great deal of engine heat. I can feel it when I kick on my pusher fan occasionally, during more torrid conditions. That pusher proved cheaper and less time/labor consuming that devising a shroud for the 18" 6 blade Derale clutch fan I bought to go w the radiator. You may emulate my example and be out no more than $40 on the pusher.

In time, I would like to try a more completely electric cooling fan setup, w shroud for such, and drop the engine fan altogether. BUT, I need a larger alternator than the 60A one I currently run to do so. Similarly, an electric water pump suggests further engine power gained in one place, but again, only by increased ampacity of the alternator and the steady load on it. Since greater torque must be applied for greater current demand, the efficiency of a high current alternator becomes the dominant constraint in such a cooling system modernization. It MAY prove feasible though, if you have the $$$ to experiment with.
 

65Fury440

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Thanks Gerald for the explanation, the MOP751K (without trans cooler) sounds like it will be what I'm going to pursue.
My car has an 8 blade clutch fan and shroud with the Hayden 2797 I swap on and off for and an electric 16" Spal puller fan. Surprisingly, there is no difference I can see in idle cooling airflow. The issue my car has is coming from a fast cruise to a stoplight. It will be at 180 right on the stat until the point it has to stop and idle. Then the temp creeps up to 190 or so. Then you hit another stop light, now its up to 200 or over. Then on a steady light throttle run of say about 4-5 miles, the temp comes down to 190.
Hopefully the extra 25% capacity of the MOP751K will do the trick.
@Ccas Do you have any suggestions before I order? I can call your guys, just like to keep the board informed.

Thanks again Gerald for such an in-depth review.
 

Ccas

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Thanks Gerald for the explanation, the MOP751K (without trans cooler) sounds like it will be what I'm going to pursue.
My car has an 8 blade clutch fan and shroud with the Hayden 2797 I swap on and off for and an electric 16" Spal puller fan. Surprisingly, there is no difference I can see in idle cooling airflow. The issue my car has is coming from a fast cruise to a stoplight. It will be at 180 right on the stat until the point it has to stop and idle. Then the temp creeps up to 190 or so. Then you hit another stop light, now its up to 200 or over. Then on a steady light throttle run of say about 4-5 miles, the temp comes down to 190.
Hopefully the extra 25% capacity of the MOP751K will do the trick.
@Ccas Do you have any suggestions before I order? I can call your guys, just like to keep the board informed.

Thanks again Gerald for such an in-depth review.
If you are ok with the inlet being in a different position, I think that's the way to go. I really think all you need is that extra volume. We'll all be anxious to hear the results.

I'm sending you a quick PM with ordering details.
 
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