Front Steering/Suspension Work

[jstaples2]

Hi all -
I'm moving on to the front suspension on my 68 Fury. I'm trying to get the tie rod assembly out right now and am stuck.

I've removed the cotter-pin and castle nut, but I can't seem to get the assembly to drop out of the center link and knuckle arm. Do I need a pickle fork or something? I thought that was only for separating the ball joints?

Any tips before I start wailing on it with a hammer?

 

[1978 NYB]

There is a smaller pickle fork designed for tie rods. Sometimes they come apart with one smack of the hammer and sometimes you need to use the fork to separate them. I would put the nut back on about half way and try giving it a couple of whacks with a hammer before using the fork.

 

[SF-66TC]

Hi all -
I'm moving on to the front suspension on my 68 Fury. I'm trying to get the tie rod assembly out right now and am stuck.

I've removed the cotter-pin and castle nut, but I can't seem to get the assembly to drop out of the center link and knuckle arm. Do I need a pickle fork or something? I thought that was only for separating the ball joints?

Any tips before I start wailing on it with a hammer?

View attachment 74392

If you use a pickle fork you often run the risk of ruining the rubber seal, but if you're replacing it then it doesn't matter. I got a tool similar to this, but a different mfg -

Amazon product ASIN B002NE0UPQ
You can also RENT a tie-rod removal tool from your local auto parts store like AutoZone. They also have a kit consisting of a tie-rod, ball joint and pitman arm pullers. At Autozone how their rental program works (if available) is you pay for the cost of the tool and when you return it they refund 100% of your money. Essentially the rental is FREE and I believe they give you an unlimited amount of time before returning it. If you don't have an AutoZone in your area check with you local parts store to see if they have a tool rental program.

 

[Big_John]

The old school method where you don't have a pickle fork is to put the nut back on just enough to keep it from flying off. Wedge a pry bar in there so it's putting some down force on the tie rod... Then smack the SIDE of the arm with a good size hammer. Hit it sharply.... The tie rod usually falls out by the third try.

You can use an air chisel with a pickle fork attachment. Air chisels are pretty simple tools, so a cheap one (Harbor Fright) will do the job wihout breaking the bank.

 

[saylor]

pickle fork FTW

 

[jstaples2]

Thanks everyone. I tried putting the castle nut back on about 1/2 way down and rapped it with the hammer a few times - no luck. I went to Autozone and picked up a pickle fork ($12) and that did the trick. I had to beat the hell out of it, but was able to disconnect the tie rod assembly, idler arm, center link. Now on to the driver side tie rod ends and pitman arm.

On a side note, I picked up a 2/9/64 - Inch Ball Joint Socket from Amazon (link). I saw this socket size used on another thread, but it's too big for the ball joint on my Fury. Anyone know what the correct socket size is for the Upper/Lower ball joint?

 

[live4theking]

I'm for the screw the nut back on (upside down) and whack it with a hammer a couple of times. I've never had to use a pickle fork.

 

[live4theking]

I know that there are two different sizes. The other size I believe is 1-15/16".

 

[saylor]

i put a chain around the arm to hold it to break that one loose. otherwise it just flops around with all the rest of everything unhooked.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[jstaples2]

i put a chain around the arm to hold it to break that one loose. otherwise it just flops around with all the rest of everything unhooked.

try not to die -

- saylor

Lol - Wish I knew that like 2 hours ago! I had that exact issue with the centerlink, idler arm all dangling around with the pitman being the last link.

 

[jstaples2]

Ok, I finally was able to get all the steering components unhooked and pulled out of the car. What a messy job. There was road dirt, grime and grease on everything under there.

I was able to use the pickle fork to get the tie rod ends off (inner and outer) but I had to go back to Autozone for a pitman arm puller. I also didn't have a wrench or socket big enough to release the nut on the pitman arm. It's like a 1 5/16 fitting or something. I ended up using a monkey wrench and getting it off.

Rock Auto didn't have any new center links listed and I don't recall the other folks in this forum replacing those so I am going to re-use what I have. I scrubbed/cleaned/painted it and it's now drying.

Hope re-assembly goes a bit faster.

 

[SF-66TC]

Ok, I finally was able to get all the steering components unhooked and pulled out of the car. What a messy job. There was road dirt, grime and grease on everything under there.

I was able to use the pickle fork to get the tie rod ends off (inner and outer) but I had to go back to Autozone for a pitman arm puller. I also didn't have a wrench or socket big enough to release the nut on the pitman arm. It's like a 1 5/16 fitting or something. I ended up using a monkey wrench and getting it off.

Rock Auto didn't have any new center links listed and I don't recall the other folks in this forum replacing those so I am going to re-use what I have. I scrubbed/cleaned/painted it and it's now drying.

Hope re-assembly goes a bit faster.

The Pitman Arm Spline Nut is 1-15/16" and torqued to 120 ft/lbs. I doubt you'll be able to use a monkey wrench to torque that nut so it's best to get yourself a socket. Since it's a steering component, don't skip getting a socket to torque the nut for safety reasons. The last thing you need is for the pitman arm to dislocate and lose your steering!

The other arm that connects to the passenger side of the center link is the "Idler Arm" Moog 7014 - Rock Auto has it for $34.99
More Information for MOOG K7014
1968 PLYMOUTH FURY 6.3L 383cid V8 Idler Arm | RockAuto

 

[jstaples2]

On (hopefully) final update -
Parts dried overnight and I was able to get things hooked up under the car. Assembly was a LOT easier than disassembly. I took it for a test drive and I am impressed. There's no more 'float' in the steering. Also, the car lost most of its' creak/groan when turning corners. I'll need to go get the car aligned next.

Next project is the ball joints and I'm guessing I probably ought to do the control arm bushings at the same time. Is it possible to get the bushings pressed in with basic garage DIY tools (vice, etc)? Or do I need to take the arms to a shop to have them pressed in? I still have to order the correct tool for the ball joint, the one I got was way too big. Maybe I'll save that project for next month.

Here are some pics to share:
Getting the new tie rod assembly to roughly the same length. Using the old one as a guide.

Loosely assembled in the garage:

Pitman arm and Idler arms are loosely bolted in while I get the tie rod fitment and try to get the wheels pointed straight.

There was lots of back and forth from one side of the car to the other trying to get the wheels pointed straight and the pitman arm locked into the right spot. While the wheels are now pointed forward, the steering wheel is at 3 o'clock. I'm hoping I can pull the steering off and turn it back to 12 0'clock. If not I guess I need to unbolt the pitman arm and move it over a few splines.

One final question. Do I need to grease these fittings? They are Moog components and appear to be pre-greased. I have a grease gun, but didn't know if I need to load up all the joints really well.

The Pitman Arm Spline Nut is 1-15/16" and torqued to 120 ft/lbs. I doubt you'll be able to use a monkey wrench to torque that nut so it's best to get yourself a socket. Since it's a steering component, don't skip getting a socket to torque the nut for safety reasons. The last thing you need is for the pitman arm to dislocate and lose your steering!

Thank you! I hadn't thought that far ahead. I went and got the correct socket and was able to torque the new pitman arm to 120 ft/lbs.

 

[SF-66TC]

Yes, you do need to grease the joints. Fill them until you see the grease just start to peek out the rubber seal. Looks like you got the RareParts Diamond Series Pitman without the blind splines - is that correct?

If you have your tie-rods EXACTLY the same thread counts as the original ones and you definitely have the pitman installed correctly, your steering wheel should be positioned at the same location before you took things apart. You should have 3.5 full turns lock to lock. If you do, then at 1-3/4 turns from either side your front wheels should be pointing straight (if that's how they were before you dismantled things). If you DON'T have 3.5 turns then your pitman is probably positioned incorrectly.

The Ball Joints for the UCA's are on there really tight so you'll need a good flex bar and a good length pipe to to extend the bar for the additional leverage to help break them loose. If you have access to a torque multiplier bar that would be even better.

For the Ball Joints themselves you need is a 3/4" drive 1-7/8" socket. Amazon product ASIN B00063K9K2
If you're going to change the upper and lower control arm bushings you might as well change the strut rod, sway bar and sway bar link bushings while you're at it since you will need to remove all those components anyway. You'll also need to slide the tortion bars back so it will also be best to get a tortion bar removal tool.
I got mine from carshopinc.com and it works fantastic! American Muscle 23461 MOPAR Torsion Bar Remover & Installer $30.95 BUY ONLINE

Carshopinc.com also has an upper control arm bushing remover/installer, but they don't have one for the lower control arm. Not sure if they're the correct tools for a C-body though... I ended up taking mine to a shop to change my LCA bushings and they charged an hour labor. I provided them with the following instructions -http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/mopp-0306-replacing-front-suspensions-lower-control-arm-bushings/

 

[jstaples2]

Yes, you do need to grease the joints. Fill them until you see the grease just start to peek out the rubber seal. Looks like you got the RareParts Diamond Series Pitman without the blind splines - is that correct?

Yes, good eye. That's the pitman arm I purchased.

 

[polarus]

Well done, but next time you're out get yourself a BIGGER hammer.

 

[SF-66TC]

Yes, good eye. That's the pitman arm I purchased.

Since that is the pitman arm you have and it does NOT have the blind splines, you evidently installed it incorrectly. Don't know if you saw my post, but there are two lines on the RareParts pitman.

These two lines coincide with two of the blind spline locations of the original pitman. If you counted the number of splines in-between the two lines you can find the location of the 3rd & 4th blind splines.

I too installed my pitman in the incorrect position on the sector shaft, but that was because I when I had my box rebuilt the sector shaft was replaced because mine had stripped threads. My original sector shaft was replaced with a slightly different one as I was told all sector shafts are not completely 100% identical. That said, my steering center was slightly off, but toe adjustments usually remedy that.

The main blind spline (flat part) on the sector shaft should face directly to the rear of the car. I say main because that would be the blind spline for steering center. When the pitman arm is installed correctly it's ARM should also face the rear of the car. If you've marked where the blind splines would have been on the RareParts pitman, it should be easy to line up. It may take a couple of tries to get it correct being off 1 spline could be pretty much. Just make sure when you're done that you have the same number of turns of the steering wheel Left to Right from center. A good gauge is to also look at the position of your tires when your steering is full lock from Left to Right.

Below is a photo of the "Main Blind Spline" and its position as it faces the rear of the car.

 

[SF-66TC]

CLARIFICATION: For anyone using a RareParts Pitman Arm #20116 (for power steering only) this part comes WITHOUT the 4 Blind "FLAT" splines. I initially mentioned that the two scribe lines shown on the bottom side of the arm coincided with two of the FLAT spline locations of the original Pitman Arm (PA). To more accurately validate this for yourself the following suggestion should help -

1. Make an outline of your original PA and mark where the 4-FLAT splines are located
2. Lay the RareParts PA on top of the trace - the outline should match exactly
3. Note where the original 4-FLAT splines were marked and transfer them on the RareParts PA (nail polish works great)

MARK LOCATION OF 4-FLAT SPLINES

YES, I KNOW WHAT YOU ALL ARE THINKING LOL!!

Since this was only an after thought and I did not have the RareParts PA available to place over the outline, the photos should give the idea.