Garage lifts

[Newport 66]

As it gets harder to roll around on the concrete floor in the shop, I've been thinking about a lift. Due to low ceiling heights, I would be limited to getting a hoist that would get a car/truck abt 3-4 feet off the cement. Just looking for opinions and advice on what you guys have or can recommend. Leaning towards a 2 post but certainly open to suggestions.
Thanks in advance!!

 

[CBODY67]

Personally, I like the "muffler shop" drive-on lifts. Better 4-corner support of the weight, to me. You can get them with front and/or rear sliding jacks. Some used ones can be had as shops upgrade to newer stuff.

What are the specs on the slab you're going to be purring this lift on? With all due respect, the one pictured looks like a "tilt" getting ready to happen. Too much force on those mounting lugs in the slab, to me. Better to have them spread out more with more surface area than just concentrated in TWO spots.

With such an above-ground lift, and all vehicles being about 60% of the weight on the front axle, lift placement and vehicle door location can be important. So many of these issues aren't there in the muffler shop-style drive-on lifts.

If you are going to put only late model vehicles on it, then one of the rocker panel contact lifts might work. But they might be better suited to more modern fwd vehicles and pickup trucks.

As always, intended weight capabilities is important, plus the voltage it takes to run them.

CBODY67

 

[commando1]

What is your actual ceiling height.

 

[HWYCRZR]

I am interested in this topic as a lift is on my wish list.
I am leaning towards a 4 post as they can be moved around or re positioned with a wheel kit. 4 post is also good for suspension work where you need the weight of the vehicle loads for adjustments. Can run of a 110 volt outlet.
Disadvantages are they are more bulky than a 2 post, the platform could be in your way sometimes, and you need to add a jack tray or two.

2 post: more free space under the vehicle. And may take up less space when empty.
Disadvantages are you need to make sure your concrete slab is thick enough and strong enough to permanently mount the lift. Once installed it is not moveable. Knowing the correct balance and weight distribution of your vehicle is critical. Suspension work can be more challenging. Most require 220 Voltage.

My opinion.
I am leaning towards a 4 post for my space, and to be able to switch garages if I desire. I have 11-12’ clearance in one garage and 10’ in the other.

 

[Newport 66]

My ceiling is 9', but with lights, working height is 8' 6" approx. I thought about a drive on with front and rear Jack's that go forward and back on tracks. But that's too much shop floor space being taken up all the time. A 4 post would be my choice I think. The 2 post was just for reference purposes. Mainly it will be used for my 66 Newport, 78 Dodge pickup etc. The Kia will be on it for just for oil changes, tire rotations etc.

 

[Newport 66]

Oh, the floor is 6" fiber reinforced concrete.....

 

[Mr onetwo]

Been using my MaxJax for almost 4 years now...best thing I have ever purchased and used.Perfect with your height restrictions and movable when not in use.They have an improved MX6 model now too.I can't recommend this lift more highly!

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Drive 4 post is best. I don't like two pist lifts for our heavy unibody cars. Keep the weight on the suspension and add a jack tray.

Best is 12 feet clearance, but with newr hoists you can program (add stops) for your upper limits to avoid issues with low ceilings.

 

[Rapidtrans777]

Oh, the floor is 6" fiber reinforced concrete.....

I'm in the market also. From the research I have done you're good up to a 15000lb 2 post with 6".

 

[rapidtrans]

The four post is the route I plan to go. The stall can still be used for parking. The two post design puts the posts right at the doors.

 

[FURYGT]

Get a study, non el-cheepo 4 post lift. I have had one for about 13 years. Don't get one that is a narrow space saver unit as it might be too narrow for your truck. I have 2 sliding heavy duty trays with mine that I can put bottle jacks or small floor jacks in to raise the car while on the lift if I need to do work with the wheels off. I have even used it to do a few engine swaps. Just lift it off the floor enough to get the engine crane legs under it and you are good to go.

One recommendation - pay extra for light weight ramps for a 4 post drive on style lift. If you don't, the first time you bang your head on a ramp you will remember my advise.

With a 4 post you can safely store a low car below. If it were me, I would relocate the lighting to get that extra clearance space. Thankfully, I built my garage with 13' from the floor to the bottom of the trusses and went with high lift tracks for the overhead doors. The photo angle makes the lift look like the front post is tilted and the rack is bent but that is an optical illusion.

 

[FinFury]

I can see two problems with a four post lift. First, it costs almost three times more than two post lift and second it is not usually suitable for dropping engine "from below" which might be an issue for someone.

I have a four post lift and I am considering two post lift for the second garage I am building for those engine and suspension removals which have to happen from the below. If I could have only one, I would probably end up with the four post as it is fairly good for almost all jobs and great when storing cars over each other

 

[sixpkrt]

I went with the 4 post lift mainly because I thought they were safer, after seeing several Youtube video's of cars falling off the 2 post set-ups. Secondly considering the weight of a C body, and making sure the car is balanced safely before lifting on a 2 post lift is something that I didn't want to worry about. In addition, I liked that the 4 post didn't need to be anchored to the ground and that it could be moved around your shop with the casters that were provided with the purchase.
The lift I went with was Direct Lift's PP8S, 8000 lb. capacity unit.
I'm including the cover and dimension pages from the manual, and a couple pics with one of my cars on top, and fully lifted.
Ceiling height and the height of you vehicles are important. With my 300 on top it's right at 11'.
But if have limited ceiling height, you can still make it work with 2 cars, since it's not necessary to have lift fully extended.
The measurement from the top of roof of my car on the bottom to the bottom of the base of the car above is about 1 foot, so you may have some room to figure if it will work with lower ceiling height.

 

[67Monaco]

When it's time I'm doing the in-floor scissor lift. I perfer not to lose all my floor space to a lift. But since in my builder's infinite wisdom they ran the water lines diagonally through the garage slab. So I have to save for not only the lift, the floor modifications, but also rerouting water. I may move first... But when it's time..


For now though it'll probably quick Jack.

Commercial Grade Scissor Car Lift by Atlas 9,000 lb Capacity


In-floor Scissor Lift Install - The Garage Journal Board - Home decor and design

 

[commando1]

Here's an inexpensive two post lift...

 

[65sporty]

I am a 2 post guy, but I use them every day at work. We have 4 of them, a 7,000 and a 9,000 lb asymmetrical, a 9,000 lb symmetrical and a 12,000lb symmetrical. All rotary, great quality, but may be a little more than what you would need for occasional use.

 

[Kp1226]

I've had a Bendpack 9000lb 4 post extra wide extra long, with adjustable for about 5 months. Best purchase I've ever made.

I do a lot of work that requires weight on the suspension.

Sometimes the runways do get in the way, but nothing that is a deal breaker.

I've worked under 2 posts before, and you have to be careful about balancing them before you lift the vehicle, not to mention that if you pull a motor, trans, or rearend you need to be cognizant of the front to rear balance.

As for the jack trays, I made my own out of c-channel. I was using a bottle jack, built recently bought a cheap air bag lift, which was the second best purchase I've ever made.

Both styles of lift have their positives and negatives, but whichever style you buy will make life much much easier.

 

[HWYCRZR]

I've had a Bendpack 9000lb 4 post extra wide extra long, with adjustable for about 5 months. .........As for the jack trays, I made my own out of c-channel. I was using a bottle jack, built recently bought a cheap air bag lift, which was the second best purchase I've ever made.


View attachment 219116

Tell me more about the air bags

Thanks

 

[Newport 66]

I've had a Bendpack 9000lb 4 post extra wide extra long, with adjustable for about 5 months. Best purchase I've ever made.

I do a lot of work that requires weight on the suspension.

Sometimes the runways do get in the way, but nothing that is a deal breaker.

I've worked under 2 posts before, and you have to be careful about balancing them before you lift the vehicle, not to mention that if you pull a motor, trans, or rearend you need to be cognizant of the front to rear balance.

As for the jack trays, I made my own out of c-channel. I was using a bottle jack, built recently bought a cheap air bag lift, which was the second best purchase I've ever made.

Both styles of lift have their positives and negatives, but whichever style you buy will make life much much easier.

View attachment 219116

How high is your ceiling?

 

[Kp1226]

Tell me more about the air bags

Triple bagair jack. Has an inlet, and outlet with an internal spring to retract it.

Tried to use a bottle jack for the first few months that I had the lift, but that was a PITA.

Made a sliding tray out of some heavy c-channel. Much cheaper, and as effective as the sliding air jack.