How to remove the stock pcv valve?
- Thread starter Cartel
- Start date
Take the hose off then the cap. There s a sheetmetal nut holding it into the cap. Have some NORS if needed also.
Considering the cost of new metal valves, you might soak it in solvent to loosen and free-up any accumulation inside of the valve. The "check" for a good valve is to shake it and listen for the bouncing of the internal, spring-loaded valve.
To disassemble, remove the metal nut on top of the metal housing the valve is in. No big deal. DO keep that metal nut as you'll need it to put things back together. Under the housing is a u-shaped item which contacts with the snout on the valve cover, to keep it all in place in the valve cover.
MY experience is that those metal valves do not go bad, just get clogged up with engine oil deposits. I always would get some spray carb cleaner and carefully spritz some into the valve, stopping when clear fluid comes out. I would even close off the top end with one finger, fill the valve with cleaner, close off the other end with another finger, then shake and such until things sounded clean, then flush and rinse the valve until the cleaner comes out clean. Then reassemble into the holder, attach the vac hose, and DONE.
When those metal valves were newer, seems like I did get a new one, but it made NO difference in how the vehicle ran or performed. So it was cleaning after that. Still have the OEM production item in my tool box, too!
I also clean the plastic valves the same way, too. I know it is easier to just replace them, BUT when I have done that, the vehicles ran no better, so I just started cleaning them all.
MAIN thing is that the spring inside of them is still good. Which can be indicated by how the item inside of the valve shakes when cleaned. IF the spring might be broken, then a new valve is needed.
From MY experiences,
CBODY67
To disassemble, remove the metal nut on top of the metal housing the valve is in. No big deal. DO keep that metal nut as you'll need it to put things back together. Under the housing is a u-shaped item which contacts with the snout on the valve cover, to keep it all in place in the valve cover.
MY experience is that those metal valves do not go bad, just get clogged up with engine oil deposits. I always would get some spray carb cleaner and carefully spritz some into the valve, stopping when clear fluid comes out. I would even close off the top end with one finger, fill the valve with cleaner, close off the other end with another finger, then shake and such until things sounded clean, then flush and rinse the valve until the cleaner comes out clean. Then reassemble into the holder, attach the vac hose, and DONE.
When those metal valves were newer, seems like I did get a new one, but it made NO difference in how the vehicle ran or performed. So it was cleaning after that. Still have the OEM production item in my tool box, too!
I also clean the plastic valves the same way, too. I know it is easier to just replace them, BUT when I have done that, the vehicles ran no better, so I just started cleaning them all.
MAIN thing is that the spring inside of them is still good. Which can be indicated by how the item inside of the valve shakes when cleaned. IF the spring might be broken, then a new valve is needed.
From MY experiences,
CBODY67
Cartel
Active Member
ok thanks! so take the nut off and thread out the pcv? Mine bound up on the way out so I stopped and put it back not knowing if I was gonna ruin it forcing it out.
It must be carboned up on the end of the threads.
I will soak it and try to recover it.
God Bless!
It must be carboned up on the end of the threads.
I will soak it and try to recover it.
God Bless!
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
The cap just pulls off, take it off then take the nut off.
Alan
Alan
IIRC, there is a shoulder on the valve itself, as the valve installs from the underside of the cap which is around it. Remove the complete mechanism from the valve cover and engine first. When you remove the metal nut, then the valve will come out of the bottom of the assy. Which will also loosen the u-shaped spring inside of the assy, which will also come out. Not a very complex assy, but it works well for what it is. Best to do all of the disassembly on a work bench, or a protected fender area.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Cartel
Active Member
I knew there was something. thank you.
darth_linux
Senior Member
Side question here - is the “holder” supposed to be engine color or satin black? I’ve seen both …
Correct color matches the valve cover color. In the case of the crinkle black valve covers on some 426HEMIs, the case is black, also. Otherwise, engine color. By the time the Chrysler Blue started, the valve was on the lh side and put into a rubber grommet rather than a tube.
Just my obervations,
CBODY67
Just my obervations,
CBODY67
darth_linux
Senior Member
Thanks.
Not trying to hijack this thread, buy my PCV "assembly" won't come off either. The lock nut loosens, but the engine painted holder thing that the PCV valve lives is seems to be stuck to the valve cover. There are AC and heater hoses covering it up, and I can't seem to find a way to get any leverage on the thing to pull it off. Does it pull off? Twist off? Why would mine be so stuck? I just want to clean out the valve because it's been who knows how long since anyone has done anything with it.
Thanks again.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
They just pull off, probably rust or gunk.
You may need remove the valve cover so you can invert it and spray some WD-40 or something in it.
Alan
You may need remove the valve cover so you can invert it and spray some WD-40 or something in it.
Alan
darth_linux
Senior Member
Ok, I’ll try percussive persuasion.
It just slides in. No threads, tangs, etc. That u-shaped spring physically contacts the inner part of the tube it slides into, so it's a "friction fit" and not threaded.
CBODY67
darth_linux
Senior Member
For future viewers and searches, I got my “stuck” PCV valve holder off by gently pulling on the valve with one hand and striking the holder with a wooden mallet in the other. Took a couple of taps to break the gunk free but it then easily slid off. Percussive persuasion was the solution!
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The inner flat spring, which is what is under the cap, is what keeps things where they should be. With the stamped metal screw on to keep the valve in the correct position on the cap assy. Should be just a slip fit to remove and install, when everything is "right".
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Enjoy!
CBODY67
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