Hp manifolds or TTI headers

[Bcopper]

Can anyone please give me part numbers or sell me hp manifolds for a 67 Newport with a 383? Driver and passenger side. This subject appears muddy as to what fits with the torsion bar setup. What are your thought on the TTI header and exhaust setup? Is it worth the money? How about quality and fitment?
Thanks in advance!

 

[darth_linux]

The TTI website provides the part numbers for the lo-po and hi-po manifolds on the page where you figure out what kit you want to order. They ask which manifolds you have and provide part numbers, so you could reverse engineer those into eBay, Craigslist or similar to come up with the ones you want/need.

From what I’ve read on these forums, TTI has about a 90% satisfaction rate, and those who were satisfied said it was worth the money.

I got a quote from a local muffler shop for a 2 1/2” dual exhaust with H pipe for $900, so you might be able to go cheaper than TTI and support your local economy.

 

[CBODY67]

Personally, I would opt for the TTI kit as it is consistent in quailty and fit. There is NO generic "local exhaust shop" where one shop does things well as do all of the other ones. Many local exhaust shops CAN do good work, but "good work" has different definitions, too.

Personally, I like exh systems which can pretty much be installed in the driveway with the car securely on jackstands, with clamps and OEM-style hangers (found in the back of the Wlaker Exhaust master catalog, probably at NAPA as they sell Walker Exh items under the Walker Exh part numbers). From what I've seen, most local exh shops will make hangers themselves, which will work, but they'll look like "home made" rather than not. BTAIM

The reason the exh manifold casting number is important is that in some model years, for whatever reason, the flanges where the pipe bolts to can be clocked differently than other years. NO generic one fits all engines and all body platforms. As ALL Chrysler products have torsion bar front suspensions, torsioin bars are not an issue.

NOW, TTI builds (or used to only have) one C-body kit. As you might know, there were wheelbases which ranged from 119" to 124", so I suspect they would be optimized for 122" wheelbases. Their literature and others in here who have used them might confirm this.

On the factory OEM system listingsin the Walker Exh master catalog illustrations, that wheelbase difference is usually made up in the head pipes which bolt to the exh manifolds, with the rest of the system being the same, regardless of the wheelbase. The rear pipes might be a bit different too, due to rear body length differences AND the fact the '65-'69 C-body rear quarter panels have an upward sweep between the rear wheels and the rear bumper. As the '69-'73 C-bodies have a more "level" rear quarter panel lower contour. Knowing these things, I'd still opt for the TTI system, my self.

Just some thoughts and observations,
CBODY67

 

[LocuMob]

I have to headers and exhaust on one car, and the exhaust on another. I wish they were cheaper, but I'll buy a set of headers for at least one more car, and exhaust for another two cars.

I like their systems, the 2.5" is nice and fits well, and the 3" while tight is my preferred choice, and what I'll buy for the aforementioned cars.

The headers are solid, and luckily, my column linkage didn't require their modified piece to clear the pipe on the driver's side.

I got a quote from a local muffler shop for a 2 1/2” dual exhaust with H pipe for $900, so you might be able to go cheaper than TTI and support your local economy.

Last time I looked at pricing, that was about what a manifold back system with mufflers was running for. Sadly the exhaust place nearby closed a couple of years ago, so mail order is my easiest way to get pipes on a car.

 

[57fury440]

What are your goals for the car? A nice driver or a show quality restoration? If you are doing a 100% restoration, then headers would be incorrect and the TTI exhaust would be the way to go with the correct diameter pipes. If it is a nice driver, a good shop could bend the pipes for you for a lot less money and adding headers would be an option. There are good shops and not so good shops. If you go that way, ask other hobbyists in your area who they use.

 

[Davea Lux]

If you are doing a performance build, then it probably makes sense to put a good set of headers on the car. If you are just replacing the exhaust on a a stock engine, then you probably are not going to get a big boost in performance by just adding headers. I personally have had lousy luck with headers on the street because the headers need flange gaskets where they meet the heads and there are not any that do not blow out often. Headers also make it a PIA to change starters or steering gears.

Dave

 

[LocuMob]

I personally have had lousy luck with headers on the street because the headers need flange gaskets where they meet the heads and there are not any that do not blow out often. Headers also make it a PIA to change starters or steering gears.

The gaskets supplied by tti for the headers are the beefiest ones I've laid eyes on, and I've had no issues since installation close to a decade ago. I've swapped the starter (mini) out with ease and plugs are easily accessible. I'm happy with them.

 

[67_300_Convertible]

I have the full TTI exhaust (2.5"), from headers all the way back, on the 350HP 440/727 in my '67. Motor has been rebuilt: .030 over, with a mild cam, basically stock heads, Edelbrock Performer intake and Holley Sniper EFI/Hyperspark ignition. Gears are 3.23. (For the haters, I know I don't "need" headers for this motor, but I didn't have HP manifolds and didn't want to try to find some or reuse my original exhaust manifolds.)

Car was mechanically restored/upgraded professionally in Summer of 2023. Headers were bought uncoated and ceramic coated black locally. Exhaust was painted. After about 1500 miles of driving, I love the TTI system. Sound is great with no drone while cruising.

As a side note, not long after I got the car in 1990, I had a Meineke shop weld up a dual exhaust to the original manifolds. That old system droned very badly, so after 33 years with it I know the difference.

Here are some photos of the 2023 restoration work in progress. Some thoughts: Clearance on the torsion bars and transmission linkage was no issue, but you may have trouble getting the original hard lines for the transmission cooler to fit. Mine didn't. Note the rubber cooler lines in the photos. Otherwise exhaust fitment was straightforward. Hope this helps you with your decision.
_____________________________
With a newly painted black frame and lower firewall, the black headers sort of disappear.

Oxygen sensor for Holley Sniper.

Note the heat shielding on ATF lines. The shop spilled fluid while filling trans; it doesn't have a leak.

Rear sway bar (aftermarket from PST) is shown here between the shocks and exhaust pipes. It was moved and is now mounted to the body behind the exhaust pipes.

And here's a view of the tailpipes.

 

[HOT FURY]

Can anyone please give me part numbers or sell me hp manifolds for a 67 Newport with a 383? Driver and passenger side. This subject appears muddy as to what fits with the torsion bar setup. What are your thought on the TTI header and exhaust setup? Is it worth the money? How about quality and fitment?
Thanks in advance!

another option if you aren't going crazy horsepower these schumacher's will keep your low end torque better by design and slightly smaller primary tube size from the tti's

Engine swap solutions for your classic Dodge, Chrysler, Plymouth

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Headers, it improves everything, mpg, throttle response, torque, HP.
Factory exhaust systems on these new cars is a big reason they get the incredible mpg they get. Don't believe the bullshit about small pipes/back pressure producing torque. Small exhaust pipes don't produce anything except **** gas mileage and less headaches for exhaust shops. There are countless Dyno runs on the Internet that disprove this.
If your not going to fix the whole exhaust just replace it with a single exhaust.
Exhaust manifolds suck!

 

[67_300_Convertible]

Headers, it improves everything, mpg, throttle response, torque, HP.
Factory exhaust systems on these new cars is a big reason they get the incredible mpg they get. Don't believe the bullshit about small pipes/back pressure producing torque. Small exhaust pipes don't produce anything except **** gas mileage and less headaches for exhaust shops. There are countless Dyno runs on the Internet that disprove this.
If your not going to fix the whole exhaust just replace it with a single exhaust.
Exhaust manifolds suck!

Don't be shy; tell us what you really think.

 

[496 polara]

Nothing wrong with hp manifolds. Kinda dig the look on a C body as you don't see them used much on C bodies. I ran a set on a 71 Chrysler 300 with a warmed over 440 and it was a blast and looked cool under the hood.Like a stock 440 magnum/TNT would have.

That being said I would rather have the Schumacher tri y than the Tti on a stock/mild C body build. Reason being the Tti headers are 1 7/8 primary tubes and and a heavy,highway geared,stockish big block just doesn't need that big of a tube. Case in point my old 70 Polara with a ported head/solid cammed 496 with 3.55 gears actually slowed down going from 1 3/4 tube Hooker Super competition headers to 1 7/8 Tti until I went with more gear and converter.

I think a stock(ish) 383/440 would do really well with the tri y headers and a 2.5 mandrel exhaust.

I almost put the ones I pulled off my 440 Duster on my Newport but I saved the old Hooker 1 3/4 Super Comps I took off my Polara years ago. So my low compression 400 will have a bangin set of long tube headers.

 

[CBODY67]

When you start dealing with headers, there are MORE considerations than just primary pipe/tube diameter. Not to forget engine displacement and other engine performance upgrades. A system which might be good for a 5.9L (of either engine family) might get "iffy" for a 400, and not big enough for a 450+ cid engine.

Tri-Y headers are supposed to be better due to the way the pipes are "staged" in the collector area, such that better cylinder scavenging is achieved. Even if it amounts to 5 more horsepower, that's enough to be claimed "better".

Other than the head flange thickness and pipe wall thickness, the other issue is how low do they hang past the stubframe? Low enough to catch on things, denting them, plus any interference with under-car linkages.

To me, the ideal thing would be some HP headers which have been extrude honed for a smoother interior surface finish. Rather than the as-cast finish all of them have. Quieter, better flow, and they hook up to a normal exhaust system.

Seems like that the '67 GTX 440HP exh manifolds were supposed to be about 15 horsepower less than the best set of headers, back then? Headers being worth generally 30 horsepower over the stock exh manifolds, back then. Without all of the headaches with flange gaskets, fitment, and such. Seems like a good trade-off to me. As flaky as the 300J engine which Nick did, as archaic as those factory exh manifolds looked, that engine made massive amounts of power and torque. On another 440, the 1950s inline 2x4bbl intake made a bit over 500 lfs/gt of torque . . . in a 1958 Chrysler cast iron intake manifold.

Whatever works . . .

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[HOT FURY]

Headers, it improves everything, mpg, throttle response, torque, HP.
Factory exhaust systems on these new cars is a big reason they get the incredible mpg they get. Don't believe the bullshit about small pipes/back pressure producing torque. Small exhaust pipes don't produce anything except **** gas mileage and less headaches for exhaust shops. There are countless Dyno runs on the Internet that disprove this.
If your not going to fix the whole exhaust just replace it with a single exhaust.
Exhaust manifolds suck!

ummmm theres more physics to air flow than that, if bigger is better then every naturally aspirated car would just come with a huge 6" exhaust pipe for unrestricted flow! Properly sized pipes and pipe junction locations are critical for proper flow

 

[Just Carbs]

A few years ago, the local exhaust shop did a dual from the manifolds back, from pipe. Two mufflers, two resonators. The cost was $450.
The car was a 76 New Yorker 440. They welded everything and made the hangers. It fit good. Very quiet and no drone. The old single system was totally shot, all of it. Had to do something.
The car did gain better part throttle response.
I was pleased.

 

[Dads300]

I think I’d try to find a set of the 440 c body hp exhaust manifolds, they have a 2 1/2” outlet vs the 2 1/4” or whatever the 383 versions had.
Travis..

 

[NC300]

Can anyone please give me part numbers or sell me hp manifolds for a 67 Newport with a 383? Driver and passenger side. This subject appears muddy as to what fits with the torsion bar setup. What are your thought on the TTI header and exhaust setup? Is it worth the money? How about quality and fitment?
Thanks in advance!

I bought a set of HP manifolds but ended up with TTI headers due to the angled plugs on Edelbrock heads.

The headers fit well and they will work fine.

I still have the drivers side hp manifold. DM me if you are interested.

NC300

 

[70bigblockdodge]

ummmm theres more physics to air flow than that, if bigger is better then every naturally aspirated car would just come with a huge 6" exhaust pipe for unrestricted flow! Properly sized pipes and pipe junction locations are critical for proper flow

No, once it starts to cool it's just physics, the thermo part goes away.
6" pipe cost too much, and thats why it is not on a car. If the car companies did not have to compete with each other for MPG and satisfy the government they would still be putting single exhaust on every car you didn't pay the upcharge for dual or better exhaust, because it's cheap and good enough. Same as the **** manifolds on cars cheap and good enough with no warranty work. Don't try to justify that stupid wives tale. No, you do not need a 6" pipe, but a 2" single exhaust on a 383 is not making it run better.

 

[Big_John]

Can anyone please give me part numbers or sell me hp manifolds for a 67 Newport with a 383? Driver and passenger side. This subject appears muddy as to what fits with the torsion bar setup. What are your thought on the TTI header and exhaust setup? Is it worth the money? How about quality and fitment?
Thanks in advance!

My two cents... Which with inflation is more like 8 bucks.

I've been called a "purist" for voicing an opinion about headers before when someone can't handle a differing view. I see what makes them happy so I laugh at it. "Purist" I'm not, but I digress....

Ever own a car with headers? They can be great for a car that you are racing and a general PITA for a car that you are just cruising around in.

The downsides are they are more prone to leaks at the heads or the collectors. Some headers make it hard to change a starter or make you switch to a smaller starter. Then there's ground clearance. I've seen headers destroyed by bottoming on railroad tracks. They can also be noisier.

The good thing is they do flow more... But you have to understand that extra flow might not help until higher RPM. A lot depends on design... Smaller and longer primary pipes help lower end torque while larger, shorter pipes help at the upper end. Then there's the tri-y designs etc. Most are limited by fit though and a C-body will only have a few headers to chose from. With a heavy Chrysler, low end is what you want.

IMHO, the best bang for the buck for a street car that doesn't ever see the drag strip is a set of HP manifolds. They are the easiest to install and maintain. HP loss is minimal, if any at lower RPM. They'll last forever and all you need is the casting number to give to TTI and you'll have a nice exhaust system that will fit great and you won't have to touch for many years.

But, that's just my opinion and the guys that run headers may say different. I've run headers on the street on a few cars that I occasionally raced. For that intended use, they were great and I was willing to live with them. For cars I never intended to race, the HP manifolds really were better. In fact, I removed a set on my A12 Roadrunner and went to the correct HP manifolds. On the street, there wasn't any noticeable change in performance based on my "seat of the pants" dyno.

 

[57fury440]

I agree with Big_John. I have had several cars with headers over the years, but they were cars that I took to the track. When I stopped racing my 57, I went to the HP manifolds. I have never had any issues with the factory manifolds.