Transmission Cooler Lines and TTI Headers

MJFUR

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Trying to find some "detailed" information on transmission cooler lines. I have a 69 Chrysler 300, Automatic, the car came with the base 440 (single exhaust). When I converted to HP manifolds and TTI 2.5" exhaust the transmission lines needed to be adjusted/bent a bit for the new driver side exhaust pipe. All well and good. I'm now updating to TTI Headers and these original transmission cooler lines are in the way far more than simple adjusting will fix.

1. Did single exhaust cars and dual exhaust cars use the same transmission cooler lines, part #?
2. Are the transmission cooler lines the same on 70, 71, 72 dual exhaust cars?

I've reached out to TNT440, but haven't received a response so far. His transmission cooler lines are the fit that I need.
71 New Yorker restoration finally complete

Thx
 
If you bought some fittings for using a stainless steel braided-sheath rubber line, then you could custom-route the lines as needed?

Just a thought,
CBODY67
 
I have the full TTI system, headers and all. I bought a set of pre-made, pre-bent lines from one of the places recomended on here. I used my custom "hand wrench" to make them fit without lifting the motor, taking off the headers, or any such nonsense.
 
I have the full TTI system, headers and all. I bought a set of pre-made, pre-bent lines from one of the places recomended on here. I used my custom "hand wrench" to make them fit without lifting the motor, taking off the headers, or any such nonsense.
Feel free to come to Texas with your "wrench" anytime you like. Have at it. I'll buy the beer and BBQ.

My install has been one total PITA on a freshly overhauled car. Everything needed to come apart, torsion bars, steering column, raise the engine, and a hundred other little odds & ends that created problems that needed to be addressed to get to the next step. Still not finished.
 
Feel free to come to Texas with your "wrench" anytime you like. Have at it. I'll buy the beer and BBQ.

My install has been one total PITA on a freshly overhauled car. Everything needed to come apart, torsion bars, steering column, raise the engine, and a hundred other little odds & ends that created problems that needed to be addressed to get to the next step. Still not finished.
And this is why I never installed headers again on anything after running them on my 69 Charger 440 in my youth. Total PIA.
 
The issue with headers, equal-length tube headers, is their many twists, turns, and curves until they get to the collector, which might or might not be up close to the floorpan. By a bit of contrast, many "block hugger" or similar current headers are not nearly so "equal-length tubes" as they used to be. In that respect, they are simply tubular exhaust manifolds with better flow due to their smoother interior surfaces, I suspect. In the case of many OEMs, they also do not absorb needed heat to get the cat converters fired off quickly on a cold start situation. I suspect TTI's products are in that more middle-ground of thing?

In many cases, back then, headers were never really easy drop-in installations. Even on the popular Chevy small block applications, there was usually some strong words, use of a ball pein hammer to "clearance" some tubes, and holding your mouth right to get them to bolt up to the cyl heads before it was all over. And the supplied gaskets were very low quality, so they leaked and blew-out, no matter what you did to prevent those things, except getting better quality gaskets.

Most of those things were considered "part of the deal" if you wanted headers AND some didn't find out about them UNTIL the time of installation. Like "Oh yeah, you've got to . . .", PLUS whatever you had to do to clear the steering system and trans linkage, too. And, all brands were not the same in getting them installed, so asking around saved some time and efforts in getting them installed.

What I was a bit surprised at was how the engine in my friend's '79 Corvette ran after getting a set of thick-tube/flange headers put on (himself). Throughout the entire rpm range, throttle response was cleaner and the engine sounded happier whether it was at 1000rpm or 5000rpm. Getting a better scavenge, even at low rpms, works best. AND, once the headers were installed with the reinforced gaskets and better bolts that did not loosen, they were quiet and durable. Just getting "there" was the trick.

In the Chrysler realm of things, the B/RB and LA HP exh manifolds were close enough to headers (in power production) that adding headers was for the more hard-core people than not. Especialy as they just bolted in with few other issues. So, "we got spoiled" unlike the Chevy people, it seems. THEN, for the 1990s LT (no dash) 1 (reverse flow cooling system) 350s, Chevy did a great copy of the Chrysler B/RB HP exhaust manifolds on that engine. Just they hid them under 2 layers of heat shielding. Such a deal!

From my observations,
CBODY67
 
In the Chrysler realm of things, the B/RB and LA HP exh manifolds were close enough to headers (in power production) that adding headers was for the more hard-core people than not. Especialy as they just bolted in with few other issues.
couldn't wind the 440 up in my '69 without blowing the header gaskets out. got so pissed off i cut the headers out of it with a torch. bolted up a pair of HP manifolds and never looked back.
 
I would too, but then I need to buy a roll of tube/line all of the tools and fittings needed to make them for a one time job.
I've made a few trans lines myself and the easiest way I've found is to buy the longest lengths of premade brake line (can't remember if it's 3/8 or 5/16") and a couple compression fittings.

Cut the premade flair off one end, put the correct nut on the remaining flare and start forming from either end. Do the same with another piece and work from the opposite end. Cut to fit in the middle and use the compression fittings to hold together. Do it right and the lines can now be easily removed and reinstalled if need be.

Another way is to use what you can of the existing line and again, using the premade line, add your new lines using that compression fitting.
 
I installed tti headers in my '67 Polara, and had no issues with transmission lines or anything else on the driver's side. My out of whack stub frame required the use of shims on the passenger side. The replacement idler arm had a grease zert that hit, so I took it off. Other than that, they fit great. How much difference under the hood is there between the Slab and Fusie body styles? Under my '71 Monaco wagon looks the same to me, other than disc brakes.

Hope you get it sorted out, and easily!
 
The car is finished, back together.

I ended up using some flexible braided lines and AN fittings. I took a piece of 1/4" steel dial rod and bent as necessary to fit, then zip tied the flexible lines to it. It acts like a spine and keeps the flexible lines from moving to much. Thx
 
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