I think it’s the Ballast resistor?

Do you guys know you can connect both ballast plug ins together and then drive the car again? All the ballast does is drop full voltage down to 8 or 9 going to the coil.

Doing this will put full system voltage to your coil which its not designed for but it will run and get you someplace. Instead of a tow truck or walking.
 
Do you guys know you can connect both ballast plug ins together and then drive the car again? All the ballast does is drop full voltage down to 8 or 9 going to the coil.

Doing this will put full system voltage to your coil which its not designed for but it will run and get you someplace. Instead of a tow truck or walking.
You will likely have burnt points in short order, at least in my experience, but it will allow you to drive.
 
You will likely have burnt points in short order, at least in my experience, but it will allow you to drive.
You are correct, but it will only apply to 5 people on this website! LOL
 
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Do you guys know you can connect both ballast plug ins together and then drive the car again? All the ballast does is drop full voltage down to 8 or 9 going to the coil.

Doing this will put full system voltage to your coil which its not designed for but it will run and get you someplace. Instead of a tow truck or walking.
That was my backup plan. I even wondered how far I could drive on full voltage before damage. I would have been about 60 miles from home. Also in theory per the FSM the higher speed cools the ballast resistor making it lower resistance. So at 70 mph I would do less damage than at idle?
 
earlier this year i was sorting out a coil/ballast resistor issue...searching around the factory manual, a motor manual, various forums and various vendors all claimed different resistances.. .the ''you have to buy ours all the others are wrong" pitch...and the half dozen or so ( most new ) that i had were different again...amazing how something so simple can be so difficult
 
My latest one was idling in a Mc'D's drive thru.
all was good until it suddenly stumbled & died.

Luckily there was an opening to push the car out of the queue with the help of a few people desperate for fast food LOL!

Sat for a few minutes, fired right up, idled smoothly dropped into drive then as soon as it went about 10' died again.

Hung another BR on the system and away I went but the drive wasn't a relaxing one wondering if it was going to die again on me.
But it's fine for now

The old BR looks great! but it's headed for the garbage can.
 
we parked the race car in about 1990 so my "new" ones were at least 30 yrs old...always had 2 mounted together so you could pull the wires off one and hookup the other...that was the first thing you did if it ran bad
 
we parked the race car in about 1990 so my "new" ones were at least 30 yrs old...always had 2 mounted together so you could pull the wires off one and hookup the other...that was the first thing you did if it ran bad
I have that on my 'street' car.
 
Do you guys know you can connect both ballast plug ins together and then drive the car again? All the ballast does is drop full voltage down to 8 or 9 going to the coil.

Doing this will put full system voltage to your coil which its not designed for but it will run and get you someplace. Instead of a tow truck or walking.

19?? (whatev'a) car theft kit.

Wire.wAlligator.Clips.jpg


Vintage-MAC-TOOLS-Wooden-Handle-Screwdriver-Wood.jpg


(Don't ask me how I know about this)

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For good measure I will pick up another at ORielly tomorrow. Also am going to test my old coil, and put in the tool bag for backup.

So does anyone have a picture of the NOS one from ‘68 era? P/N 2095501. Google show’s many different pictures.
Were they all ceramic? Or were they ceramic with the metal retainer?
 
Original ballast had a Metal strap wrapped around to mount. Two holes, there is a bump out on the firewall that goes in the other hole so they are level when tightened.

The all ceramic came out later on like mid 70’s.
 
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Shoot me a pm as a reminder have a box full. 72 up were definitely all ceramic because they went to electronic with the dual ballast. Thinking 68/69 was the change over?
We are beating the ecu/ballast/coil to death over on FBBO but coming up with a ton of great information that is documented on it.

Correct ballast resistor for standard to electronic conversion
 
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I remember all my 1968 Furys had this style from owning Furys from 1970 to 1986/7

NOS MOPAR BALLAST RESISTOR DODGE PLYMOUTH CHRYSLER 1965.jpg


I don't ever recall seeing the chinesium gold type plating on the bracket back then.

Mopar Ballast Resistor.002.jpg


This type back then was considered a 'Aftermarket' variety although doing this latest picture search I see many reference for 'Jeep'.
NOS Mopar Ballast Resistor 1956-71 All Models - Hiltop.jpg


Hope this helps.

I really can't ever remember having a problem with them back then, I had some spares, it's a pocket pull item, but I guess over 50 years of jump starting the battery can do weird things to the electrical system. I know jump starting someones frozen battery forever screwed up my electrical system on my 1968 Fury Fastop.

.
 
Well the saga continues. Some more trouble shooting in order. I agree the broken “caterpillar” in my original was probably an initial cause, but I hav further issues.
I got about 10 miles down the road this morning and it started cutting out again. Turned around, and it was running and cutting out the last mile. I connected the two wires together from the ballast resistor, but didn’t initially help. After cooling off for about 5-10 minutes it started and ran for a while and then started cutting out again and died.
Next step is to verify my points and gap are still set where they belong. Then a quick check of the condenser, before I look at the coil. I did pull my old one out of the drawer to check it out.
 
Points were a little close as .014 was tight (low end of spec. Specs are .014 -.019). Took some emory cloth and did a little sanding in case there were any high spots. Re adjusted to .016-.018.
Although not nominal. I wouldn’t think they were off enough to cause issues.
 
Never use emery cloth on any electric contacts, only use a clean file on points.
Only use flint paper on armatures or alternator slip rings.
 
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