Idler arm issue 75 newport

How does it attach on the formal? Two tabs sticking out or a pocket in the frame? If it has the tabs and someone put it in with only one washer and it bent the tabs when tightening it. I have spread the tabs some by stricking them with a hammer to get both washers to fit.

I should have delivery of the NOS idler in a few days.

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You can spread it with a porta power but assuming you do not have one, making a jack bolt out of a long bolt and nut to spread the tabs so new stuff fits.
 
Great idea. I want to see how the NOS idler fits before I do that.
 
Having been on an idler arm odyssey myself with my vans over the years, I can empathize with your plight. On my vans, for example (all of them....3 from the 80's, one from the 90's, and two from the last generation), all of them had washers situated inside the frame bracket, on the top and bottom of the idler arm shaft. Occasionally, the washers did not fit this way with a new arm, so I would substitute one that was just a hair thinner. Ideally, they will have to be tapped in place very lightly with a hammer, and lined up as best you can as the "idler arm sandwich" is coaxed into the bracket. I assure you without any doubt that there is no harm in substituting a slightly thinner washer, so long as the fit is snug. I have done so many of these on so many Mopars, I can hardly recount them all. It's become so ridiculous, I have a small stash of washers just for idler arms kept separate from other hardware. There are a couple of other ways to do this, I guess, but the idea of spreading apart the bracket always kind of made me apprehensive.

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I just received the NOS idler arm. I have some research to do....the part number on the NOS box is correct but the number on the NOS idler arm is off by one number.
 
Update, I researched the idler arm part number discrepancy and believe it or not the original broken idler arm on my NYB has the same part number cast on the idler arm 4014082 as the new NOS idler arm. The parts book and the invoice says 4014081. Strange...

However, the NOS idler arm doesn't come with the mounting bolt and nut and cotter pin. I'm working on getting those items. I'll post results when I get the rest of the arts and mount the new NOS idler arm.
 
Having been on an idler arm odyssey myself with my vans over the years, I can empathize with your plight. On my vans, for example (all of them....3 from the 80's, one from the 90's, and two from the last generation), all of them had washers situated inside the frame bracket, on the top and bottom of the idler arm shaft. Occasionally, the washers did not fit this way with a new arm, so I would substitute one that was just a hair thinner. Ideally, they will have to be tapped in place very lightly with a hammer, and lined up as best you can as the "idler arm sandwich" is coaxed into the bracket. I assure you without any doubt that there is no harm in substituting a slightly thinner washer, so long as the fit is snug. I have done so many of these on so many Mopars, I can hardly recount them all. It's become so ridiculous, I have a small stash of washers just for idler arms kept separate from other hardware. There are a couple of other ways to do this, I guess, but the idea of spreading apart the bracket always kind of made me apprehensive.

Do you have measurements of the thinner washers and maybe where you got them from or even a part number if that is possible? Just the thickness of the thinner washer will help. I'm going to keep the Moog (problem solver) idler arm for a back up. Hopefully I'll never have a need for it. LOL!
 
Update, I researched the idler arm part number discrepancy and believe it or not the original broken idler arm on my NYB has the same part number cast on the idler arm 4014082 as the new NOS idler arm. The parts book and the invoice says 4014081. Strange...
Remember that Mother Chrysler in her "wisdom" used that little prank for most of the years we are concerned with here - the actual listed part number will be one digit higher or lower than the casting number actually on the part itself. In other words, you have the right part in the box.
 
Casting number is not part number, usually to Id the part with its drawings and or design parameters. In other words it Id's the part from the other bent up gangly looking unmachined castings sitting in a foundry after they have been cut apart from the group they were cast with. Onto the reheat drop forged process next to organize the grain in the metal and increase density then on to machining before it starts to look like the part without the bushings and ball that you hold in your hand.
 
Update, I researched the idler arm part number discrepancy and believe it or not the original broken idler arm on my NYB has the same part number cast on the idler arm 4014082 as the new NOS idler arm. The parts book and the invoice says 4014081. Strange...

However, the NOS idler arm doesn't come with the mounting bolt and nut and cotter pin. I'm working on getting those items. I'll post results when I get the rest of the arts and mount the new NOS idler arm.


Here you go sir
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Do you have measurements of the thinner washers and maybe where you got them from or even a part number if that is possible? Just the thickness of the thinner washer will help. I'm going to keep the Moog (problem solver) idler arm for a back up. Hopefully I'll never have a need for it. LOL!
Nope. Given the endless variations, there is no exact formula. I have amassed a fair amount of hardware over the years, and having been through this repeatedly, I simply gathered up a few washers from my collection that I use for this purpose. If it helps, washers can often vary in thickness according to grade (grade 5, grade 8, etc.).
 
I found a NOS bolt. I'll have to use the old nut. Have to wait for the bodywork and paint and new vinyl to put the NOS idler arm on. I'll start amassing a few washers to keep for the Moog idler arm for future backup purposes.
 
It'll still be only work 1/4 what I have in it.....so far.
 
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