ignitor?

If you are replacing a basic point system with the Ignitor I then the answer is yes. Simple to do especially if using your stock coil. I still have two cars running a I with the stock yellow top coil. A stock 289 and modified 302.
 
I wouldn't use the original Pertronix Ignitor unless I could get real cheap (<$40). The Ignitor II is much better since you can lose your ballast resistor, use a better E-core coil, and open up your spark plug gaps to ~0.50". Ignitor III adds MSD. However, a better deal is probably an HEI distributor (~$80 for BB or RB on ebay, $45 for SB). That is simple to wire and gives you a new distributor with better pickup than the factory e-distributor.
 
Ah, one of the beauties of point ignition Fords. No ballast to ever fail just a pink resistance wire which plugs into the ignition wire at the switch. Can run an Ignitor I for years and years with no worries. Can run a II by running a wire back to the switch, put a female plug on the end, unplug the resistance wire and plug in the full voltage wire.

In the Ignitor II you will find the gap is variable. My Fords can only go from .035 to .040 after which nothing to gain. Thought of running a III in the modified 302 but the ROI wouldn't be much for a street driven car. I preferred the Ignitors because all other aftermarket systems, from Duraspark on up, are clearly not stock looking while my Ignitors are unseen. As you can tell I am not much into non OEM looking or restomod.
 
I installed ingnitor II on my 65 fury with 1979 s/six, do I need a better coil since the car is tuff to start when cold since I did this instalation.
 
I installed ingnitor II on my 65 fury with 1979 s/six, do I need a better coil since the car is tuff to start when cold since I did this instalation.
Detail how you wired it. For Ignitior II, you want to bypass the ballast resistor, using a dual male spade connector to connect the 2 female terminals together. If you don't, you won't have ignition power while cranking and it will only spark as you release the "start" (IGN2, brn wire) and it returns to "run" (IGN1, blu wire) position on the key switch, and might actually start in that instant if lucky. If wired correctly, the Ignitor II should get +12 V (or more) while both cranking and running. You are lucky that your 1965 was one of the few years with dedicated "buss lugs" for the ALT and BATT wires thru the bulkhead (1963 also), so you shouldn't have the "melted bulkhead" problems others do.
 
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