Instrument cluster removal
- Thread starter monaco
- Start date
Gauges or speedo?
Canadian Monaco for 66 uses a Plymouth Fury dash, so download the Factory Service Manual for 1966 Fury from mymopar.com
All of the stuff in your dash comes out from the front.
Disconnect your battery. ALWAYS.
GAUGES
The gauge pkg has phillips screws holding it into the dash - two above the gauges and three along the bottom. It slides out after they're removed. Be careful removing multi-pin wiring terminal, as the pins can break. Disconnect the amp gauge wiring.
This is the ideal time to perform the bulkead bypass for the amp gauge wiring. The main black and red wires going to and coming from the amp gauge pass through the spade connectors in the bulkhead, and typically overheat, melt, and cause fires. Bad design.
Eliminate the two 10 ga black and red wires going to the amp gauge from running through the bulkhead - and instead run them as unbroken 10 ga wires through a firewall grommet - you can likely poke them through the speedo cable grommet. Add a multi terminal junction box (NOT a common strip bus bar), and terminate each of the two wires at their own junction block, and then add a fusible link to each one by running the fusible link to another terminal, and then the original wires can continue from there to their destinations - the black one runs to the alternator, and the red one to the battery stud on the starter relay, through the original fusible link which you can remove from the bulhead and crimp-connect to the new red wire and then run it to its customary connection on the start relay.
WAY MORE SAFE.
Back to our regularly scheduled programming...
SPEEDO REMOVAL
Removing the speedo requires removing the gauges and as well, the dash faceplate.
1) If your car has a clock, remove the adjuster knob by using a small jeweller's flat head screw driver in the knob as you're pulling the knob towards from you. Be careful not to lose the little screw inside the knob.
2) If your car does not have AC, use a hex key and remove the two knobs for the temp and heat/defrost sliders. If your car has AC this step can be skipped.
3) If your car has a radio, remove the radio knobs by pulling them off. Remove the large shaft nuts from the shafts.
4) Remove the 5 or 6 phillips screws holding the faceplate to the dash, and remove the faceplate. The heater controls, clock and radio are all accessible now if they require removal.
5) Remove the column to dash cover from under the steering column. If your car has column shift, disconnect the gear indicator arm on the speedo housing from the steering column.
6) Lower the steering column by removing the nuts and clamp bracket securing the column to the dash. Support the wheel on a box on the front seat to reduce strain on the flex joint in the engine bay.
7) Remove the 4 phillips screws holding the speedo into the dash, and carefully draw it forward slightly. Reaching behind, release the wiring harness from the large clips under the speedo, and carefully remove the multi-pin wiring connector from the rear of the speedo housing. The turn signal bulbs just pop out. Undo the speedo cable by removing the collar nut. Remove the speedo.
This is all from memory, so if I've left anything out I apologize in advance.
Canadian Monaco for 66 uses a Plymouth Fury dash, so download the Factory Service Manual for 1966 Fury from mymopar.com
All of the stuff in your dash comes out from the front.
Disconnect your battery. ALWAYS.
GAUGES
The gauge pkg has phillips screws holding it into the dash - two above the gauges and three along the bottom. It slides out after they're removed. Be careful removing multi-pin wiring terminal, as the pins can break. Disconnect the amp gauge wiring.
This is the ideal time to perform the bulkead bypass for the amp gauge wiring. The main black and red wires going to and coming from the amp gauge pass through the spade connectors in the bulkhead, and typically overheat, melt, and cause fires. Bad design.
Eliminate the two 10 ga black and red wires going to the amp gauge from running through the bulkhead - and instead run them as unbroken 10 ga wires through a firewall grommet - you can likely poke them through the speedo cable grommet. Add a multi terminal junction box (NOT a common strip bus bar), and terminate each of the two wires at their own junction block, and then add a fusible link to each one by running the fusible link to another terminal, and then the original wires can continue from there to their destinations - the black one runs to the alternator, and the red one to the battery stud on the starter relay, through the original fusible link which you can remove from the bulhead and crimp-connect to the new red wire and then run it to its customary connection on the start relay.
WAY MORE SAFE.
Back to our regularly scheduled programming...
SPEEDO REMOVAL
Removing the speedo requires removing the gauges and as well, the dash faceplate.
1) If your car has a clock, remove the adjuster knob by using a small jeweller's flat head screw driver in the knob as you're pulling the knob towards from you. Be careful not to lose the little screw inside the knob.
2) If your car does not have AC, use a hex key and remove the two knobs for the temp and heat/defrost sliders. If your car has AC this step can be skipped.
3) If your car has a radio, remove the radio knobs by pulling them off. Remove the large shaft nuts from the shafts.
4) Remove the 5 or 6 phillips screws holding the faceplate to the dash, and remove the faceplate. The heater controls, clock and radio are all accessible now if they require removal.
5) Remove the column to dash cover from under the steering column. If your car has column shift, disconnect the gear indicator arm on the speedo housing from the steering column.
6) Lower the steering column by removing the nuts and clamp bracket securing the column to the dash. Support the wheel on a box on the front seat to reduce strain on the flex joint in the engine bay.
7) Remove the 4 phillips screws holding the speedo into the dash, and carefully draw it forward slightly. Reaching behind, release the wiring harness from the large clips under the speedo, and carefully remove the multi-pin wiring connector from the rear of the speedo housing. The turn signal bulbs just pop out. Undo the speedo cable by removing the collar nut. Remove the speedo.
This is all from memory, so if I've left anything out I apologize in advance.
Last edited:
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