Leed Brakes conversion

Vev78

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I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with this brake conversion kit?

I had a disc brake conversion done but am having issues with a hard pedal.

I verified good vacuum and booster is holding vacuum. If I unbolt the master cylinder from the booster, I get full pedal travel but not when the Master Cylinder is connected.

I did adjust the pushrod length using an H booster rod tool.

All brake lines are new.

Brakes work somewhat but feel like the pedal just isn't engaging the brake fully.

I appreciate any feedback.
 
Hopefully, whoever you paid to bolt this Leeds **** on your car gave you back the old parts so you can bolt them back on.

The Leeds kit uses a offshore sourced, copy of the GM booster and master cylinder and it seems like we see all sorts of problems at the pedal mounting... The pushrod never seems to be close in length or the ratio is wrong ad infinitum. Then you have to deal with undersized (for c-bodies) rotors etc.

We go over this so many times here.... Guys waste money and time on junk that does nothing to make the car stop any better.
 
I agree with @Big_John in that I tried their vacuum pump (not an entire conversion kit) and it was inconsistent at best. I could see it being useful if you were drag racing, but not cruising. I ultimately scrapped it in favor of hydroboost. The reason why? I put a big *** camshaft in my 440/505 that did away with any and all vacuum pressure (conscious decision perhaps impacted by a few Coors delights).
 
I agree with @Big_John in that I tried their vacuum pump (not an entire conversion kit) and it was inconsistent at best. I could see it being useful if you were drag racing, but not cruising. I ultimately scrapped it in favor of hydroboost. The reason why? I put a big *** camshaft in my 440/505 that did away with any and all vacuum pressure (conscious decision perhaps impacted by a few Coors delights).
I like the idea of hydro boost, would you be able to explain how you did it with a few pictures? Maybe a thread on the subject.
 
The Leeds system MIGHT work well for some other brands of cars, but the track record for C-body Chrysler vehicles is poor at best. As documented in many threads in here over the past years.

ONE thing to consider is that if a big box national hot rod parts place sells it, does NOT mean its a good system with good parts in it. Looks can be deceiving, too. If the price is very reasonable, then consider that they are making money and then move backwards to suspect what they are paying for it. In another forum, there is a thread about an HEI distributor that is sold with all sorts of colorful language ("custom-curved", "all new items", etc.) at a reman price, which failed right out of the box, as other name brands lasted decades. Even after putting new electronics in it, it was of poor durability and performance. FWIW

Is the master cyl in the kit a real C-body Chrysler power disc brake master cyl? Perhaps what is on the car can be replaced with the genuine item?

Personally, I might "over-shop" some things until the real urgency to spend that money is past. Realizing that what is on the car OEM is really pretty good stuff and went through a rigorous testing activities before it was put into production. Of course, as time has progressed, newer and better things have evolved, which can produce upgrade possibilities. I also understand that as newer/younger people come into the hobby, they have grown up with disc brakes and consider anything else as inferior when it really might not be, just what "they know" or know how to work on. I might know some things about EFI, but I also know carburetors and points ignitions, which is what I grew up with. I DO personally like electronic ignition systems, IF the electronics are good and meet OEM durability levels, or higher. BTAIM

HydroBoost can be a great system. My experience with it on 1980s GM diesel pickups proved that it had a more solid pedal feel than the vac boosters did with power disc brakes. The longer-term issue was booster leaks in the floorboards. Getting the hoses loomed in a better manner would help clean up the underhood area, I suspect. Of course, the power steering pump needs to be large enough to handle steering and stopping at the same time, but GM and Ford OEM items are available for that.

A cleaner alternative would be the GM PowerBoost booster, which used an electric motor to pressurize a "pressure ball", but it was troublesome and the PBoost system was usually replaced by the HBoost system.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
I like the idea of hydro boost, would you be able to explain how you did it with a few pictures? Maybe a thread on the subject.

Sorry @Welder guy but I'm too lazy to do an entire thread on it, but the gist of it is I originally converted my front to disc brakes (scarebird kit - and yes, there are some who like it, some who don't...such is life) to go along with the stock 383 and stock power brake booster, which worked perfectly fine. As I mentioned before though, once I dropped in that 505 with no vacuum, I had to find a braking solution. So I started with the Leeds Vacuum Pump and a vaccum cannister, which worked intermittently. I ditched that, and purchased a hydroboost kit from evilbay:
1715811405027.png


I had to play with the pushrod to get it to mate with my stock power brake pedal, but after a lot of cursing at my stubby sausage fingers, lower back pain, and several whiskeys, I got it in there. I then purchased this kit from CCP:

1715811560804.png


And the hook up to my TRW stock power steering pump was simple. I also bought a small filter for my power steering pump just in case, but overall this is the best braking I've had since I've owned the car. From stock drum power brakes, to disc/drum power brakes, to vacuum pump with a vacuum cannister, to hydroboost. There is another route that I've heard others discuss by swapping out late 70's Cordoba spindles and parts, but the 63/64 Chryslers were...unique...but hey that's why I love 'em.
 
AND, the hydroboost system would work on any prior Chrysler product, I suspect. Main issue would be underhood space relating to spark plug changes, but with Double-platinum or Iridium plugs, not so much after the initial spark plug install.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with this brake conversion kit?

I had a disc brake conversion done but am having issues with a hard pedal.

I verified good vacuum and booster is holding vacuum. If I unbolt the master cylinder from the booster, I get full pedal travel but not when the Master Cylinder is connected.

I did adjust the pushrod length using an H booster rod tool.

All brake lines are new.

Brakes work somewhat but feel like the pedal just isn't engaging the brake fully.

I appreciate any feedback.
If you want disc brakes check the ECI kit EC-769CK - I'm currently going back and forth between them to get a kit for my own RHD car, but saylor seems to have had a good time with them, with a bit of modification here and there (the rubber lines provided were apparently too short). Others have had good experiences with the scarebird kit too but I don't know if that one is still around.
right now, I have no add-on metering valve or proportioning valve. Everything from the spindle up is bone stock. I mean I changed the MC, but the lines and hookups and the stock splitter T and warning combination valve thing under the MC mounted on the frame. to be clear for the reader, the add-on metering and proportioning valves are 2 different things. A proportioning valve is a cut off valve, and a metering valve is a hold off valve. way different things. I was advised to try the brakes first without adding either item, then adjust as needed.
If you're a purist the ECI kit might not be for you, as it uses chevy calipers, but if serviceability and parts availability is a concern then this may be right up your alley. The ECI kit also apparently fits under the stock 14" wheels.
 
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