Master cylinder thoughts...

Glider

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I'm planning to replace the master cylinder on my -56 NewYorker & I wonder if anyone knows if there's some newer MoPar model that fits? I have one from a Volare laying somewhere, if that's an option I'll dig it out...
But what about the drum vs disks in this case? I know that most people are quite fanatic about diskbrakes but I'm not gonna drive downhill in mountains so I'm keeping the drums as long as they work, but what I mean is if a dual m.s. would work on drums? As I've noticed disks meed more power; try putting disks on a drum brake car that didn't have & then don't have power brakes & see how that works; you'll need stronger legs then...
 
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The earliest dual master cyl for drum brakes was the 1967 models. The earliest dual master cyl for power disc brake models was also 1967. Key things to seek to match are piston diameters in the master cyl so you don't loose any "hydraulic mechanical advantage" with any swap. Seems like one system uses residual pressure valves and the other one does not? Valves which are integral to the master cyl itself, but are available separately from other sources. Other thing would be the size of the line fittings on the cyl itself. Of course, the mounting flange is another issue to either match or modified close match, too.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Several years ago a friend of mine installed a disc/drum master on his 46 Chevy pick up. He kept the drums all around, albeit completely refurbed. He had to panic stop and blew the front wheels cylinders apart. Nearly totaled the truck. Try to find a drum master cylinder. Just a thought.
 
Thanx for good answers! -67 drum cylinder it'll be & fullsize I reckon since it's pretty big drums.
 
You will need to find a dual distribution block to split the front and rear brakes. Disc brake master cylinders have a larger front brake fitting. You will need to fabricate the tubing to the split brake distribution block. www.inlinetube.com has the distribution block. Be sure to use a double flaring tool to fabricate the new brake lines. The bore sizes on manual and power brake systems are often different so find a dual master cylinder that has the same bore size. You '56 Chrysler should be a 4 bolt single pot master cylinder, it has the same bolt pattern as the '67 C-Body master cylinder. You will also need to reset the travel rod to match the later master cylinder if this is a power brake application.

Dave
 
You don't even need the distribution block. It is just a switch to light a light on the dash to tell you, you have a brake problem, which you probably already know at that point. Made the Fed's happy.
Just run the front reservoir to rear brakes and rear to front brakes. If you have the bellow booster on top of the master you may want to use a low bolt on lid one for a late 60s drum/drum car.
You can use a disk/drum master with no bad effects, but there are plenty of drum/drum so your choice.
 
Most folks here will disagree with my opinion about this subject. Your 56 Chrysler has survived over 70 years with a single pot master cylinder. Unless your planning some sort of severe driving conditions that will put a strain on your brakes, stay with the OEM cylinder. Refurbish it to as new specs and. (if all else is in good condition, ie rusty lines, flex hoses etc), you should be good to go. I will be retaining the original single pot M/C on my 61 Fury. Drive like it's 1956. Don't roll up on traffic or objects and come down hard on your brakes, like you can do in a modern vehicle. Common sense prevails.
 
You don't even need the distribution block. It is just a switch to light a light on the dash to tell you, you have a brake problem, which you probably already know at that point. Made the Fed's happy.
Just run the front reservoir to rear brakes and rear to front brakes. If you have the bellow booster on top of the master you may want to use a low bolt on lid one for a late 60s drum/drum car.
You can use a disk/drum master with no bad effects, but there are plenty of drum/drum so your choice.

The reason for adding the distribution block is to be able to wire and idiot light for brake warning light. If the Chrysler has an E-Brake light, the brake warning can be wired to that light by splicing into that circuit. This gives advance warning of a pressure differential between the front and rear brakes before the operator hits something. A dual brake system has minimal braking with one side or the other inoperative.

Dave
 
Well BlueFury, I did all new cylinders, pipes & hoses on my -55 Studebaker & it's drums without power asistance; it was all new stuff & I can still brake hard, I do it sometimes just for the feel of it so you aint wrong about that...

& now it's all new stuff on the Chrysler too but there's only one company here that sell original parts for these old MoPars & they are expensive & then I though "why not just go for a newer dual master cylinder while I'm at it?".


z36.JPG
 
Well BlueFury, I did all new cylinders, pipes & hoses on my -55 Studebaker & it's drums without power asistance; it was all new stuff & I can still brake hard, I do it sometimes just for the feel of it so you aint wrong about that...

& now it's all new stuff on the Chrysler too but there's only one company here that sell original parts for these old MoPars & they are expensive & then I though "why not just go for a newer dual master cylinder while I'm at it?".


View attachment 509958


I don't advocate NOT converting to a dual reservoir master cylinder. I just don't believe is necessary in most cases.
Nice Studebaker. I've had several my self, Love them.
 
Ah, no I didn't think so either, I always write slower than I think & then it becomes a bit strange sometimes... ;)
 
I'm located in Sweden... The thing about ordering from US is the tax & stuff + the looong time it takes these days due to people being sick & home cuz of corona.
 
I'm located in Sweden... The thing about ordering from US is the tax & stuff + the looong time it takes these days due to people being sick & home cuz of corona.

I understand. Rockauto ships quickly. Time and taxes can't be avoided.... LOL.
Like the adage goes.... You wanna play..... ya gotta pay.
 
Oh I know, I've got good pals in the US & so on but... I reckon shipping in US is quite a bit quicker too since it aint got much to do with overseas travel.
 
Generally rockauto delivers to my place in the Netherlands in about a week, even with the whole covid situation, FYI

I've found no cheaper way to get basic spares for my Imperial
 
"I've found no cheaper way to get basic spares for my Imperial"

:lol:

No but in all seriousness, Rockauto must have a great deal with fedex since shipping is most of the times less than half of say Summit/Jegs/etcetera. Also, you can pre pay import taxes which is always cheaper than after delivery.

I can HIGHLY recommend rockauto

Besides, getting parts from a company in the Netherlands (or Sweden in your case) is very expensive, because that's how those companies make money right? Best to take out the middle man and order the parts yourself.
 
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