I think, if you are happy with it, then be happy. It looks good to me.I am currently in the process of installing a new rim-blow switch. Someone from my club volunteered to repair the cracks in the wheel, which I was worried about. The repair is great, but now the steering wheel is black, I kind of like it, what do you guys think? If you think it should be brown, what is the best way to color it brown again before I install the switch?
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Thank you for your thoughts, I agree with you there.I think, if you are happy with it, then be happy. It looks good to me.
I have little things on my C-Body car that are not “factory original”. Things get old, they wear out. You do the best you can to get what looks best and is affordable. These cars are not going to be six-figures Challenger/Cuda $$$,$$$.$$
Gloss black looks classy!
I usually worry more about how well a refinish or repair or replacement will last. “Will it be durable?” Of course I try to get a match if I can, but if it looks good and is durable I am ok.
There is an interior paint that you can buy from SEM. I am not sure how durable it will be in a high wear location like a steering wheel. Usually it is for soft plastics.
Do you know SEM brand?
You are the customer.
Thank you!Nice wagon!
How close to Trondheim do you live?
My ancestors came from there, as well as near Stavanger and just east of Oslo.
My relatives from Stavanger were from Osthusvik. I have been there. They had a boat, called ‘Beiderbecke af Sand’ and is on this page:Thank you!
From me, Trondheim, is about a 12 hour drive (mostly through mountain passes).
Though Stavanger is just 2 hours from me, I even went to high school there!
Hi, I just wanted to let you know that it's a very common problem on Chrysler engines to hear a noise that sounds like a valvetrain noise. In reality it is usually an exhaust leak where the manifold contacts the head. These engines didn't come from the factory with gaskets, they have a machined finish that seals against the head. But over the years, the bolts loosen or other reasons occur and a leak develops that sounds identical to a valve clicking. I would take off the manifolds first and look for a leak and reseal them before going further with valve issues. Hope this helps!So last spring i started working on her again, took her to a garage for the bi-annual inspection, where they discovered most of the front suspension was shot, the horn was nonfunctional in every way, doors where hard to open etc. they also replaced the battery, flushed the trans and welded the parking brake pedal back in place.
Safe to say she did not pass, so I turned in the plates until she has received an overhaul.
I will spare you the exhaustive list of repairs needed, but the major things for getting her roadworthy:
-Fix the tick in the engine at idle, seems to be a valve.
-Replace horns and rim-blow switch
-rebuild front suspension
-Replace front bumper
-Replace bulbs speedometer
-Repair Towing electrics
Hopefully she will be back on the road this summer!