Need some advice/Opinion

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

So, I'm not a guy with a lot of money, but I'd like to do my car right, What I have been thinking when it comes to my engine is that the rest of the driveline I have already rebuilt or can easily rebuild (fairly inexpensively at that), so what I'm thinking is to at this point get the car solid, get it back together, get it to stop, get it licensed and on the road and then when I get ready to take it for paint, pull the engine and properly spend the time and rebuild it.

I was thinking for now to just tune it up the best I can, so I can atleast get a bit of driving in before I start into that horror show.

I'd like your opinions.

I'm mostly worried about what I will find when I open up that 318, I fear lots of Out of Round parts.

Nick

 

[detmatt]

Do a compression and leak down test to determine the general condition of the engine and base your decision around that.

 

[Newp]

My opinion is, you can purchase an engine from a professional builder much cheaper than trying to do it ''totally'' correctly yourself.

 

[bluefury361]

I'm mostly worried about what I will find when I open up that 318, I fear lots of Out of Round parts.


1st question..... Is the 318 you have the original engine for your car...?
If so then a rebuild/remanufacture would be the way to go.
Expect at least a clean up bore, (.030/.040) on the cylinders, new pistons-rings. Hot tank the engine, (a must do). If the crank mic's good then only a polish will be needed. Recon the rods. New, good quality, parts will be oil pump, timing set, cam bearings, core plugs rod & main bearings. Cam & lifters may be reused but new would be best. Plus a gasket set.
Recon cyl heads with hardened valve seats.
Ball park figure is around $1500.00 for parts and machineing with you doing the assembly.

If not the original engine you may concider upgradeing to a crate 360 or a big block.

 

[fc7_plumcrazy]

I would do a compression and leakdown teat like Matt wrote.
Even if the results are not to good: Start driving it so you can enjoy the car.

Even if the current engine is matching: I would rather buy another good running SB instead of completely overhauling a 318. If you are on a budget try to find a used 360 or check FABO i.e. if one of the guys has a decent engine for sale

 

[70NPORT]

Definitely check the health of the 318.....compression test is best way to go for that. If the 318 is toast, I'd be thinking about upgrading to 360 power....used or new, depending on what your budget allows.

 

[1978 NYB]

I would go with a crate 360 regardless. That way you have a warranty if the engine goes south. It will be costly to rebuild the 318 even if you don't find anything wrong inside. Why not buy something with a warranty? Smart bet and a little more performance.

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

As far as crate engine or engine builder, last guy I talked to about building it was $3800, 360 Crate motor $3682

So, I'm not a guy with a lot of money, but I'd like to do my car right
Nick

Building my number's matching 318, Around $1500, mind you I won't be using basically any of the original of the Top 5

Already have a Summit True Roller Timing set, and Fel-Pro Full gasket set.

I will not be using any parts of crappy quality, I'm not that kinda guy, I'm just not sure If I should get it running and driving now and leave the engine till a little later.

Nick

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

Just want to know if it seems reasonable to drive it for a while if it checks out okay before I do the entire motor.

Nick

 

[monaco75]

I think I would do the engine now before the car is all back together. That way later down the road you wont have to worry about scratching paint, and any headaches like that. Plus the car is all apart right now anyway.. Why do something twice? Easier to get at with stuff out of the way now.
Just my $.2

 

[Newp]

100% reasonable. If all checks out well there's no reason for a rebuild anyway. I would clean it up, change some gaskets, paint it and let her rip.

 

[polara71]

I am in the minority, I'd drive it as long as It'll stay running

 

[commando1]

I think one should not do anything until a catastrophic failure happens. Timing chain, worn valve seals, rear main bearing, etc.
Then, just don't make the repair. Go for a whole engine and set the timer back to zero for everything all at once.

< Sent from my tablet >

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

I think I'll just clean and paint, tune it up, and drive it for a while till it gets worse, the valve seats for the #7 Exhaust and intake are shot, If we make it till the fall I'm happy, I can tear it apart for the winter

 

[detmatt]

Grasp the opportunity to learn some analytical skills and build yourself a leak down tester, don't buy one, build one. Everything you need will be at the Home Depot accept the proper size numbered drill bit, you'll have to find that elsewhere. It will be cheap and you'll learn something. Performing the leak down test is also an education in itself of the workings of the internal cumbustion engine. You'd be cheating yourself if you didn't.
Between YouTube and google you're covered from the point of almost complete ignorance...not that you're ignorant, you've already proven otherwise.

 

[1966newport]

lots of luck with the warranty on a mopar crate motor

 

[rexus31]

I would definitely rebuild the matching number motor. Internal components have zero to do with authenticating your car as having the drivetrain it went down the assembly line with. If I were building the car, the motor would already be done and bagged in a corner of my garage on a stand. I'm not a fan of doing things twice, especially pulling a drivetrain.

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

Matt, I already have a Leak down tester, Otherwise I'd make one, and yes I know a thing or two about the interworkings of a Internal Combustion 4 stroke engine.

Rexus, If I had the cash, it'd be done.

Nick

 

[detmatt]

Just making sure as its the first step to take when trying to decide what to do with an engine in unknown condition...and as it turns out it won't cost you a dime since you already have a l.d.tester.

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

Just making sure as its the first step to take when trying to decide what to do with an engine in unknown condition...and as it turns out it won't cost you a dime since you already have a l.d.tester.

Yessir, have the LD tester and a Compression tester, both like my Torque wrenches paid for themselves soon after purchase.

Nick