Newbie Fury Questions

The 14 inch Wheel covers are correct.
However, will look much better with 15 inch Magnum 500's especially with the color combo.
The body side vinyl molding can be removed safely without damaging the paint.
It really is ugly on that car as it detracts from the body lines.

Be careful with the side molding. Some were just press on, but others had a removeable plastic strip.

The wheels and the strips would be at the bottom of my list. I agree that 15” may look good, but these 14” are really nice AND original.

In the same vein, if the add-on moldings have been on for the life of the car, I’m not sure that I would remove them. Ar least not at first. And I’d make triple-sure that there is not going to be some shadow or slight paint discoloration after removing them so many years later?
 
Nice looking Fury. Check under the vinyl top for rust or bubbles, especially around the rear glass.
 
Agree with not removing the side trim. It looks OK, plus removal could expose holes and detract from appearance.
Great find!
 
@ayilar
Thanks for the endorsement! And the homework assignment. :poke: :)

@Sherwood - While others surely have me beat for years of experience, I've owned my avatar car for 25 years, a not-published-here 65 SF for 30 years, as well as several others that are long gone. I was learning about Furys before the internet existed and did my first disc brake swap in 1993 or so, by looking at Napa suspension catalogs to figure out what would fit. I also know enough to realize I don't know it all. With that said...

Lots of folks have covered lots of good things already.

#1 If you have some old car experience, there isn't really much on a 67 Fury that is 'secret' regarding an inspection, and many repair parts can still be bought new, some can't, but for those we have work-arounds.
#2 If not experienced, take a car-savvy friend. Even if you are - take a friend. A 2nd set of eyes can help if you get smitten and overlook faults.
#3 Wear 'dirty' clothes and take rags/gloves, and slide underneath to check for rust. Trunk floor, bottoms of quarterpanels, floorpans, framerails. Framerail rust is generally confined to the horizontal sections of the frame (the parts you can see). Meaning - I've never seen a C-body with good horizontal sections that was then surprise-rusted above the rear axle, or up near the front suspension. Same thing with sheetmetal - you won't find good floorpans but with a rusty driveshaft tunnel.


I'm a bigger fan of the 68 than the 67 - I like the grille better on the 68.
BUT - From what I see in that one pic, I would like this prospect car enough to consider buying if it checked out (meaning, you have found an eye-pleasing example)

Like most Mopar cars from the 60s, most of the aluminum trim, grilles, bumpers, taillight lenses, and 1/2 of the sheetmetal is specific to that car, and that year. Some sheetmetal parts can interchange, but usually only for 2 years at most. If this car is complete and in GC that's all that matters.

Being a Sport Fury brings bucket seats, possibly console, and the H-code 383-4 barrel is a nice upgrade over the G-code 383-2 barrel. It is common for folks to upgrade and call it a 4-barrel car, so check the VIN - 5th digit is the engine. In 67 the H-code got better exhaust manifolds than prior-year 4-barrel engines, they curve upward a bit, while the standard ones run parallel to teh valve covers.

An H-code 383 doesn't make this car rare or super-special, but it is the 2nd most powerful (other than the rare 440) and it will make for a well-balanced car that will be fun to drive. You won't win races with it, but anybody that rides in it with you will recognize it's got some bravado.

Check the firewall for rust, from near the heater hoses, across to the wiper motor, and master cylinder. Look for pinholes. These cars can get leaves and pine needles down in the cowl, thru the vents at the windshield base, and the debris can hold moisture. This car looks well-loved, but check it anyway. There could be issues on the dashboard-side of the cowl (harder to inspect) but if the firewall is OK the interior side likely is also.

This car has the 14" 'mag' wheelcovers, so it has drum brakes (unless someone converted to SSBC brakes). That means you've dodged the 66-68 Budd disc brakes, which are pricey to repair. Flipside - you may want to convert this to discs at some point, and that can be a $1000+ proposition depending on which parts you elect to use. (but it's a fabulous upgrade for safety)

Red circle - check here for rust, and also between the trim and back glass. These would be the first spots for rust to appear. Look for any bumps under the vinyl. In my experience, this particular roofline (which it shares with the 66 300) isn't as bad for rust as some of the other C-body models.
Other red circle - someone else mentioned it - this area needs inspection.
Blue circle - might be reflections, might be peeling clearcoat if it had been repainted that way. You'll know it when you see it.
Green - this looks very much like someone wiped it dusty. Whole car looks dusty. No big deal there, though.

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As I re-read some things:

I see you've already verified the VIN as H-code.

For your question on a price-point, here's my opinion based on following presumptions:
Body straightness is overall similar to what we see here, no dents larger than your hand or that would require paint work.
Paint can be washed/polished to be a 6-7 on a 10 scale (with 10 being as new, NOT comparing to a $7500 base/clear job)
Interior being in usable condition, maybe with 1-2 split seams at most, and decent doorpanels. Nothing butchered in the dash.
Car should run/drive as-is and be capable to make a 25-50 mile drive with no known problems. (not to say it would be a good idea, but that it would have a good chance of success)
Car could need some maintenance work - but not to have had zero repairs in the last 10 years.

For all that, I'd say $7000-9000. (some folks will probably say it should be higher)
Getting past $10k on a 65-68 Fury, IMO, requires the car to be in notably well-groomed condition. This car may have that, but I cannot determine from the 1 pic.
And I am assuming if it's been sitting it could easily need $1500 worth of re-awakening repairs like fluid changes, wheel-bearing greasing, brake hoses, belts, alternator, carb rebuild, etc (tires alone will be ~$500).

And the final thing:
A car is either a Fury III, or a Sport Fury, but not a Fury III Sport, nor Sport Fury III, not even Sports Fury. Do that and we must pounce on you! :poke:
 
Agree with not removing the side trim. It looks OK, plus removal could expose holes and detract from appearance.
Great find!
The easiest way out might be to match the insert and the base channel and then replace only the rear quarter panel sections with longer ones. Look inside the trunk to seek if they are riveted on, too. Never did know of them being "screwed on", from what I saw down here. BTAIM

ALSO peruse www.hamtramck-historical.com in the "Library" section, where the various order and trim guides are. LOTS of questions can be answered there!

IF you feel or see "crunchy" in the vinyl roof sections near the bottom of the rear window, that's rust you're feeling hiding under there. NOT unusual, but it does not go away by itself. Which also means a new vinyl roof and some metal repairs to make things right again. Just a part of the deal with a vinyl roof, unfortunately, as good as they do look.

DO carefully look under the trunk mat for rust in there, too. IF it might be a hard vinyl mat that is brittle, forget this part until you might own it, though. No sense in tearing up the current ownher's trunk mat. But if it is the flexible vinyl item, you might get a quick look.

DO plan on replacing ALL of the rubber fuel line sections, all the way back to the fuel tank. Probably a foot or so, total, in length, but in 3 sections between the tank and fuel pump. A maintenance situation, anyway.

Other than "magnets" you can slowly strool down the sides of the car and tap the metal with your index finger's folded joint. Nothing loud, but just enough you can hear the change of sound between normal metal and "bondo-d" metal". Also, lean down a bit and sight down the sides of the car, looking for any waviness and such, too. You can practice these things with other cars or cars on a used car lot, for example, when the lot is closed.

A great looking color combination, for sure. Just be reasonable and rational about how much of the work you can do youself and what others will need to do, fwiw.

Happy Shopping!
CBODY67
 
And the final thing:
A car is either a Fury III, or a Sport Fury, but not a Fury III Sport, nor Sport Fury III, not even Sports Fury. Do that and we must pounce on you! :poke:

Thank you so much for putting so much time into your response and guidance! It's an "estate sale" so the seller has been less than helpful with any information and when it came time to make an appointment to see the car, I got crickets back so we'll see. I still haven't even seen it in person yet.
And I apologize for such a newbie mistake of calling it a Fury III Sport. I was going off the truck lid saying Sport Fury and side badging looking (from what I can see) like the III badge

Screenshot 2022-08-16 121656.jpg


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It looks like a pretty nice car. Everyone here is giving good advice. I like the "look for bubbles under the vinyl top". I was going to say that. Also get on the ground and check for rot in the floors, trunk, rotted brake and fuel lines. Also check rot at the suspension like leaf spring mounts, A-arms, torsion bars. I'm in the northeast salt belt so this is common for us.
 
Going to look at a 1967 Fury III Sport and I'm wondering problem areas to look at as a newbie. Possibly a one owner low mileage car that's been sitting but it looks clean. Vin decoder shows 383 4 barrel. TIA

View attachment 550924
If it's a Cali car, I doubt there'll be much rust, but yeah, trim pieces are tough to find. But the Fall Fling is coming up on Oct 23 which is a wonderful gathering of just us Mopar fanatics. Great show and lots of parts in the swap meet section.
 
I was going off the truck lid saying Sport Fury and side badging looking (from what I can see) like the III badge
The front fender has the red white and blue bars going vertically, while almost every other Sport Fury has those mounted horizontally. I learned recently that the vertical bars on the 67 might have contributed to the confusion, of people thinking that it stood for III. Who knows???

That car looks like it was well cared for and well loved. Front seats have been recovered, you can see the color mismatch between the seats and the fold down buddy seat. For that year and color, reproduction seat covers might be available from Legendary, but unless you do front and rear you'll have yet another mismatch.

With the vague description, lack of engine photos, and an estate sale - it may have been sitting a while and may need some money to reawaken it. Engine condition is not mentioned, and that could be pricey if it needs rebuilt.

The price is much lower than I expected, which could be due to:
Seller is not greedy/ not versed that estate cars are always worth huge money no matter what,
Seller does not realize a Sport and an H code 383 actually should demand a higher price,
Seller is very knowledgeable and savvy, and knows how much money it needs to be drivable again, and is wanting to dump it to a sucker (hence the vague description and towtruck reference).

It looks like a really good prospect, looks like a decent car, and price is reasonable, if you can do all of the reawakening yourself.
If you cannot, and need to farm it out, this car could end up being a money pit real quick.
 
The front fender has the red white and blue bars going vertically, while almost every other Sport Fury has those mounted horizontally. I learned recently that the vertical bars on the 67 might have contributed to the confusion, of people thinking that it stood for III. Who knows???

That car looks like it was well cared for and well loved. Front seats have been recovered, you can see the color mismatch between the seats and the fold down buddy seat. For that year and color, reproduction seat covers might be available from Legendary, but unless you do front and rear you'll have yet another mismatch.

With the vague description, lack of engine photos, and an estate sale - it may have been sitting a while and may need some money to reawaken it. Engine condition is not mentioned, and that could be pricey if it needs rebuilt.

The price is much lower than I expected, which could be due to:
Seller is not greedy/ not versed that estate cars are always worth huge money no matter what,
Seller does not realize a Sport and an H code 383 actually should demand a higher price,
Seller is very knowledgeable and savvy, and knows how much money it needs to be drivable again, and is wanting to dump it to a sucker (hence the vague description and towtruck reference).

It looks like a really good prospect, looks like a decent car, and price is reasonable, if you can do all of the reawakening yourself.
If you cannot, and need to farm it out, this car could end up being a money pit real quick.
Once again, I cannot thank you and everyone on here for your help and knowledge!!!!
I believe you're correct on you price justifications. The real problem is that even though I may be mechanical, I'm no mechanic and I really don't have the ability to pull a motor and rebuild it myself. If it was a matter of draining fuel tank, battery, tune up... that's one thing but this one might be too big of a project that I can take on. :(
 
Hey Sherwood,

Don't be afraid to take on repairs on a car like this. These cars are very straightforward, and your skills will improve. The Service Manual will be an invaluable tool, and Youtube will be a big help as well. And, as I have done a hundred times, just ask the guys here on this forum and you'll be in good hands. The 383 is basically bulletproof, so if it turns over, it'll run.

ALSO, for any hard-to-find parts (trim, badges etc. etc.), AMS Obsolete in Fairmount, GA has a staggering amount of parts, both used and NOS for ALL Mopars. Now, they aren't particularly cheap, but if you absolutely need it, they probably have it. And, I am often pleasantly surprised to find parts for my C-bodies and my 63 Riviera when I search EBAY.

VALUE. If the CL ad is correct at $6375, I sure can't see any reason why the car isn't worth that price.
 
@Sherwood
Did you look at the car, or get cold feet due to my mention that engine rebuild could be pricey if it needed it?
Did you contact the seller?
Do you have a mechanic friend that can check it out for you?




Coincidentally, here's a very similar car, and with the common 2-to-4-barrel upgrade. Eagle-eye viewers will note this one is using a B-body manifold on the driverside.
NOT MINE - 1967 Plymouth Sport Fury III 383V8 With AC $19.9k on AutaBuy
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Going to look at a 1967 Fury III Sport and I'm wondering problem areas to look at as a newbie. Possibly a one owner low mileage car that's been sitting but it looks clean. Vin decoder shows 383 4 barrel. TIA

View attachment 550924
nice looking car
now buy a factory parts book & get a copy of the factory service manual it will save u a ton of time & $$
 
@Sherwood
Did you look at the car, or get cold feet due to my mention that engine rebuild could be pricey if it needed it?
Did you contact the seller?
Do you have a mechanic friend that can check it out for you?




Coincidentally, here's a very similar car, and with the common 2-to-4-barrel upgrade. Eagle-eye viewers will note this one is using a B-body manifold on the driverside.
NOT MINE - 1967 Plymouth Sport Fury III 383V8 With AC $19.9k on AutaBuy
View attachment 554351
I've tried multiple times to set up an appointment to see the car and the seller has been horrible with responding. I'd like to see the car to get a gauge on the condition but really hard to do when the seller doesn't even respond (or responds a week later).
Thats a good looking Fury with wheels and trim removed!
 
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