For Sale Nice 1970 300 Vert for Sale

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But everything is relative! And I would rather do a 1968-70 Autotemp I system than a formal. That looks bad!
In all honesty, taking it apart is the easy part. Trying to put all 1,434,651 pieces back together in the right order and making it all fit together again is the problem.
The 1,000 conectors don't help, even when labeled ("OK, I have the #54 Female. WhereTF is #54 Male? Ah, there it is but it doesn't reach..." :BangHead: ).
The #1 problem is the HUuuge ductwork makes it almost impossible).

I continually wondered HowTH those poor assembly line workers could install dashes 8-10 hrs. a day, day after day. :(
 
In all honesty, taking it apart is the easy part. Trying to put all 1,434,651 pieces back together in the right order and making it all fit together again is the problem.
The 1,000 conectors don't help, even when labeled ("OK, I have the #54 Female. WhereTF is #54 Male? Ah, there it is but it doesn't reach..." :BangHead: ).
The #1 problem is the HUuuge ductwork makes it almost impossible).

I continually wondered HowTH those poor assembly line workers could install dashes 8-10 hrs. a day, day after day. :(

When I was working for Chrysler back then, I paid a visit to the a/c lab guys. I asked them why they couldn't build an a/c system with the power, smoothness and simplicity of the GM systems. And most of all why they were still using the stupid RV2 compressor. Their only response was that the RV2 had the capacity for dual air, and shrugged their shoulders regarding all the rest. They struck me as total nerds with no awareness of reality or obviously assembly line woes or reliability/durability.

And the guys in the instrument panel lab were virtually all technicians that put those panels together ONLY FROM THE BACKSIDE! I never saw any engineers around - and was amazed. They never really bothered too much with accessibility from the inside of the car. When I started asking questions, they didn't like them. They told me to go back to California (kind of like the attitudes I get here a lot of the time actually). They really just didn't care (thanks to the bigger than their britches UAW). There were a lot of cracks forming in management back in the 1973 and up period especially, and it wasn't looking good. And it wasn't.
 
We really don't know what it went for though................
True, but as he wrote, "I'd like to get close to 10", I figured that he meant on the lower side, and as the auction was pulled sortly after, I assumed that.. but your'e right, we don't know.. On the other hand, I 'm pretty sure it would have gone above 10k, if he had let the listing run it's course..

EDIT: Read the rest of the thread, and it turns ouit, that we DO know..
wow man.. 9000 :-O
 
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...who has changed dash voltage limiter/regulator recently.......

To quote Marlin Brando..."the horror".....
 
You are right Carsten, why buy a ragtop, and then run the air?
Well, since the cat is out of the bag, I bought the car. It does need some maintenance, but it is what it is. I bought it because it was not red,( i've had 2 of those) and it's a TNT car. AC is not an issue at this point. It will be a "winter driver" ( nods to Carsten). I also bought a 26k mile 1968 town and country wagon from the same seller. It belonged to the mother of the doctor who owned this 300. And it was a one owner vehicle also.
just in.jpg
 
well done Tim !

Enjoy it and keep on driving.
That is what they have been made for

Carsten
 
You should just get a hardtop.

If I lived in Florida Tim, the a/c would be working!!!!

Is your previous license plate real? Didn't think California would let that one get by. Maybe in Florida that might work though. Good thing you have the bumper guard package back there! :poke:
 
If I lived in Florida Tim, the a/c would be working!!!!

Is your previous license plate real? Didn't think California would let that one get by. Maybe in Florida that might work though. Good thing you have the bumper guard package back there! :poke:
No, I just photo edited out the first 3 numbers and one letter. Just messing around. A/c isn't a priority at this point. Right now, just wanting to make it through this Hurricane. Winds getting up here now. Just came in from digging trenches to drain the yard. Once my 73 T and c is gone ( we spoke of this in an email ), I think I am going to be buying a whole house generator and some shutters. So the a/c will have to wait. In about 3 hours they say my area will be getting 80mph gusts. Uggh! One of the down sides of Florida living.
 
No, I just photo edited out the first 3 numbers and one letter. Just messing around. A/c isn't a priority at this point. Right now, just wanting to make it through this Hurricane. Winds getting up here now. Just came in from digging trenches to drain the yard. Once my 73 T and c is gone ( we spoke of this in an email ), I think I am going to be buying a whole house generator and some shutters. So the a/c will have to wait. In about 3 hours they say my area will be getting 80mph gusts. Uggh! One of the down sides of Florida living.

My confidence in California state government is now reassured - I thought that plate had to be photoshopped.

Take care of yourself and your new acquisition. No flooding allowed.
 
My confidence in California state government is now reassured - I thought that plate had to be photoshopped.

Take care of yourself and your new acquisition. No flooding allowed.
Steve, My question for you is this
Is the 1970 Auto Temp the same as the 1968 version. I just purchased a series of "booklets" for 1968 Master Technician Service Conference. Two of these booklets deal with 1) Auto-Temp Understanding how it works, and 2) Auto-Temp Diagnosis. I just wonder if these will provide enough information to attempt to look at the 300. It did provide enough information for me to wonder why engineers always want to over complicate things. I am also trying to formulate a work around without a complete system replacement, as you recommended.

I just got power and internet back within the last 4 hours. It sure is nice to stop sweating. Both "new"cars are safe in my building. The monaco safe in a customers garage, and the 73 t and c weathered the storm under the carport, none the worse for wear. Praise the Lord!!!
 
Steve, My question for you is this
Is the 1970 Auto Temp the same as the 1968 version. I just purchased a series of "booklets" for 1968 Master Technician Service Conference. Two of these booklets deal with 1) Auto-Temp Understanding how it works, and 2) Auto-Temp Diagnosis. I just wonder if these will provide enough information to attempt to look at the 300. It did provide enough information for me to wonder why engineers always want to over complicate things. I am also trying to formulate a work around without a complete system replacement, as you recommended.

I just got power and internet back within the last 4 hours. It sure is nice to stop sweating. Both "new"cars are safe in my building. The monaco safe in a customers garage, and the 73 t and c weathered the storm under the carport, none the worse for wear. Praise the Lord!!!

Glad you are back in business Tim. My house near Tampa is on higher ground and so it mainly sustained some wind damage to some fences. The power went out for days, but is now back on as well.

Yes, Tim, the auto temp 1 systems are essentially the same from 1968 - 1970, although there might have been some minor updates or improvements with each successive year of the same essential system. It seems the vacuum motor assembly in the right kick panel houses the problem components. When those seals age, they don't seal well, making the servo pretty much inoperable, which affects blend air door movements. Maybe cars subjected to lower temperatures and more humidity will have a better chance of lasting longer, but eventually they will fail too. I think a full conversion to a manual system from the same year car and model (in your case another 300) would be nice to have so you can make a complete changeover. But on the other hand, if don't want to do a major dissassembly of your instrument panel, then putting in manual controls for a standard system heater valve, compressor and the fan motor might be sufficient. But I haven't done one of those kinds of over rides yet myself and will probably opt for a full changeover, rolling down the instrument panel on its two pivots so I can access the whole wiring harness and replacement of the evaporator, heater box and wiring as necessary. I just need to do one of these to actually see how hard it is.
 
Steve,
I was not aware you had a place in Tampa. Glad to hear that it survived intact. Next time you are there, I can bring the 300 for your conversion practice. :lol:
 
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