Oil Pressure Gauge Install

[Gerald Morris]

Some devil's-advocating...

Plastic tubing can come in 2 versions - 'unknown' plastic, and a higher-capability, higher-quality nylon.
....

The other plastic is Abomo-Basico-Sino-polymerate. Cheap, bottom shelf stuff to be sure.

All teh horror stories you hear of an oil leak will blame the line, without a detailed determination of what truly might have caused it.

Having these polymers in proximity to anything hot does them in. In my case, it had slipped too close to the exhaust manifold, which, happily, annealed it shut.

For me, I want a 270° sweep on my oil and water, for better resolution on the numbers, and that's expensive in an electric gauge, 90° is most common.
I like mechanical gauges because I can watch my T-stat open/close several times before it settles to equilibrium operating temp.
And when I get closer to oilchange time, I'll see the slightest bit of needle-quiver in my oil pressure at idle. (I don't quite understand it, but have seen it happen enough times to recognize it) An oil change makes it go away.

I strongly suspect the needle quiver arises from the inevitable breakdown in oil viscosity and homogeneity after so much heating, pumping, impurities et al work to increase entropy within a MIXTURE masquerading as a SOLUTION. I suppose single viscosity synthetic esters might truly qualify as pure solvents, only degrading as the entropic processes aforementioned work, but all others are at best near homogeneous BLENDS, even if composed of pure synthetic esters. This state invites more rapid decay from Time t0. This remains the greatest cause for more frequent oil replacement with refined mineral oils versus synthetic oils.

To wit: the oil gets lumpy with age.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Good point, but not an issue with my install. I use this. Extremely rugged, the senders screw directly in just like the block port, no long piping to wiggle and shake. Bulletproof.

I would not recommend a contraption like this one.