Opening the box again - Correct brake shoe size

68NewportDDD

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Well Good morning C Body fans!

OK, so I did it again...I bought this '66 Fury VIP in Manassas a few months back:
NOT MINE - 1966 Plymouth Fury VIP 63,000 original miles $3,500

Turns out it's a GEM! It needed new wheel cylinders in the front passenger so I went ahead and replaced that. While bleeding the lines the seals on the driver side wheel cylinder gave up the ghost but I was already prepared to replace both sides along with the brake lines.

Now I am thinking I should probably go ahead and replace the shoes as well but all is not as simple as it seems. I came across this thread that pretty much sums up my confusion in a nutshell:

Brake shoe sizes

So I am thinking I should reach out to the OG's on the board and see what the major consensus is.

The Fury has 3" wide drum surface, 11" diameter drum (inside measurement), and the shoes currently on it are 2.75" wide. Alot of the car is original, 65k miles so I am guessing the brake components (hopefully not the shoes nor the brake fluid) are original or at least OEM.

From my initial research and shopping around I find that indeed there are about 316.84 different brake shoe sizes available but ONLY ONE that is right for this car. And since the wife has claimed this one as hers I am thinking that I should probably get it safer than I would if I were the one driving it.

So what do you think?? Any recommendations on shoe construction (bonded v. riveted?) Braking shoe material? Any particular supplier or manufacturer (MOBILEPARTS)

Any help, insight, criticism is most welcome!
 
Just happened to be here --- because I have to email someone from Austria ---
Thank you for the shout out --- Others will probably chime in that N.O.S. +++ Asbestos +++ is far and away the far and away best braking system known to mankind....
And this car did get the two different brake set ups:
11" x 3" Fronts with 11" x 2 1/2" Rears (and the drums are always 1/4" wider -- since the brake shoes don't go "lip - to - lip".... &
11" x 2 3/4" Fronts with 11" x 2" Rears --- which it appears your car has...

I have all of the above in N.O.S. +++ Asbestos +++ at this moment in time....

I am tieing up many loose ends from the just completed Spring Carlisle --- and will be on the phone all morning steady , hunting down 30 other items....

Call me this afternoon , Thanks, 516 - 485 - 1935 ....
Yours, Craig...
 
The shoes don’t go to the drum edges. If they did you wouldn’t like the operation. Snapping, Binding, hanging up, and burning up.
 
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do not buy nos shoes- do you want to stop or just pray?....
Call your local brake re manufacturer or call Rochester Clutch n Brake as he speaks mopar fluently. Carbon Metallic shoes is what you want. Btw the shoes need to arced to match your drums
Clutch Brake Friction Specialists - Rochester Clutch & Brake - Rochester Clutch + Brake Co
Compare to some folks on the board I am just a youngin' so I do not recall the worries caused by these drum brakes BUT I have heard plenty of horror stories from my elder generation who did grow up in the 60's. So I can relate to your statement: 'Do you want to really stop or just pray and hope?'

Thank you for your insight! :)
 
The shoes don’t go to the drum edges. If they did you wouldn’t like the operation. Snapping, Binding, hanging up, and burning up.
I did get that from the previous brake shoe size thread: There needs to be some space on the outer edges of the drum surface.

Thanks for posting up your advice. :-D
 
Just happened to be here --- because I have to email someone from Austria ---
Thank you for the shout out --- Others will probably chime in that N.O.S. +++ Asbestos +++ is far and away the far and away best braking system known to mankind....
And this car did get the two different brake set ups:
11" x 3" Fronts with 11" x 2 1/2" Rears (and the drums are always 1/4" wider -- since the brake shoes don't go "lip - to - lip".... &
11" x 2 3/4" Fronts with 11" x 2" Rears --- which it appears your car has...

I have all of the above in N.O.S. +++ Asbestos +++ at this moment in time....

I am tieing up many loose ends from the just completed Spring Carlisle --- and will be on the phone all morning steady , hunting down 30 other items....

Call me this afternoon , Thanks, 516 - 485 - 1935 ....
Yours, Craig...


Thanks Craig - I will holler at you shortly (translated - within the next week)
 
The California contingencies cry "mesothelioma" and put that new fangled $ 200 garbage on there -- and then A) can't stop nicely, and B) rip up the Brake Drums to smithereens....

N.O.S. +++ Asbestos +++ is the nicest, softest, smoooooothest braking system known to mankind...
Period... And can not be duplicated, though they have tried for 27 years....
 
ONE reason for "praying" back then was that there were no real federal quality standards for drum brake shoes. Some were very good, some mediocre, and some that were neither. The two "at least OEM" brands are still around, but I'm not sure of their products any more. They are probably good enough or at least as good as they used to be, but I do not know for sure. BTAIM

Factory Chrysler brake shoes were generally bonded, as GM usually used riveted-on linings.

Match the shoe width you have and go from there.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
There is no way a brake shoe of 1960-70's technology is going to out brake modern lining materials unless the brake shoes are yellow and say "Velvetouch". Recommending NOS over current technology is just bad advice. Get those nos riveted/bonded asbestos linings hot and let me know how well the stopping power is...

So Craig - you should be suggesting modern technology rather than selling old nos junk to unsuspecting uneducated boat owners
 
Maybe you should pay attention to the hundreds of people on this site, and the thousands of people on the various sites all over this world who are FAR MORE knowledgeable than you are, left coast....

Live in your own little bubble, boy, and don't forget another write in vote for Hillary in 2024.....

The industry has spent 27 years TRYING to find anything that will stop as well as +++ N.O.S. +++ Asbestos (outlawed because of Asbestos Laws)
And have not come up with anything yet... Don't worry, they are still TRYING.... Maybe we can have this conversation again in a decade or two....
 
Call Rochester Clutch and Brake Mr Know It All.
Talk the nice guy that owns the business & answers the phone. He is way smarter than all of us. Ask him!. LOL. Call him!
 
I know of them and DON'T deal with them because I have more knowledge in my pinky toe than they have.
After 50 years in business, and serving and helping people with beautiful cars -- and keeping them running and stopping smoothly and beautiful my -- and I have 14 billion part # s committed to memory to save a lot of time and trouble....

Anybody may be smarter than you -- as you say ---
But in antique automotive, **** NO ONE **** is 33 % as intelligent as I am, respectfully..... I have been #'1 in this solar system for the last quarter of a century.......
 
Just sayin', this guy was pretty good at equations....:rofl:

ein ego.jpg
 
Gentlemen, gentlemen, gentlemen. Digital peeing matches never have concrete results. Try what you can find, re-line your existing, clean the brake dust with liquid, and remember that asbestos kills. Next topic please.
 
Just happened to be here --- because I have to email someone from Austria ---
Thank you for the shout out --- Others will probably chime in that N.O.S. +++ Asbestos +++ is far and away the far and away best braking system known to mankind....
And this car did get the two different brake set ups:
11" x 3" Fronts with 11" x 2 1/2" Rears (and the drums are always 1/4" wider -- since the brake shoes don't go "lip - to - lip".... &
11" x 2 3/4" Fronts with 11" x 2" Rears --- which it appears your car has...

I have all of the above in N.O.S. +++ Asbestos +++ at this moment in time....

I am tieing up many loose ends from the just completed Spring Carlisle --- and will be on the phone all morning steady , hunting down 30 other items....

Call me this afternoon , Thanks, 516 - 485 - 1935 ....
Yours, Craig...
HI Craig would you mind pm your email address?
 
Good reading here! thanks for entertaining me. While on this topic I am in the middle of rebuilding the front end of my 67, had the drums turned and waiting for new parts to arrive.
I have been reading about different methods for arching the new shoes, everything from smacking them with a hammer, gluing sandpaper to the drums, using belt sander, cutting the rib of the shoe and welding back together etc. etc. Does anyone here have a good tried and true way of doing it? Mobileparts?
 
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