Part ID Help, NOx?

[ALRUI]

Hi Guys, I believe this was something on the 67 CA cars for NOx reduction. It sits between manifold vacuum and the vacuum advance canister on the distributor on my 67 Fury 383. It oddly has what appears to be a Mopar fuel filter between the manifold vacuum and the green capped part. ANY input is appreciated - I believe it came from the factory or dealer like this.
Thanks!

 

[detmatt]

Pics would be helpful.

 

[ALRUI]

Pics would be helpful.

Well duh, I forgot to add it, I had it saved and forgot, sorry here it is:

 

[detmatt]

Well I don’t know what it is or if it’s factory but I’ve had one of those oddities on my shelf for a few years without being able to identify it so I’m very interested. It has no part numbers on it.

 

[Dan Scully]

Early aftermarket NOX reduction control, toss it. Required back in the day for Ca smog inspection's hook vacuum lines back up per factory.

 

[ALRUI]

Early aftermarket NOX reduction control, toss it. Required back in the day for Ca smog inspection's hook vacuum lines back up per factory.

I don't disagree yet I recall when I got the car back in the 80s they made me install a NOx device when I went to get it smogged which I did remove after (I think I may have that one somewhere). I got curious about it trying to figure out my stumble off idle ( it's either accelerator pump or an advance issue I believe).

 

[Dan Scully]

You had to change draft tubes to PCV valves and add a NOX device to most cars for initial registration and the biannual smog inspection. Used to be 1953 and down had no smog inspection as it stands now only 76 and newer have smog inspections on most vehicles.

 

[detmatt]

Good to know, now I can toss it.

 

[detmatt]

I don't disagree yet I recall when I got the car back in the 80s they made me install a NOx device when I went to get it smogged which I did remove after (I think I may have that one somewhere). I got curious about it trying to figure out my stumble off idle ( it's either accelerator pump or an advance issue I believe).

What carb are you running?

 

[ALRUI]

What carb are you running?

Carter BBD 2bbl which is the stock carb that came on the car. Love to see a video of how that accelerator pump functions engine off as I don't think mine is dropping down as far as it should be.

 

[detmatt]

Carter BBD 2bbl which is the stock carb that came on the car. Love to see a video of how that accelerator pump functions engine off as I don't think mine is dropping down as far as it should be.

I have no experience with these but maybe @Dana could shed some light.

 

[Dana]

Carter BBD 2bbl which is the stock carb that came on the car. Love to see a video of how that accelerator pump functions engine off as I don't think mine is dropping down as far as it should be.

With the throttle closed, pull on the top of the acc pump and see if it will raise further. You may just have to shorten your rod to get a better pump shot. Where is your timing now?

 

[ALRUI]

With the throttle closed, pull on the top of the acc pump and see if it will raise further. You may just have to shorten your rod to get a better pump shot. Where is your timing now?

It seems to be pulling it to the top of the air horn but I'll look again. The timing is right at 7 degrees before TDC. I need to test the vacuum advance as well as remove that NOx setup as maybe it's failed and isn't allowing vacuum to the advance unit.

 

[Dana]

7* is late. This fuel needs more lead than that. Fire it up, let it heat cycle twice.(t-stat opening) that way you know everything thing is where it is going to be. Then start advancing your timing. Noice the idle start to smooth and the rpm raise. That is more complete combustion. At 7* you are sending a lot of unburnt fuel out of the tailpipe.

 

[ALRUI]

7* is late. This fuel needs more lead than that. Fire it up, let it heat cycle twice.(t-stat opening) that way you know everything thing is where it is going to be. Then start advancing your timing. Noice the idle start to smooth and the rpm raise. That is more complete combustion. At 7* you are sending a lot of unburnt fuel out of the tailpipe.

You thinking more like 10 before TDC or? It was up to normal operating temp but hadn't driven it, I should have checked it again after I got back from the gas station. I'll do what you said but meanwhile I have to wait for my son to finish up, he pulled the valve covers to paint and put new gaskets since they were leaking a bit after 55 years

 

[fury fan]

7* is late. This fuel needs more lead than that. Fire it up, let it heat cycle twice.(t-stat opening) that way you know everything thing is where it is going to be. Then start advancing your timing. Noice the idle start to smooth and the rpm raise. That is more complete combustion. At 7* you are sending a lot of unburnt fuel out of the tailpipe.

Agreed with that.

Also, as your timing chain wears, more initial timing helps to compensate. (it doesn't help the cam timing, but it gets the distributor rotor where it needs to be)

I generally give mine as much initial as they can handle without pinging, then back it off a few degrees. I also let it heat-soak and make sure it can restart without fighting the starter. When an engine has some miles on it the factory specs aren't really relevant anymore IMO.

And I use one of these. It is a retard module, 15deg max retard. But you can install the distributor advanced way past what is usable in normal driving, and use the knob to bring it back. The benefit to that is when the engine is cold, you can crank the knob and add a lot more timing to it until it warms up. And that makes a *huge* difference in an engine that has some miles on it. Makes it so much smoother, quieter and more responsive the first few miles.

Pricey, though. This module is $235 on top of the ~$300 MSD module for the ignition. Back when I bought it, $235 would get both boxes!

 

[fury fan]

... It sits between manifold vacuum and the vacuum advance canister on the distributor on my 67 Fury 383. It oddly has what appears to be a Mopar fuel filter between the manifold vacuum and the green capped part...

Is the vacuum advance on your distributor attached to ported vacuum on the carb, or solely sourced to manifold vacuum via this NOx stuff?
If not on ported vacuum, it needs to be.

 

[saforwardlook]

Early aftermarket NOX reduction control, toss it. Required back in the day for Ca smog inspection's hook vacuum lines back up per factory.

I respectfully disagree as Chrysler developed the CAP valve and it was installed standard on all vehicles destined for California. It is not an aftermarket item per se.

Automotive History: Chrysler’s CAP, The First Effective Exhaust Emission Control (With ’63 Dodge and Dart Road Tests)

It is also described in the factory service manuals in the approximate 1967 model year and later................................