azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
No, It is factory. It was mounted in the glove box but the liner is out so it was just hanging there.
For Sale Parting Out 65 New Yorker Town Sedan
- Thread starter azblackhemi
- Start date
No, It is factory. It was mounted in the glove box but the liner is out so it was just hanging there.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
The headlight switch is good but I can't find a part number on it. I have another just like it also no part number.
69CoronetRT
Senior Member
I'd be interested in the fender tag, broadcast sheet or any other factory documents you find.
So, do you think that little metal piece that holds the switch is supposed to be there behind the liner, perhaps as some sort of support for finger pressing?
Or did the previous owner put that little piece in to hold the switch perhaps because the glove box liner was trashed? I've never seen that little metal support before - usually a hole is just made in the glove box material and the switch and the bezel ring provide enough support.
Or did the previous owner put that little piece in to hold the switch perhaps because the glove box liner was trashed? I've never seen that little metal support before - usually a hole is just made in the glove box material and the switch and the bezel ring provide enough support.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
Yes I do because I've had a couple of others just like that. They even had the straight blade screw that this one has.
Interesting. Can you indicate where the straight blade screw mounted to behind the liner? Just so I have a basic idea.
Not to take money off Chris' table, but if that rubber coupler is old or close to original, I would NOT use it. There are new ones available (they show up on eBay periodically, and are stupidly expensive), but the good news is that there's a Range Rover coupler upgrade that is the cheapest and safest alternative retrofit on the planet.
Regardless, I would trust Chris if he inspects the coupler and deems it fit for use.
For your info though, here's some posts about the Range Rover steering coupler from other posts here on the site:
@Ross Wooldridge said:
Steering Flex Coupling For Range Rover Classic (See Fitment Years) (Part #NTC3486) - Land Rover bolts, clamps, nuts & hardware from Atlantic British
Minor mods required as it's a tad too thick, but it's an excellent affordable alternative that is designed for automotive duty.
@Trace 300 Hurst said:
The Rover coupling is 1 5/16ths thick, while the OEM unit is 1 inch. I took Rover to a machine shop that milled the excess thickness off of one side. Then I drilled the recesses in the holes for the Allen bolt heads.
HOWEVER, I now think the 5/16 doesn't need to be milled off because there is enough travel in the pot (lower) coupling to accommodate the extra thickness. YMMV depending on your car, of course.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
I agree with Ross. I do have a couple that look good but they are 50 year old rubber so new would be a safer way to go.
Not to take money off Chris' table, but if that rubber coupler is old or close to original, I would NOT use it. There are new ones available (they show up on eBay periodically, and are stupidly expensive), but the good news is that there's a Range Rover coupler upgrade that is the cheapest and safest alternative retrofit on the planet.
Regardless, I would trust Chris if he inspects the coupler and deems it fit for use.
For your info though, here's some posts about the Range Rover steering coupler from other posts here on the site:
@Ross Wooldridge said:
Steering Flex Coupling For Range Rover Classic (See Fitment Years) (Part #NTC3486) - Land Rover bolts, clamps, nuts & hardware from Atlantic British
Minor mods required as it's a tad too thick, but it's an excellent affordable alternative that is designed for automotive duty.
@Trace 300 Hurst said:
The Rover coupling is 1 5/16ths thick, while the OEM unit is 1 inch. I took Rover to a machine shop that milled the excess thickness off of one side. Then I drilled the recesses in the holes for the Allen bolt heads.
HOWEVER, I now think the 5/16 doesn't need to be milled off because there is enough travel in the pot (lower) coupling to accommodate the extra thickness. YMMV depending on your car, of course.
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Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Hey Chris: What kinda shape is the brake booster in? Is it any good or is it just a core? I may need one for my '66 300 convertible.
300L
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your help Ross and Chris.
The steering coupler that is now in my car is still okay, in my opinion.
I already had two of the Range Rover parts, but unfortunately no machine shop is able to shorten them (both destroyed).
Thanks for the info that I can build it in without editing them, I've never tried.
The steering coupler that is now in my car is still okay, in my opinion.
I already had two of the Range Rover parts, but unfortunately no machine shop is able to shorten them (both destroyed).
Thanks for the info that I can build it in without editing them, I've never tried.
BigblueC
Senior Member
I'll dig out my original in a day or two and try to compare with the pictures. For some reason mine was/is an odd ball that I never could find an exact match for. The switch that I have now plugs up and works the exterior lights but not the interior. I'll get back to you when I have my original one in hand.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
I would consider it a core. Any wear items on this car I would consider a core. It might work fine now but for how long?
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
I'll PM you about it. Thanks.
azblackhemi
Old Man with a Hat
Sale pending on the trunk vacuum release parts.
Great!
By the way - a couple of parts to consider "stockpiling" Chris -
For those with 65-66 C bodies with factory AC, the heater hose bracket that bolts to the alternator is a unique item. All the reproduction ones have major differences. The factory one has an extra long "bed" that holds the hoses, and later years and the repro ones do not. See the pictures below (one from @rexus31 's beautiful 65 Chrysler 300 rag, and the other from my Canadian 440 engine).
The other part worthwhile saving is the gas pedal pivot that pokes through the firewall - it is Auto Pilot specific, and is hard to find.
For those with 65-66 C bodies with factory AC, the heater hose bracket that bolts to the alternator is a unique item. All the reproduction ones have major differences. The factory one has an extra long "bed" that holds the hoses, and later years and the repro ones do not. See the pictures below (one from @rexus31 's beautiful 65 Chrysler 300 rag, and the other from my Canadian 440 engine).
The other part worthwhile saving is the gas pedal pivot that pokes through the firewall - it is Auto Pilot specific, and is hard to find.
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Carmine
Old Man with a Hat
I tend to believe it was either airborne at some serious speed/height or flattened after the fact by machine. They did test for rollovers back then, these aren't just random accident photos... others in the series show the Proving Grounds,weight sleds, etc. Photos from top-secret location...
300L
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I know they used to do crash tests back in the days. But when I see how thin my A-pillar is and I realize that I don't have a B-pillar, I don't want to roll over with my old cars. I don't want to bump anything with the front either, because I know that my steering column is only one piece and would pierce me at higher speeds.
Carmine
Old Man with a Hat
Prior to the use of collapsing columns (67) steering wheels were designed with a good amount of "dish" to take up some of that energy before you'd meet the actual shaft.
You should be good to hit another car up to about 60, or a wall at 30+ before the column comes to get you. Not that I'm advising you try.
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