Ping under load

mgm1986

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I think I have a bit of a ping under load and think its timing related. Seems to be running a bit hotter since I put the new distributor in. I checked timing and it is exactly 10 BTDC. Do I need to compensate for an old timing chain to get rid of the ping?

Thanks!
 
A couple questions: are you running vacuum advance, if so where's it connected? Electronic or points?
 
On old tired engines, I ignore the factory specs.
I just keep twisting the distributer CW a/o CCW until it stops pinging for the grade of gasoline I want to use in it.

You didn't say what the engine was BTW...
 
On old tired engines, I ignore the factory specs.
I just keep twisting the distributer CW a/o CCW until it stops pinging for the grade of gasoline I want to use in it.

You didn't say what the engine was BTW...

This is actually my game plan and I appreciate the confirmation! Its a 1968 318 with 143k on the clock.
 
A couple questions: are you running vacuum advance, if so where's it connected? Electronic or points?

Standard points with gap set using FSM (I think to .017). The vacuum line from the distributor connects to the carburetor. Brand new distributor.

I am gonna try the ol' twist and drive and see if I can get the pinging to stop. Also need to check total timing which I just learned about. This is all new to me with the Fury, great fun learning about it too!! Hopefully today I can get to it, otherwise tomorrow.
 
May also be a highly carbonized at 143k. Try kicking it up to premium gasoline if need be.

Oh it DEFINITELY is/was highly carbonized! Replacing the intake manifold gasket I found both center passages completely blocked with carbon the size of rocks on the intake and the block, I think they are called flow through passages or something like that. Picture of one of the chunks I got out of the intake manifold:

IMG_1809.jpg

I have been running Sunoco 93 with lead additive every other fill up.

IMG_1809.jpg
 
And do a good set of STEAL timing gearz an chain. Those plasiic gearz were only ment to last 'tween 80K 'n 100K from the factory on the 318s. With 143K I'm surprised you're not jumpin' teeth on that plastic gear set. AND CALK THE CORNERS WHERE THE PAN AND TIMING COVER GASKETZ MEET OR YOU NEVER WILL STOP THE LEAK, Jer
 
Thanks for the tip on the valve job! Until then I adjusted timing to 6 BTDC and it stopped the pinging under heavy load. Ideally it will make it through the summer without needing a timing chain. I will need to research what this entails before I dive in either way. I'd rather wait to do much more to the 318 until I get to swap it out with the 340 next year.

Will be taking a 60 mile trip tomorrow with a car full of people so it's gonna be a good test.
 
More important than initial itming is the total amount of advance, and at what rpm that comes in. Also - hte carb was not designed to run on today's fuels and it's probably lean. If you haven't - rebuild it. Id you have - look at the part throttle enrichment and jetting. If you go up one or two sizes you may find more power and no more ping.
 
Moper is right also you said new distributor, from past experience the vacuum canisters are all the way unwound or low tension on the spring, this is worth spending some time with because it cost nothing other than a 3/32 allen wrench, stick it through the nipple in vacuum advance canister turn ccw to increase spring tension somewhere like 3 turns to start and then 1/2 or 1 turn either way depending on how it behaves.
 
Have you mentioned these issues to the car load of people.....? Or are you bring them along in case you need to push the car.....?

Oh yes, they were all well aware of the potential for having to push! Worth it to them getting a ride in such a sweet convertible!
 
I have not checked total advance, I will plan to though. I did rebuild the carb using a kit with new gaskets and ball bearings and new float. I didn't touch the jets through, just soaked it clean and reassembled.

I will also see if I can indeed adjust the distributor vacuum canister. Thanks all!
 
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