Pls Help: Upper Ball Joint Too High?? 77 New Yorker

Brakes, Suspension, Rims and Tires

  1. 77newyorker440

    77newyorker440 Active Member

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    I don't think it is incorrect, according to Dave's description I think it is accurate. This is the one I got: Front Bump Stops - Dodge Dart - MOOG moog-k7293. It hasn't hit the frame yet, so it isn't really holding the control arm from coming down, but the one I took off was completely squashed, so it is making it a bit harder, but I think I'll try to keep it in order to keep the suspension pretty much complete
     
  2. 77newyorker440

    77newyorker440 Active Member

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    Yep, I ordered the tool from O'Reilly's, it should come in tomorrow, so I'll tighten that ball joint down and see what happens.
    Thanks for all the info and advice!
    77newyorker440
     
  3. 77newyorker440

    77newyorker440 Active Member

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    Yes, I actually own the manual, I honestly just forgot to pre-read, that's my bad, but it shouldn't happen again in the future, and I am glad I make this mistake here rather than in a more crucial part of the car.
    Thanks,
    77newyorker440
     
  4. 77newyorker440

    77newyorker440 Active Member

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    Awesome, thanks for letting me know, when I do the passenger side one I will definitely fully tighten it down into the UCA so it is seated.
    Thanks,
    77newyorker440
     
  5. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    After doing some more thinking, the ball joints that were on your car are definitely replacements, and so is the one in my photo. You're going to need a big hex socket to remove your old ball joint since it doesn't have the correct shape like the Moog replacements do. I don't think the special socket is going to fit on the old one. It looks like it's just a standard hex.

    Here's what the socket looks like, and you can see it's an odd shape.
    10214-500x500.png

    There are also two or three different size sockets, so hopefully they are getting you the right one. You need the biggest one that will also work on pickups and vans.


    Here's my tip for doing the job:

    Break the ball joint free from the control arm before you disconnect anything else. The more firmly anchored the control arm is, the better for cranking on that joint. Do the opposite when you're putting the new one in. Get it reasonably tight in the arm, attach the stud to the knuckle, then crank down hard on the joint to get it seated.

    Jeff
     
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  6. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

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    The arm still has to come down. You are saying that it isn't.
    If the bumper is correct, that's fine... If it's not hitting... Then you haven't pulled the arm down to meet the spindle. If the arm doesn't pull down, then something is wrong.

    If it's stiff because of new bushings, then loosen the bolts and tighten after it's together, (which I'll make an argument should be done anyway, but some will disagree that it's not necessary).

    As I said, I don't loosen the torsion bars, but it has been recommended by many, especially because you are new at this, and I agree that it will help pull the LCA up, but the UCA still has to come down to meet it...

    Let's also ask this question... What else did you change? I can't see if the lower ball joint has been changed and usually those are what wear and the uppers don't (as much). Obviously, the lower control arm bushings weren't changed (never touched the torsion bars) , another spot that wears before the upper bushings.

    You've still got to address the upper ball joint anyway... Buy the right socket and see if it tightens (I bet it won't) and either replace the UCA or a couple welds to hold the new one in place.
     
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  7. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Old Man with a Hat

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    The "shallow threads" constitute a "lock nut" sort of interference fit situation with normal threads they screw into. Otherwise known as "prevailing torque" in some cases.

    CBODY67
     
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  8. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    I may be mistaken about the old ball joints having a simple hex design. I had another look at mine, and despite it looking like a hex in the photo, it actually has the curved faces on it, so yours probably does too.
     
  9. bigmoparjeff

    bigmoparjeff Senior Member

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    As Big John says, there's no need to back off the torsion bars. The only time I back off the bars is when I do lower control arm bushings or something else that requires removing the torsion bar.

    Most older rear wheel drive cars have coil springs in the front, and you don't install a spring compressor in them to unload the spring just to do ball joints. As long as you have the lower arm supported safely, you're good.

    Jeff
     
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  10. 77newyorker440

    77newyorker440 Active Member

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    So far, I have changed the shocks, tie rods and sleeves, bumpers, and sway bar links. The upper ball joint was the next step, and I was thinking about having the lower control arms done by the local classic car mechanic, since I have absolutely no experience with those. The tool arrives today, so I will try it and update you guys on how it goes.
    Thanks,
    77newyorker440
     
  11. 77newyorker440

    77newyorker440 Active Member

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    Good News!

    Decided to unwind the torsion bar on the driver's side, and we were easily able to put the ball joint in. Then, when tightening the ball joint crown nut, the ball joint pulled down and seated in the UCA, so hopefully, it is good, but I'll let you know if it falls out or comes loose. The tool worked great on the passenger side for removing and installing the ball joint, so thank you for the tips. It did not go on great on the new ball joint but was very snug on the old one. The only trouble with that job was putting the new shock absorber in, but after using some electrical tape to hold the shock in an unexpanded state as we lined it up, it worked out well. Thank you all for all of your help, going to take her in for an alignment and new tires very soon. Now, the car is finally back on the ground for the first time in about a month, but with even more problems, which I am going to layout in a new post on the electrical forum.
    Thanks,
    77newyorker440
     
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