Upper Ball Joint Replacement

[Omni]

Good Day All
Working on the '65 Newport. Got the upper control arms off, bushings and ball joint out.
I have the replacement upper ball joint threaded in to approx 1/16" of having the 'nut' contact the 'sleeve' of the control arm.
Cannot coax it any further. With all the crud on the old ball joints, cannot tell if it was seated flush or not.
Is this as far in as it goes, or do I need to get more pipe for the breaker bar?
Thanks to all who respond.
Omni

 

[65Port]

Maybe some heat on the arm only? Can you chase with the old one to make sure it is not thread pitch difference? Should go more than 1/16" I'd say. I know it's a new part and all but you never know..

 

[Davea Lux]

Take the ball joint back out and coat the threads with some good penetrating oil, that will help dissolve any rust. Then try it again. If you have the old ball joint handy, note how many clean threads are on it, this will give you an estimate as to how far it should screw in.

Dave

 

[MoPar~Man]

I'm assuming the instructions for '65 won't be any different vs '67:

I'd go over the control arm threads with a wire wheel / cup first if you have one.

 

[mrfury68]

I'd go over the control arm threads with a wire wheel / cup first if you have one.

Make sure those threads are clean and not nicked up in any way. Good luck.

 

[Gerald Morris]

CLean out that control arm but GOOD! Check the threads on the new BJ. Make sure you have the control arm securely mounted somewhere BESIDES ON THE CAR when you commence torquing it down. I use a big long length of 1 " pipe and pass it through the holes which will later house the upper control arm bushings. If the control arm is still mounted, you will ruin the bushings if you try torquing down the ball joint, so remove it, clean it up, prime and paint it even, THEN screw that ball joint in.

 

[HOT FURY]

Good Day All
Working on the '65 Newport. Got the upper control arms off, bushings and ball joint out.
I have the replacement upper ball joint threaded in to approx 1/16" of having the 'nut' contact the 'sleeve' of the control arm.
Cannot coax it any further. With all the crud on the old ball joints, cannot tell if it was seated flush or not.
Is this as far in as it goes, or do I need to get more pipe for the breaker bar?
Thanks to all who respond.
Omni

I had similar issues with mine last year, if you have access to an impact wrench it helps. Clean the threads well and put a thin coat of anti seize on them before installing the new ball joints

 

[HOT FURY]

I had similar issues with mine last year, if you have access to an impact wrench it helps. Clean the threads well and put a thin coat of anti seize on them before installing the new ball joints

also its easier to remove/install the ball joints with the control arms bolted back in.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

and put a thin coat of anti seize on them

Now your talking, penatrating oil is for tire mount and dismount on the rim.

 

[commando1]

Clean the threads well and put a thin coat of anti seize on them before installing the new ball joints

I never met anyone who installed new ball joints and kept the car long enough to need another replacement.

 

[Omni]

Thanks to all who responded.
I did clean the threads with penetrant oil and a brass brush. New joints MOOG) received a light coating of anti-sieze.
Was able to get them to seat with a 1/2" impact taking my time going forward then backing up making a little forward progress each time.
Now, on to the pitman arm...
Omni