PLYMOUTH SPORT FURY 383 TICKING :( HELP PLEASE

[artur.klepczynski111]

Hello, I have a question. For a while now, when I start the engine, I've been hearing an unpleasant "rattling, knocking" sound coming from the left valve cover.

I thought it was a problem with the lifters, and I think it is, but I don't have the knowledge to determine it myself.
What should I do in this situation? Replace everything?

What could be the problem here?

Greetings from Poland

 

[detmatt]

If the valve is closed and there’s no pressure on the rocker they jiggle freely like that. Put the covers back on Post another video with a cold start.

 

[Blusmbl]

The side to side play is normal. The shaft wears on the underside where they contact the rocker arm, and the rocker arm wears there as well.

Does any single valve have more lash than the others when the lifters are bled down?

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

"but I don't have the knowledge to determine it myself."

Guys,
Please keep in mind what the OP stated about his experience with engines/valvetrains and keep your suggestions simple (like @detmatt did with his good troubleshooting suggestion). I've seen time and time again here where someone who is looking for advice for a problem soon starts getting suggestions for roller cams, Jessel titanium rockers, aluminum heads, gear drives, 10-quart oilpans, superchargers, turbosuperchargers, replacement engines, replacement cars..................

 

[Unix]

another common misconception with ticking/slight knocking sounds, is when the exhaust manifold gaskets gets a blowby.

I recently got a similar sound, loud ticking near the left engine side, just after start-up, which gradually goes away almost completely after warm-up , but is still noticeable.

Found it to be an exhaust manifold gasket which is leaking. I can even smell a little fumes in the cabin now, when driving. Simple repair.

 

[Big_John]

A couple questions are in order. Since the description sounds like lifter noise..... Does the noise go away after the engine warms up? Is the car being driven? What oil? How long since the oil change?

The easiest things it could be are lifter noise or exhaust leaking at the manifold. If it's lifter noise, probably the first thing to try is getting the engine hot and draining the oil when it's hot. Then replace oil and filter.

If it's the exhaust leaking, look to see if someone installed a gasket under the manifold. There shouldn't be one. If there isn't give the manifold bolts/nut a little tightening and see if it improves.... Actually, if there's a gasket, try that too, but usually that involves pulling the manifold, cleaning it up and reinstalling without a gasket.

If the valve is closed and there’s no pressure on the rocker they jiggle freely like that. Put the covers back on Post another video with a cold start.

^Do this too! ^

 

[Unix]

A couple questions are in order. Since the description sounds like lifter noise..... Does the noise go away after the engine warms up? Is the car being driven? What oil? How long since the oil change?

The easiest things it could be are lifter noise or exhaust leaking at the manifold. If it's lifter noise, probably the first thing to try is getting the engine hot and draining the oil when it's hot. Then replace oil and filter.

If it's the exhaust leaking, look to see if someone installed a gasket under the manifold. There shouldn't be one. If there isn't give the manifold bolts/nut a little tightening and see if it improves.... Actually, if there's a gasket, try that too, but usually that involves pulling the manifold, cleaning it up and reinstalling without a gasket.


^Do this too! ^

Big John, aren't there supposed to be gaskets ?

I have these between head and manifold.

More Information for FEL-PRO MS90029

EDIT / ok i just read some on Chat GPT
Maybe that's why it blew the gasket on my engine. I'll check the surfaces and maybe mate them without gaskets and give it a try

CHAT GPT
Short answer: From the factory, most 1971 Mopar 383 engines did not use exhaust manifold gaskets.

Details​

• Chrysler big-block engines (361/383/400/413/426W/440) were typically built with machined cast-iron exhaust manifolds that sealed directly to the cylinder head—no gasket in between.
• This was intentional: iron-to-iron contact handles heat cycling better and is less likely to blow out than a thin gasket.

When should you use gaskets?​

You might add gaskets if:

• The manifolds or head surfaces are pitted, warped, or previously machined, making a perfect metal-to-metal seal unlikely.
• You’re installing headers, which do require gaskets.
• You prefer modern high-temp composite or copper gaskets to compensate for imperfect surfaces.

Best practice​

If you're using stock manifolds and the sealing surfaces are clean and flat:
No gasket—just bolt them up.

If the surfaces aren’t perfect:
Use quality composite or copper gaskets.

If you'd like, I can help identify the correct torque specs or proper bolt tightening sequence for the 383 exhaust manifolds.

 

[Unix]

And some more from Chat GPT , regarding the question in the thread :

A metallic ticking sound on the left (driver’s) side of a 1971 Chrysler Newport with a 383 big-block is usually caused by something in the valve train, exhaust, or accessory drive. Here are the most common causes, starting with the most likely:

---

1. Exhaust leak at the manifold (VERY common on 383/440 engines)​

A leaking exhaust manifold gasket or loose bolt creates a sharp metallic “tick”, especially noticeable at idle and when cold.
Symptoms:

• Tick speeds up with RPM
• Often quieter when engine warms
• Soot around manifold ports
• Slight “puffing” feel if you put your hand near the leak

The driver side manifold on big-block Mopars is known for warping.

---

2. Loose rocker arm / worn rocker shaft​

The 383 uses a shaft-mounted rocker system. Wear on the shaft, loose bolts, or excessive valve lash can make a light metal tick.
Symptoms:

• Consistent rhythmic tick
• Louder when the valve cover is off
• Sometimes misfire or slight loss of power

---

3. Collapsed or sticking hydraulic lifter​

Even though the 383 has hydraulic lifters, they can collapse or gum up with age.
Symptoms:

• Tick that comes and goes
• Louder when cold
• May quiet down at higher RPM

---

4. Worn cam lobe​

A flattened cam lobe causes a duller tick and reduced valve lift.
Symptoms:

• Slight rough idle
• Power loss
• Tick doesn’t go away warm or cold

---

5. Loose spark plug​

A spark plug that is loose or cross-threaded can make a very metallic tick, almost identical to an exhaust leak.
Symptoms:

• Strong exhaust smell near plug
• Soot on threads
• Tick changes when you lightly tighten plug

---

6. Fuel pump arm noise​

The mechanical fuel pump on the 383 is on the left side. Its actuating arm can tick if worn or not seated properly.
Symptoms:

• Tick is louder near the front of the engine
• Changes with RPM
• Often misdiagnosed as a lifter

---

7. Accessory or pulley noise​

Less common, but possible:

• Alternator bearing
• Power steering pump
• Harmonic balancer beginning to separate

These usually make more of a chirp or grind than a tick.

---

How to narrow it down quickly​

A. Use a mechanic’s stethoscope (or a long screwdriver).​

• Listen at the valve cover → lifter/rocker noise
• Listen at exhaust manifold → leak
• Listen at fuel pump → pump arm
• Listen at alternator/pulleys → accessory bearings

B. Cold vs. hot behavior​

• Quieter when warm: likely exhaust leak, lifter pumped up, or loose rocker
• Same hot or cold: likely rocker wear, cam lobe, or accessory

C. Quick test for exhaust leak​

• Block the tailpipe briefly with a rag → ticking often gets louder
• Or spray soapy water on manifold edges (cold) → bubbling = leak

---

If you want, I can help you pinpoint it:​

Tell me:

1. Does the ticking change with RPM?
2. Does it go away or improve when warm?
3. Is it loudest at the front, middle, or rear of the engine?
4. Any recent work done on the engine?

With that, I can narrow it to 1–2 likely causes.

 

[CBODY67]

Use ChatGPT or similar AI-generated answers ONLY AS AN ADVISORY. You might be younger than when the first computer orientation was "Garbage in, Garbage out". Any AI-generated answer CAN easily prove that!

It might seem unusual, but typically cast iron exhaust manifolds against cast iron cyl heads (KEY point, there!) do not normally use any type of gasket between the two items. Same material type, same heat expansion characteristics. Steel header flanges need gaskets.

There are different types of header gaskets. Some soft, some harder with internal reinforcements, which can handle higher heat situations.

Sometimes, the cast iron manifold can warp or become un-flat, so in that case, the manifold flange area can be "flattened" with a "rotating rock" cyl head surfacer rather than a lathe machine. If it comes out "flat", no problems. Some people just "put a gasket on it" and call it done, instead.

The old 265cid Chevy V-8s, in 1955, used individual exhaust gaskets, but they later were discontinued as "not needed", by GM. Yet many aftermarket gasket sets still had them in there.

Try checking the torque on the exh manifold bolts at the cyl head on both sides. Just snug them up, no massive torque should be needed. If the sound goes away, success!

In so MANY diag suggestions, many go for the "full meal deal" first. Rather than seeking to find the REAL ISSUE (usually just ONE segment of the full meal deal), which is usually rather simple, quick, easy, and CHEAP to do. End result, much money spent for little benefit!

Repeat . . . ChatGPT OR any other AI-related "tool" should be used as an advisory rather than "the final source" of any information! It compiles what is already out there, which CAN also include bad information. It is supposed to read trends of similar information, but if that information stream is bad, it will give bad results. "Listen to it", then VERIFY, always. In one case, it mistook a stroker LA-block 408 as a B/RB block engine, in its search results!

In general, no real need to re-post the Chat GPT search results, just summarize them. In many Google search results, they now include a Google AI summarization of search results.

In ANY diagnosis, do the simple things first!

CBODY67

 

[GOLDMYN]

some normal ticking should be expected, I have a question, what model carburetor are you using?, from what I can see, looks a tad unusual, Mike in chilton, Wisconsin USA

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

In ANY diagnosis, do the simple things first!

CBODY67

I had hoped you would get the message from my earlier post. But here you go again:

A history of cast iron manifolds, cylinder heads and gaskets, full meal deals, a lesson on flattening the manifolds with a "rotating rock" machine, something about a 1955 265 Chevy engine, and something about a LA 408 block....plus your take on AI and the theory of diagnosis. It seems to me that you have already diagnosed the problem as being an exhaust leak, with no real information at all. An this for inexperienced fellow in Poland with a tick in his engine who is asking for help.

I know you mean well, but you chime in with all this unrelated and misleading stuff time and time again.

 

[CBODY67]

I had hoped you would get the message from my earlier post. But here you go again:

A history of cast iron manifolds, cylinder heads and gaskets, full meal deals, a lesson on flattening the manifolds with a "rotating rock" machine, something about a 1955 265 Chevy engine, and something about a LA 408 block....plus your take on AI and the theory of diagnosis. It seems to me that you have already diagnosed the problem as being an exhaust leak, with no real information at all. An this for inexperienced fellow in Poland with a tick in his engine who is asking for help.

I know you mean well, but you chime in with all this unrelated and misleading stuff time and time again.

I consider that "background information" from my experiences. Perhaps it comes from my parents being career school teachers and my orientation toward "product information" which can be shared with customers (in my career as a dealership front counter parts sales person, plus a car enthusiast) who had little information of WHY their cars acted as they did, when it was normal. Correct information that they could then verify with other sources. "Trust", but verify if desired.

Loose rocker arms? Shaft-mounted rocker arms are that way because they have to be, unlike stud-mounted rocker arms. Certainly, there can be wear on the shafts and rockers, but as the rockers are under tension, not as big a deal as some might expect. The side washers are there to limit lateral movement. Certainly not a place where "a tick" might happen.

It helps to diag where the noise is really coming from.

Simple things first! NOT "replace everything".

I sensed the OP's potential knowledge level initially, which is why I added my comments. NOT to minimize what had already been mentioned, but hopefully explain and add to them. Just as these comments can do.

Respectfully,
CBODY67

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

"I consider that "background information" from my experiences." The OP doesn't care about your background info and experiences. He wants useful suggestions, not Whack-a-Mole.

"Loose rocker arms? Shaft-mounted rocker arms are that way because they have to be, unlike stud-mounted rocker arms." The OP doesn't not care about stud-mounted rockers. Can't you understand that he probably knows next-to-nothing, yet you pile on with your "background information and experiences". A rotating rock machine? Really?

 

[Big_John]

Big John, aren't there supposed to be gaskets ?

No gaskets. But that doesn't mean it's not something else.

Regarding Chat GTP, I don't comment on any AI generated information as what I have seen is usually incorrect and confusing. I choose to ignore it.

 

[413]

Funny story kinda related.

I worked at a repair shop, good custome comes in with a mid 70's Datsun 4 cyl pickup. "Engine has a noise, you can't miss it". I check it out, the timing chain is eating away at the engine because the tensioners are toast and chai e is very sloppy. Call him, make a plan, tear into it, call with results and estimate, replaced tensioners and chain. Runs great now. He takes it and comes back 5 minutes later, " it's still there".

He has a very slight tick in the exhaust that just drives him crazy, he never noticed or heard the chain sawing away at his engine block and head!

 

[413]

Could be the heat riser valve loose and rattling.
May possibilities. We need to hear it.

Put valve cover on and start the engine. Make a new video.

 

[Unix]

No gaskets. But that doesn't mean it's not something else.

Regarding Chat GTP, I don't comment on any AI generated information as what I have seen is usually incorrect and confusing. I choose to ignore it.

In my ride its the exhaust it's already diagnosed. You surprised me with the no gaskets post, will defintely give it a go if the surfaces are good. The AI stuff is obviously not to be taken seriously, but can give some suggestions on where to look. And it is getting better as we speak...