Poppy, my first C-body

Now properly adjusted window operation and alignment has been restored.

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Inspected the front suspension and found the following, both lower control arm bushings were very dry rotted to the point proper toe in couldn't be reached and is causing a pull to the left under braking. Strut rod bushings are hard as concrete and cracked w/ poor fitment. Another file 13 candidate. To complicate matters the left lower ball joint needs replaced. Currently waiting on parts to be delivered. Updates to follow soon.

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Inspected the front suspension and found the following, both lower control arm bushings were very dry rotted to the point proper toe in couldn't be reached and is causing a pull to the left under braking. Strut rod bushings are hard as concrete and cracked w/ poor fitment. Another file 13 candidate. To complicate matters the left lower ball joint needs replaced. Currently waiting on parts to be delivered. Updates to follow soon.

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Interesting that you will be doing the same work I did that took most of the whole day to complete today. I got everything apart on the front suspension to replace bushings and ball joints on my 71 triple black 300. The stub frame is also out now so I can get it sand blasted and powder coated and all the suspension parts will be done as well.
 
Any reason these would not fit the '70 Chrysler vert?
I will give you a further update on the capability of being used on the 300 convertibles. As I remember from quite a few years ago I believe they are different in the way they attach. Will keep you posted with my final determination.
 
Ever think of GEN III'n it ?...5.7 out of a ram would be sweet
I was going to mention this would be the perfect time/excuse to retrofit Magnum heads onto the 318 for a nice driveability boost in a heavy car, but feared the record-level of red Xs I would get. :mob:

But @chilsam - you went all-out in your suggestion and nobody said a thing! :confused:
 
Preserving originality is what I want here. If the 318 ever conked out, then a Magnum would be in the cards.
 
I would like to know what the v01 is on your car?
I see one color. Isn't vo1 a two tone paint coloration. Top is different than body at the vinyl points.
How does that work with this car being a vert?

EDIT: I just realized that the v01 is not v02. I was thinking that was the two tone paint scheme.
My mistake.

So, V01 is a mono tone paint scheme? Why is that on the tag since every car is a mono tone paint scheme without v02?
 
I have gone through my C body fender tags and see that the V01 is on about a half dozen of the tags I have copies of.
Only found one v02.

Just noting that it is apparently slightly common.
 
Preserving originality is what I want here. If the 318 ever conked out, then a Magnum would be in the cards.
Based on my limited experience with putting a 318 in hospice, you've got about 150k miles to go. (others could surely attest to having achieve much more)
Get busy! :)
 
I will give you a further update on the capability of being used on the 300 convertibles. As I remember from quite a few years ago I believe they are different in the way they attach. Will keep you posted with my final determination.
Here is an update to the above-mentioned post. THERE IS a difference in the fitment of the cat whiskers on 300 and Polara convertibles. Top Cat 990963 will fit 69-70 Chrysler 300 convertibles, they WILL NOT fit 1970 Dodge Polara convertibles. See the photos below. As you can see in photos DSC00693-DSC00694 the 14 3/4" cat whisker is the original Polara part. The replacement whisker measures 16 3/8". Also, attachment clips are different. Note the orientation of the clips from the original whisker to the replacement whiskers are different. In simple terms it won't fit. Feel free chime in on this subject.

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Is it even possible to disassemble the new whiskers, cut the rubber to size, and put the new rubber on the old hardware?
 
Is it even possible to disassemble the new whiskers, cut the rubber to size, and put the new rubber on the old hardware?
The whiskers are assembled w/ precision stamp clips in place. Attempts at modifications that I have seen are not durable and don't fit well. Photos below show excellent hardware placement.

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Thank you very much @david hill -- I have contacted Van's, from which I had ordered "Cat Whiskers 1969-1970 Dodge Polara, Monaco Convertible - Set of 8 - CHCCAT177" -- since what they sent fits perfectly a 1969-1970 300 'vert, and since you and I need a set, I have decided to keep them.
 
I believe the company @QQE is on this board. If I am not mistaken they are the original manufacturer of the replacement cat whiskers. He helped me on the rear window sweeps on my ‘68 Polara.
 
Here is the conclusion to Poppy's front suspension build. I won't bore you w/ the details of the suspension tear down w/ one exception. Many of you including my self have backed off the torsion bars as part of suspension disassembly. First raise the front end high enough to allow the lower control arm to full rotate and extend and allow for an extra 6" of clearance. What I discovered was if you remove all strut rod retaining nuts and support the lower control arm w/ your floor jack. By removing the lower shock bolt and separating the lower ball joint you can relieve all torsion bar tension by allowing the control arm to rotate and have no torsion bar pre-load. Remove the Torsion bar retaining clip and control arm retaining nut. A few taps w/ the hammer should push the torsion bar out of its rear mount. Simply pull the torsion bar rearward and out of your way. A good bead blasting and refinishing made the control arms look like new. Reverse the order on reassembly and you will have refreshed your bushings w/o disturbing you torsion bar adjustment.

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