Progress... 400/451 coming together

flyinbrick68

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Spoke to the machine shop today and got my heads back after then hardened seats were installed and new valve guides. Blocks been bored with a deck plate and the cylinders cleaned up to what I wanted, so I can run the 4.375 bore. The crank will be machined next week so that'll give me time over vacation to port the heads. Then its back to the machine shop for the valve job ect. I finally get to order some more parts! I'll be going with a dished pistons, moly rings, new harmonic balancer, and a cam when I finally decided what to run. Things are looking up so if all goes well by the end of next month everything will be balanced and put together. With a little luck the new motor will be residing back where it belongs snug in the fury's engine bay.
 
Yup im going to do my best. I've yet to port a set if cylinder heads it'll be an enjoyable learning process. I'm using the templates so i don't take out to much material an ruin the heads. I've been readin a lot of articles about porting heads and my machinist has offered advise I have more time than money. So i figured just the effort alone plus learning is reward enough in itself. :sSig_noob:I' The extra cubes with the larger volume i hope will be a benefit. Now if i can fight the urge to put in a big cam I'll be doing good.
 
I'm all ears for words of wisdom for what not to do when porting my heads from those with experience. Good or bad there's always something to learn. I really don't want to screw up a good sets of heads and make classic Newby mistakes! I've been waiting over 9 months to enjoy my fury and it's bugged the crap out of me having it stationary and broke down. She'll be a long term project and i want to do things right so the fury ends up better than new. I will try and get pics if i can get down to ks on m vacation.
 
Sounds like you have it all under control. Cant wait to see the final project. What size cam are you planning?
 
What heads are you going to run? 452, 906? Cast crank? Forged? What compression ratio will you be running? Curious as I love to run the combinations through my mind.
 
howards 721941-12 cam but maybe set at an lsa of 110. If the lift on the cam is to great i am considering a crower 32243 cam. Factory forged crank with Mains rods counterweights turned down to fit the 400. I'll be running open chamber 346 heads template ported, have to double check the numbers. I bought 2.08 1.81 milodon valves for more exhaust flow so i hope those help. I'll be using dished icon forged pistons i thin to help set the comp at 9.7:1. With forged I-beam rods 6.760 length .990 pins. I'm not sure what intake but i have a thermoquad off a big block 400 i can rebuild and use. Rockers will be used as suggested by 1970bigblock.
 
If i didn't have to have power brakes id run the cam i had ground for my 440 in my dodge d100. I think itd make tremendous torque. Its a 231/241 duration 505/500 lift intake/exhaust with timing events and fast rate of lift on par w a thumpr or whiplash cam. i think the lobe is a .337 .331 on it, should be fun with a 2800 stall.
 
Why do you "need" to run power brakes? Can you not just upgrade to a manual MC?

My wagon has too much power brake. I'm considering going to a manual set-up.
 
It just came that way from the factory..power disks an drums. if i.swapped over to 4 wheel disks i could leery the vacuum booster go and deal w manual brakes.
 
A thought occurred to my my cam ground for my 440 is made specifically to raise cylinder pressure so that'd leave me running race gas not pump with the compression i plan on running. One of my goals with this motor is to make great power and be able to fill up with pump gas pretty much anywhere. So that cam is most likely out of the question seeing how 93 octane is unavailable where i live.
 
Made my decision on pistons going with the icon 837 with a 12cc dish. Should be pretty stout with the forged I beams and ill go with moly rings. Racer brown is working on a cam profile for me and I'm glad I got ahold of him today. Super nice guy with great info and a wealth of knowledge. Next couple of days ill keep working on the heads then back to the machine shop for the final machining and I I hope my crank will be ground.
 
Started porting the heads today with the templates. Holy cow this takes a while to do! I'm hoping the porting will help some it's definitely interesting.
 
I'm hoping the porting will help some it's definitely interesting.
Sounds like it's helping already
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not going to lie its kinda ugly lol. havent got any sanding done yet but ill post pics i might have to go witha 2.14 intake. And im sorting out the pushrod pinch area need a way to measure it really. Ill post some pics.
 
pics...IMG_20140103_140652_212.jpgIMG_20140103_140731_911.jpgIMG_20140103_140015_510.jpgIMG_20140103_140128_551.jpgIMG_20140103_140413_983.jpgIMG_20140103_140524_179.jpgIMG_20140103_140550_279.jpgIMG_20140103_140559_352.jpgIMG_20140103_140618_365.jpgIMG_20140103_140644_030.jpg

You can see some difference between the ports ive worked on and roughed out and the ones with the hardened seats installed. Havent opened up any of the pinch points was kinda timid bout grinding without a way to measure the width.

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If you follow the templates closely you will be fine. Snap gauges work good to open the push rod pinch and keep consistent if you still have your old valley pan you can use it to gasket match just scribe lines inside the window. A cheap way to stay consistent at push rod pinch without snap gauges or calipers is a cheap pair of long nose pliers, get your width at the opening and clamp the pivot with vice grips to maintain the size looks crude but works , good pliers may not bind up. Only warning is don't bring bowl area all the way out to the seat
 
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