Radiator Overflow Reservoir
- Thread starter Omni
- Start date
Following - I want something that looks sortof OEM, even though there was nothing in place back then.
With the battery and washer fluid reservoir on the driver side, it can only go on the passenger side of the rad yoke.
With the battery and washer fluid reservoir on the driver side, it can only go on the passenger side of the rad yoke.
luigi164
Active Member
A few bucks...
I bought a cheap universal reservoir, welded up a bracket to locate it on the forward side of the core support using existing holes and studs located there, painted it flat black, and ran the hose to the bottom nipple (for proper siphoning/air separation). The white unpainted stripe is so I can see the coolant level. In all the times that Mopar experts have nitpicked the OEM aspects of my underhood, it's never been mentioned. It's like it's invisible or something! 
The closeup photos make everything look much more harsh due to flash, but I did allow a little "patina" to occur...scuff marks, a dot of rust here and there, etc. After all, that reservoir is 50+ years old!
The closeup photos make everything look much more harsh due to flash, but I did allow a little "patina" to occur...scuff marks, a dot of rust here and there, etc. After all, that reservoir is 50+ years old!
luigi164
Active Member
Yes, was one of the first things I did on the Newport...
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I used the same reservoir. Bought it off the shelf at Advance Auto Parts
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
Very clever, very nice.
Agreed - looks exactly like what I hope to do.
If it were me (and it might be in the future!), I'd find a cap with a bit less "80's" wording and warnings for a more sixties-ish period appearance, but I absolutely love the idea of an overflow that already looks aged and certainly much more OEM than my generic aftermarket reservoir.
Dorman makes one that is eminently affordable, and I really like the idea of what @Trace 300 Hurst did - painting it semi-gloss black so it fits in with the other componentry under hood but leaving a stripe of white to be able to view the level.
I can get the Dorman one from my local Napa for something like $22 Canadian. That kind of price appeals to my part Scottish heritage!
I can get the Dorman one from my local Napa for something like $22 Canadian. That kind of price appeals to my part Scottish heritage!
PH27L7
Well-Known Member
The old radiators with the large upper top were designed to be used without a reservoir. If properly filled there should be a good sized air void under the cap which compensates for expansion and promotes even flow across the top of the core. If the car does not leak or overheat no fluid loss on the ground should ever occur. All newer radiators with reservoirs are designed to be completely full with no air gaps with all expansion/ contraction handled by the reservoir.
Yep, I agree with that in principle. Now that I've optimized my system I doubt I need the reservoir except under an extreme condition. Our old cars do sometimes overheat (just as they sometimes did 50 years ago) due to old, partially blocked radiator tubes and coolant passages, poor thermostats, or incorrect pump impellers (non-AC on an AC car, etc), and perhaps running too lean on inferior gasoline or an out-of-spec carb. Old systems are old and cranky! So....
1) I prefer that it pukes into an overflow and gets sucked back in when all has cooled.
2) If the overflow is plumbed correctly such that the hose is always submerged (like my bottom feeder reservoir) the innards of the cooling system never gets a breath of fresh oxygen, thus putting a stop to corrosion and degradation of the coolant.
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As @Trace 300 Hurst says, I prefer it pukes into a reservoir just in case - plus we all know the dangers of coolant on the ground, not only for pollution, but if an animal gets into it. I don't want to poison my dogs or cats.
I used this Carlisle giveaway water bottle with 2 90 deg hose barbs, and yes, a bike water bottle holder to make a subtle and functional tank that sits behind the headlight. I cut away the plastic top and drill 2 holes and used JB weld to hold the barbs.
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