Rebuilding the entire front end.

polara66hardtop said:
Don't panic, it is easier than it looks. I'm going to try and simplify the steps needed, in order to give some encouragement.
First, spray every moving thing with the best WD-40 or blaster you can find. Then, Remove all tension from the torsion bars. Then look at the camber bolts, and draw a 360 degree picture of where the settings are right now. copy it down on a piece of paper, seeing it as a 24 hour clock. (done this way in the 60's) then Remove the cotter pin and nut from the upper ball joint. Unhook the brake hose and tie rod end. ( I always replace the hose at this time anyway) Then Using a hammer and pickle fork, knock the spindle away from the upper A' frame. done.

Remove the camber bolts, remove the upper A frame, go to a machine shop, and have a beer. They will press in new uppers ,and remove and Install your new ball joint for you. Then, remove the strut rod nuts. and sway bar bracket hardware, and the little keeper at the back of the torsion bar in the cross member, as well as the larger nut on front of the lower A' frame that sticks out toward the front of the K member.( I leave the brakes on to add weight).

Then, gently tap the lower A' frame with a hammer near the K member as you bounce the lower A frame. the weight of the brakes bouncing up and down will jar the torsion bar loose, and the rearward motion pushed the bar out. I would go back and forth a couple times, popping the strut rod from the frame as well. I used to attach a torsion bar tool to the bar, but found that this worked even better. Once the torsion bar is completely out, but the lower A' frame is still in the K member remove the lower ball joint Cotter key and nut, Take a hammer, and knock out the lower ball joint from the Lower A frame. The whole thing will fall on the ground. Or, You can remove your drum and backing plate from the ball joint, before or after you knock out the lower ball joint, your choice. or take it as a unit to the machine shop, and have a beer. if you haven't done this before, you have learned a lot already.

going in reverse is a matter of thinking about it. Lower A' frame goes into the K member first, with nut loose, then attach lower ball joint, cotter key and all. The upper frame goes in second with camber/caster bolts,( don't worry about the setting right now). then attach spindle and backing plate to bottom ball joint and upper ball joint with the four bolts, nuts and cotter key provided. top is now attached to bottom. Take a break.
clean and grease torsion bars, and Insert in the lower A' frame. Make sure the torsion bar adjuster bolt is screwed all the way out and then a couple turns back in, with anchors just touching adjuster at the lowest possible setting. If you have to Install new boots, do them now. then Insert bars into the frame. Your already almost an expert.
when replacing tie rods, a good habit is to Unscrew old tie rods one half turn at a time counting the exact numbers, re-install with the exact same number, and Inners do the same. You will be close enough to get to the alignment shop. Regarding the camber, try to put the camber bolts close to where you saw them and made the drawing from the beginning, then Tighten them up. you will make it to the alignment shop. I found on 99 percent of mopars, when you turn each torsion bar bolt up about 34 -36 full turns, your height is close, and You will get to the alignment shop. I found the easy way to get close is , to be able to get two fingers between the new A' frame bumper and the body, close enough to get going. Then tighten up the big nut on the lower A' frame, not before. This allows the bushing to turn as the tension goes up, rather than putting tension prematurely on the new bushing.( Old trick from a mopar front end guy that passed away 30 years ago) I left out things you can figure out, re-attach sway bar, shocks, brakes etc, I hope this simplifies what your looking at, so it doesn't seem so Intimidating. I've done at least 100 of these over 35 years, and it was a learning experience every time. I'm sure someone else will be able to give even more tips to making the job easier. Chryslers are easier than darts and B bodies, as you have a lot more room to work!

I got my last C body Kit from PST, and the lower ball joints were Included. they are a very good company as well.
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Wow thanks a million for taking the time to spell it out to me. This is exactly the help I need. I have already cut and posted your info in my suspension folder for reference in the shop. I love this forum!!!!!:eek:ccasion14:
 
commando1 said:
Parts list, tool requirements, step by step procedure, how can anything go wrong? LOL
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Exactly Stan everything always goes just as planned :no:. The great thing is when something does go wrong you guys are able to bail me out and get me back on track.
 
I rebuilt mine at home. The only thing I had a shop do was the upper control arm bushings, and lower control arm bushings. They required a press. As long as you have all the parts its an easy days job. 6-8 Hours total.
 
saylor said:
ok thats it im ordering a front end kit today. lets do this.
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I am ready to place my order today too. I have located everything I need, still up in the air on my sway bar bushings and torsion bar boots.
 
Last edited:
aight i just ordered my kit like 5 minutes ago. $446.00 out the door free ship. I got idler arm, adjustable cam bolts, t-r sleeves, and inner t-r ends thrown in + the $259.00 pkg.

p s t doesnt have any discount codes running right now :/ . . . trust me i tried :)

i told them to come here and put another code up.

- saylor
 
saylor said:
aight i just ordered my kit like 5 minutes ago. $446.00 out the door free ship. I got idler arm, adjustable cam bolts, t-r sleeves, and inner t-r ends thrown in + the $259.00 pkg.

p s t doesnt have any discount codes running right now :/ . . . trust me i tried :)

i told them to come here and put another code up.

- saylor
Click to expand...

Check out the first post on this site. They give FCBO members a 10% discount. They honored the post when I placed my order, but the guy had to verify didn't know about it at first.
 
Last edited:
Call'em back.......

PST said:
The Forum Member’s Discount:
· Forum member will receive 10% off any order over $200 dollars or more
· ORDERS BY PHONE: You will need to ask the salesman for the discount and say that you are a member of C Bodies Only. You will also need to give the sales person your USERNAME on the forum. (we will verify that you are a member)
· ORDERS BY INTERNET: Placing your order by internet you will have to put in the comment section of your order the forum name and your USERNAME. (we will verify that you are a member) The Discount will be applied when order is processed.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
ok i owe yall hot wings and beers.

i called P S T and explained everything, and they took the % off on the spot. No problemo.

Thats some real good guys over there so far - they talked to me about my car and gave me some parts advice before i ordered, and, so far so good.
 
saylor said:
ok i owe yall hot wings and beers.

i called P S T and explained everything, and they took the % off on the spot. No problemo.

Thats some real good guys over there so far - they talked to me about my car and gave me some parts advice before i ordered, and, so far so good.
Click to expand...

I am glad it worked out for you:eek:ccasion14:
 
saylor said:
aight i just ordered my kit like 5 minutes ago. $446.00 out the door free ship. I got idler arm, adjustable cam bolts, t-r sleeves, and inner t-r ends thrown in + the $259.00 pkg.

p s t doesnt have any discount codes running right now :/ . . . trust me i tried :)

i told them to come here and put another code up.

- saylor
Click to expand...


But we do offer a C body members discount on orders over $200 if that helps.

Thanks
James

Sorry I jumped the gun and didn't read the additional post.
 
ya hell ya. +1 for P S T. we love our land barges! thanks for keeping parts for these in stock and keeping us on the road.
- saylor
 
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