Remove ball joint?

Seems like the front bearing hits the max depth on the spindle before I can tighten it down all the way.
 
Something is missing...

Rear bearing and race in place?
Front bearing and race?
Keyed washer under nut?
 
You might want to check to see that the bearing race has not spun in the hub.
 
Hmm is this the right rotor for this setup? I ask because you also had an issue with the dust shield as well. Two sets of bearings in each rotor.
 
The inner bearing should bottom out against the shoulder on the spindle. Its ID should match the straight part of the spindle (inner thicker cylinder). At that point, I am guessing the outer bearing cone should just touch the outer shoulder (where taper starts), since otherwise its rollers wouldn't be tight. It seems that is handled by the parts dimensions. According to the schematic, the dust shield is also important to keep brake dust away from the seal, so don't toss it. Disk brakes were rare in the slab years (my 1965 has drums), and used a bolt-on rotor (like Kelsey-Hayes in A-bodies and Mustangs). I hope your hub isn't ruined (race spun), since it would be very hard to source another. 1970's cars used an integral rotor-hub (at least in A-body), so you get a new hub with every rotor. Since parts interfered, some part is wrong or damaged.
 
Me too, I cheated though, I had my Mech do my uppers and lowers while I was on vacation.. can’t wait to get home today and drive her..
 
Back
Top